Turbo options

[lewtus]

I agree with Marcus it is a matter of choice. i opted for the biggest compressor with stock T3 housing. The newer compressor would make the car preform better at all ranges so for that reason alone i would upgrade. My upgrade is from 2000 and changes have been made since then. Whilst inthe shop I will change the compressor if better one exists...it will not gain anymore peak power. My car is RWHP 336 and TQ 358 at stock boost levels right now.

I am quite happy with the performance but I only care about track use for my x180R. I use the Red Race chip, variable cam pulley, lightened flywheel, ceramic coated exhaust, water injection, and BOV...and that make stha car have better low end response than stock even though the turbo is much bigger. Travis posted a pic of my setup sans turbo ion this site which is in for repair....wastgate flap shaft cracked and fell off. No boost now!

Lew

[rydning]

http://www.mjmturbos.com/LotusTurbolicious.htm

I gess you all get the most for the buck if you buy from MJM.

[f1karting]

For anyone who is interested, here is the data from my 85 S3T on 45DHLA (short stacks) using stock T3-40. As you can see, great bottom and mid torque, but the T3-40 runs out of steam by 6000rpm. If you look at a compressor map for the T3-40 you will see why, because at MAF>18 the CE goes waaaay down. Advantage with this setup is I have almost instant throttle repsonse.. but the engine goes flat over 5500rpm. Notice how much heat is generated in the MAT (Inlet Manifold Air Temp) column.. thats why we need charge cooling because anything over 160-170 is bad news.

A T3-60 with a stg 3 turbine would give shit loads more top end range but I bet lag would increase a little as well.

Here are some estimates on the results of using a T3-super60 in place of the T3-40

Jan

Edited December 4, 2007 by f1karting

[MGFCrasher]

Ok,

I know its been discussed to death ,but having just been quoted best part of

[chandrab]

Yes it's the same and it's available from RockAuto.com for ~$140.00

I too am concerned about the availability of this switch.

Someone on the Yahoo Esprit group has crossed this with a Jeep part.

-Chandra

91SE

Ok,

I know its been discussed to death ,but having just been quoted best part of

[MGFCrasher]

Thanks for that.

I have emailed them to see how long it takes carriage wise and whether they actually have one in stock.

Have you fitted thi switch to your car to replace the gey one?

Rich

[neal]

I need to MOT the s4 and apparently wacking the switch with a wheel brace to get it working is not acceptable.

What about connecting the ABS warning light to the check engine light? So it will come on when the turn on the ignition but go out once the engine fires

From what I'm heard about the AC Delco ABS, not having it working may well be a good thing...

[Bibs]

Is this the part number?

B082J6137S

I may be able to get you one if you're quick, it's about

[MGFCrasher]

Hi Bibs,

YES it is , I can paypal now ,send gold ..anything ,can you get me one.Need to drive the car .Blah Blah.

How fast?

Rich

Is this the part number?

B082J6137S

I may be able to get you one if you're quick, it's about

[lemoncurd]

What about connecting the ABS warning light to the check engine light? So it will come on when the turn on the ignition but go out once the engine fires

From what I'm heard about the AC Delco ABS, not having it working may well be a good thing...

Problem is that if it is anything like the issue I had, eventually the ABS unit gives up completely. Not normally and problem but when, like with the delco, it is also providing all the power assist for the braking things can get a bit more interesting!

Edited December 4, 2007 by lemoncurd

[MGFCrasher]

Thats exactly what it feels like. I am using both feet to stop and eventually it just locks the front wheel.

PNM replaced the accumulator and pump though a month or so ago for the PO so I am sure its just the switch now,having spoken to Pete its just a case of getting one.

Any luck Bibs????

[Bibs]

I'm just waiting for a reply to my email, I'll let you know as soon as I hear back matey

ETA: Sorted. Will be at your local dealers in a couple of days

[MGFCrasher]

Excellent,You are the Boss.

I have pm'd you wioth my numbers and a choice of dealers although one I dont know.Just let me know which one you send it to .

