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Hello from Finland 🇫🇮


Osku

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I can not use the back side as it is blue lether as are the sides.

I could make the side cushins from lether too. Might be a bit much and then might be bether to go with complet lether interior and that is an option I'm considering. That would be easy but not orginal to this individual car, but totaly in line of the product line.

I will look into that with Ford, that could work.

But the perfect solution would be to buy the fabric from someone whos interior is beyond hope and contribute in the costs for new interior materials and get my interior fixed in the prosess.

 

Edited by Osku
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  • 2 months later...

My lock cylinder on the pasanger side desided today to drop into the handle, is this  typical issue on these locks and how do I remedy it?
First of all how do I dismantle the doorcards to se what has happened?

IMG_20190923_150930.jpg

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Door cards are really easy. Few screws at the bottom and lift off. I can’t remember if you have to remove the interior door latch trim, but if you do it is just a screw. 

As regards the handles - yes it is common, in fact I sold a couple of spares with it when I sold it, but as the handles are getting a bit brittle it is common to resin back on the holder for the locks. Lotus bits are probably the best place if you need a new handle. 

Blessed with the competence to be a slave to the incapable.

Currently without a Lotus, Evora 400 Hethel Edition in Racing Green with Red leather and 2010 Evora N/A in Laser Blue and 1983 Lotus Excel LC Narrow body in Ice Blue all sadly gone.

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Thanks mates I will try that one, I had a bit of bad luck with an other car that was stolen and recoverd so the time I had planed for this repair went to speaking with the insurace comppany and filling forms. To morrow the car will be driven to a car museum for excibition for the wintter so I will get back to this problem in spring when I get it back from the museum.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Today I drove this back from the museum and the first 200km this sommer went fine. Tomorrow I have an appointment with an exhaust shop to fix the exhaust properly. Last sommer I changed the center mufler for something I could get fast then but it was slightly to thick so I brought my old stainles mufler to the shop so that they can open it and put new woll in it as it had become totaly empthy. otherwise it was solid it just did only howl but not mufle.

Edited by Osku
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How do you suggest I jackup the car tha safest way with a two pilar lift at the exhaust garage?
I know the seller lifted it directly from the grp but I also read horror storys about that going wrong.
I have my self lifted the car up only with a floorjack from suspension components.

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So are the so called jacking points smart to use or should I just put big pieces of wood under them before using or beside it?

I can't most likely reach any solid metal component with the two pilar jack.
I will lift the car up at 12:00 local time that is 10:00 UK time so any information is mostly usefull before that

Edited by Osku
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Here the finished result. The old center mufler is back with some new woll and the rest was cleaned and re-aligned to perfection.

The set souds good now, just about right, not too loud but still sporty.

IMG_20200504_144426.jpg

Edited by Osku
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I fixed the door lock yesterday and today I monted the doorcard back. Someone had made the hole for the doorcard screw oblong and 6mm with nothing to attachtoo so I printed a custom split plug for the hole that was there and now the card is back and solid. The door lock it self had the insert for the lock pulled out. So I glued it back to place with backingsoda and superglue. I also strengthened one of the mounting bolts that seemd to be on the way out.

IMG_20200505_202915.jpg

IMG_20200506_081930.jpg

IMG_20200506_081925.jpg

Edited by Osku
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Neat job. Seems these 3D printers can be very useful. I have an early series 1 Elite. The door caps have a couple of fiddly thin plastic caps to finish off that get lost or broken in no time. I think 3D printing could be the only solution to replace these. 

Tony 

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They are pretty usefull and they get better all the time.

The important thing to concidere is what materials can be printed.

The cheapest printers can only handle PLA and that in basic form is way to low in melting temperature just around 60°C luckily you can use HTPLA even on the cheap machines and thus come upto 80°C but I still would recomend machines that can handle a broad wariety of materials.

I have printed a lot of parts for my cars and its often a wery good solution.

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You're doing a fine job on that Osku - really special that there's only 3 in Finland - and great that you found the original owner to 👍

What did you do about the drivers seat material in the end?

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Hi,

The jack points had metal cups in situ when it left my ownership. They were oblong about an inch wide and 2 inches long. Basically a metal version of the enclosed image.

They were on their way out at the time so have probably rusted away entirely by now. 

They were riveted in place approximately in the centre of where the wooden blocks are placed in the above photos. If you get under the car I suspect you will see 2 holes in each corner where the rivets were and will show you where the jack points should be. 

I tended to use the front suspension and on the rear the centre bracket of the lower wishbone.

jack point.jpg

Blessed with the competence to be a slave to the incapable.

Currently without a Lotus, Evora 400 Hethel Edition in Racing Green with Red leather and 2010 Evora N/A in Laser Blue and 1983 Lotus Excel LC Narrow body in Ice Blue all sadly gone.

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Nothing yet on the seat material, havent found anything close enough.

So most likely I will dismantel both front seats from the stiches. After that one I will put a support fabric on the backside and sew along the velour lines to get it strong and after that one I swap the polesters from left to right so that the more weared areas get to the cebter of the car. That should by me some years. But obviously it would be easyer to just change the fabric on the weared areas if I only could find some fabric to match.

The on the way out jacking pads were there but as they were on the way out they did not increase my trust in the orginal jacking points but with the planks it seemd to work fine.

Edited by Osku
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On 12/05/2020 at 10:32, Osku said:

Hi I got a new set of wheels and tires under the car and here is a few pictures. Sadly one of the wheels was slightly crocked so I'm refurbisching a new one for that corner but it rund with the crocked one for now. I took 205-60-14 front and 225-60-14 back to get the appearance a bit more balanced. I'm pleased with how it looks.

 

Miserable whatsit - when I sold it I gave the last owner 5 spare wheels with it along with parts and workshop manuals and an estate car boot full of spares. Shame he didn't give you them as well. Nice to see it getting some proper care nonetheless. The foglights are new.

Blessed with the competence to be a slave to the incapable.

Currently without a Lotus, Evora 400 Hethel Edition in Racing Green with Red leather and 2010 Evora N/A in Laser Blue and 1983 Lotus Excel LC Narrow body in Ice Blue all sadly gone.

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Propqbly installed by one of the prvious owners in Finland. The law here requires you to have some lights as indicator that your moving so on a popup headlight car you need something like that to legaly drive with the lamps down. The parking lights wont do by the law.

They are period correct so they can stay, atleast for now. I'm not that keen on the color but there is more urgent issues like you properly noticed.

 

The Spareparts I did not get neither did I get wheels but the manuals I got.

 

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I have Protech shocks In my esprit. I had to replace the other one In the back 2 years ago because it was leaking. When I ordered the new ones the prize had gone up and now they are manufactured on China🙁

 

"Older I get, faster I was"

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