Rich

Thats exactly what it feels like. I am using both feet to stop and eventually it just locks the front wheel.

PNM replaced the accumulator and pump though a month or so ago for the PO so I am sure its just the switch now,having spoken to Pete its just a case of getting one.

Any luck Bibs????

[Bibs]

My apologies dude, I didn't 'iirc' on the price, it's

[MGFCrasher]

Hi Bibs,

Apparently it will be at Strattons tomorrow,Whether thats the one I enquired about or the one you did I'm not sure .I am just waiting for Dusty to call back.

Who knows I may have two.

Either way that and when my pads arrive I'll have an MOTable car .

A big thanks for all your help.

This switch is a serious problem now though as JAE GM Supplies and Rock auto are out in the states and don't know when they will get more.

It must also be a jeep part...anyone own a 90's jeep ???

Rich

Just had a call from Strattons and its on its way for tomorrow.

That probably leaves 1 left....Get in quick!

Rich

S4 (NOT 350 )

[Paul93Lotus]

Hi Bibs,

This switch is a serious problem now though as JAE GM Supplies and Rock auto are out in the states and don't know when they will get more.

It must also be a jeep part...anyone own a 90's jeep ???

Rich

Any idea which Jeep model? Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Wrangler?

Do you have any sort of pulsation in your pedal? With mine, I will be coming to a stop, and sometimes the pedal will drop down maybe a 1/4 inch under application, and then "return" that 1/4 inch. Sometimes this makes for a non linear stop as the pedal effort has to be increased for a second. I have a new switch and accumulator and pump...so I am starting to think it is in the actual master cylinder. A few have said that the unit requires a "Tech 1" bleed procedure to cure this.

Edited December 4, 2007 by Paul93Lotus

[lotus4s]

Any idea which Jeep model? Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Wrangler?

Do you have any sort of pulsation in your pedal? With mine, I will be coming to a stop, and sometimes the pedal will drop down maybe a 1/4 inch under application, and then "return" that 1/4 inch. Sometimes this makes for a non linear stop as the pedal effort has to be increased for a second. I have a new switch and accumulator and pump...so I am starting to think it is in the actual master cylinder. A few have said that the unit requires a "Tech 1" bleed procedure to cure this.

Paul,

Have you tried bleeding the system as per the manual? I had the same issue (among others) but after installing a new switch and accumulator and extensive bleeding, it no longer pulses. The brakes actually feel better than they ever have.

Also, I am now running with the abs disabled and really like the feel and performance of the braking system. The only caveat is if you're not careful it is definitely possible and likely to lock up the rear wheels in a panic stop and the rear tries to come around very quickly. You just have to remember to use the brakes like we did in the old days before the advent of abs. I do feel like the braking ability is better without the abs...

[Paul93Lotus]

Paul,

Have you tried bleeding the system as per the manual? I had the same issue (among others) but after installing a new switch and accumulator and extensive bleeding, it no longer pulses. The brakes actually feel better than they ever have.

Also, I am now running with the abs disabled and really like the feel and performance of the braking system. The only caveat is if you're not careful it is definitely possible and likely to lock up the rear wheels in a panic stop and the rear tries to come around very quickly. You just have to remember to use the brakes like we did in the old days before the advent of abs. I do feel like the braking ability is better without the abs...

I bled the whole system with a hand held vacuum pump for the fronts, but maybe it didn't work properly...followed exactly as the manual said for the rear... My system was black when I bought the car...went through a half gallon of fluid when I bled it out. The stuff was nasty....I am just hoping it did not cause permanent damage to the master cylinder's seals. I obtained two of the Kent-Moore tool that is used to allow pressure bleeding through the Delco master cylinder reservoir, so I was going to try that first before resorting to paying a specilaist with the Tech 1 tool. Pressure bleeding is the only way to be sure the bubbles are gone...vacuum sometimes won't pull all of them out.

I will likely sell the extra I have on the board here eventually. Would likely make bleeding a cinch.

Edited December 4, 2007 by Paul93Lotus

[MGFCrasher]

Hi,

Its difficult for me to be constructive here as I went straight from Guigaro's to a Sport 350.!

The sport 350 with Yellow stuff pads in was like a race car for brakes.You would go through the windscreen from 120mph on a dry road ......

The S4 I have came with a pedal that seemed to go 3/4 the way down and required huge force just to begin to slow the car down.No pulsating just a wooden pedal that felt like there was not much braking going on !!

Having hit the switch with the wheel brace the pump kicks in and the pedal pressure is restored but I must admit that I havent driven it since as it was too dangerous. You could stop but the distance was large and eventually the left front wheel would lock.

Now the car has just had all the parts apart from the switch replaced so I am hoping this is the cure.The mastercylinder seems ok and doesnt leak so I hope once I have a new switch it will be ok.

It sounds like the whole system is pants even when it works properly!

Heres hoping ,especially at nearly

[fmxa]

Original post from turboesprit - nothing to do with me, another Paul!

Well, here's the solution:

Go to your local brake repair center which deals with

Jeep/Chrysler vehicles. ask them where they send out their BENDIX 10

systems to be rebuilt. (Bendix 10 is a system that's almost identical

in function to the Lotus's brake system used from 1990 to 1995 in all

Chrysler minivan, New Yorker, Fifth Avenue, etc..., and Jeep's sedans)

The main similarity is that both use a "DUAL FUNCTION PRESSURE

SWITCH" This switch runs between the Brake Fluid Pump Motor and

ground. When the pressure drops below 1800 psi, it connects ground

and thus you have pump motor action. The dual function is that if it

drops further to 1600 psi, it connects a different circuit which turns

on your dash brake warning light.

You can then send your pressure switch to them and they will give you

a matched new switch for around $125.00 They can also replace the

hydrogen ball, or other hard to find items easily as well. The shop I

called in Los Angeles had tons of parts, also if you're really on a

budget, they sell just plain used ones for around $50.

Hope this encourages you guys!

Feel free to give me a call if you have any questions! (951)206-9156

Take care,

Paul Wendling

1994 S4

1985 TE

Edited December 4, 2007 by fmxa

[doct93]

I do have a spare (black) switch that I'm hoarding...... having bought one in a fit of misdiagnosis!

I could always lend it to you for diagnostic purposes, as long as I got it back! At least then you'd know if you definitely needed one at

[MGFCrasher]

Hi Tim,

Thats what makes this forum ,offers like that.

I am actually picking up the new switch from Strattons tomorrow and as all the other parts have been replaced,with the fact that if you tap the switch it springs the pump into life means I am pretty sure.

The P.O agreed to pay for the MOT costs as part of the deal so I have done my best ,checking the states everywhere to get a cheaper one and I can't so it will have to be

[MGFCrasher]

Picked it up today.Its the black switch though,no grey ones left on the planet apparently.

I am told that the reason they are so expensive is that Lotus are having to buy complete systems just to get the switch.I don't know ,but its always great to see my friends at Strattons and my daughter got a Lotus Teddy bear as well so a good day out, all told.

Cheer s for helping Bibs.

Rich

[Bibs]

In conclusion...

Despite requests for information from WC Engineering and PUK about their offered products none has been forthcoming. I've been waiting over 5 weeks for a chased and promised phone call from Turbo Technics and nothing from them since late October.

I work in sales, in fact I own a company that is a sales company and I'd never treat my customers like this by ignoring them and if I did, I wouldn't expect to hear kind words from them or have their business in the future.

I am buying a brand new stock turbo from Lotus. It's price is more expensive than all of the other options however cost was never an issue, but I know it's a solid unit, reliable and tested by Lotus for my car and I'll have it in the next day or so and after waiting 6 weeks since the last unit's failure (after 18 years!) I can drive my car again.

[jfitz981]

Hey Bibs,

I completely agree with your choice. I too was anxious to hear about the turbos but have been very disappointed with this thread. You went with a solid, proven choice.

Jason