Paul93Lotus

Yes, I know - thank you. It was intentional - more directed to MrDangerUS (US) (post above mine) who is still active to see if the thermostat he used ten years ago worked out for him or if it gave him problems. If I find his or the one I have on order does work I will post in cross reference area. I have had two of the Wahler thermostats give me trouble so looking for a more modern replacement and if the one I ordered is higher flow and clears the thermostat upper housing, it could resolve the tendency of the "unique to Lotus" thermostat to run in the high temp range. If you look at my posting history I have contributed a lot to the cross-reference posts in the past and have typically posted there.

For the Stant 13398 Thermostat, the following cars were listed under their catalog: 1982-1984 Jaguar Vanden Plas 1982 Jaguar XJ6 1994-1995 Jaguar XJ12 1994-1995 Jaguar XJS v12 1985 Jaguar XJS all 1972-1978 Mazda RX3 1974-1978 Mazda RX4 1979-1988 Mazda RX7 1971-1973 Triumph Stag 1975-1981 Triumph TR7 These are all classified as Reverse Poppet Now the MotoRad thermostat No. 2033180 is a high flow thermostat made of stainless steel. I measured my thermostat I had in my S4s previously (a JAE one made by Wahler that appears to be made of brass and copper), and it has the same bypass flange diameter of 1.14 in., the same sealing flange dia of 2.12", and 1.27" bypass length from sealing flange to bypass flange. This thermostat cross references to the Mazda RX-7 and Jags, and claims 50% better water flow due to larger openings and also has the jiggle valve. https://motorad.com/motorad-catalog/parts-locator/part/?pid=2033-180 I can't seem to find the height from the sealing flange upwards and the Lotus upper thermostat housing is constricted in that regard, with a low ceiling due to having the timing belt in the way, but if there is not any obstruction and it fits underneath, I would assume this will lead to quicker warm-up and better coolant stability because more coolant is carrying heat away at the radiator once the thermostat opens. I ordered it today as what I saw with my old Wahler opening very slowly at over 200 on the stove left me concerned. I'll report back if it can clear the thermostat cover pipe.

John, Has that Stant thermostat given you any problems while you have had your car?- I like that it is made of stainless steel. Motorad makes a similar one that if it fails, it opens in the full open position, which would avert the radiator being cut off from the cooling process - checking dimensions on that one. Thanks Paul.

Change the thermostat - cheap safety. And agree with the overide - just the anxiety of a potential traffic overheat make a drive less fun. It will one less thing to worry about and is worth the effort to wire in. Most fan companies also make temperature couplings that can be set to a turn on temp of your choosing. I can verify the old fuel issue, been there done that - never store with more than 3-4 gallons, and burn through that fuel within 6 months at most and replace. Car will run like @%%%#! with fuel older than 6 mos and EFI will try to adapt but the fuel likely loses octane rating and ethanol does not help either. Removing the tank's balance tube is not fun - fuel rushes out of it fast, so best to have at least a 3 gallon container ready for collection under the car and remove VERY slowly to control flow. Having more in your tanks will just mean more bad fuel to dispose of later - yet another problem. Fuel stabilizers can extend the storage and fuel quality decay, but they go a year at most and only if you put it in right after fueling.

For those in the United States, your local NAPA Auto Parts has a Legend 75124R with a decent warranty. Fits perfect in my S4s and fills the mounting area like it was an oem battery.

Race Ramps in the USA sell some great low profile ramps - they are plenty wide and made of some aerospace polymer. They have a texture on them similar to truck bed spray on the outside to keep them positioned/stop sliding. Esprit readily backed on to them to do a oil change. Coming from the front may be a slightly more challenging - angle of attack is really tight with the front lip. They come in two pieces so you can remove the front portion and have more room to slide underneath. At first I was hesitant about the price, but now that I have them oil changes go real quick and no drama with a jack. Wish I had bought them sooner. Also they are relatively light - so no heavy wood or metal to drag around. www.raceramps.com

Also, I looked at my V8 master - left side has "Bosch" stamped and the number 23 in a square, and just like the above it has the matching "311902" on the right side, but my digits in front of the numbers is " F C 1 B" followed by 311902. So confirmed as a Peugeot 806 - in the used part picture I verified from, it said: PEUGEOT 806 (221) 2.0 HDI (109 hp) [2001] (5 doors) The reservoir had the same connectors for a level sensor and the reservoir connection that is used as a supply line for the clutch master cylinder, but the reservoir is not square and looks smaller that the Lotus version and is different. My booster also says Bosch B359704, but the number underneath is different - its 912093. My reservoir says "Bendix" on the far end cast into the plastic and does have a number embossed on the left side : "307H99"

Just as FYI that pump was made by Wabco and it was used in 98-2002 Ford Ranger EV trucks. Can't find anything on the part number. Most all were taken back by Ford and destroyed just like the GM EV1 that were all crushed after their 2-3 year lease ran out. I found a page from the truck's service manual and a photo image matched the Lotus part drawing exactly. In the trouble shooting guide it said this pump should be replaced every 5 years / 60,000 miles so GT3 owners should know they will have to fab a replacement when theirs gives up the ghost unless a Lotus part supplier happens to have a NOS one (probably better odds winning a lottery). Basically it is unobtanium. Just wanted to let others know so they don't waste time searching for a replacement and that a used one may be on borrowed time if the donor was higher mileage.

Hello, I am in the process of determining the correct electrical connections to change my S4s DM III brake system to the EBC 430 ABS. I am missing two pages from the electrical section for the GT3 (the appropriate counterpart for this conversion as the GT3 harness is similar) and am looking for pages 11A and page 14 in the '98 M.Y Circuit Diagrams - "11A - Stop , Reverse & Fog Lamps - 4 Cyl" and "14 - Instruments, Low Fuel Level & Binnacle Ground Splice (MY98)" If anyone has those two pages it would be much appreciated!! Once I get the install completed I will document all the wiring connections and the parts used once I know all is successful. This DM III system has had my car sidelined for nearly 2 years and I need to get her back on the road. Bought the pedal box, booster, master cylinder as well as the EBC 430 with bracket and a V8 ABS wiring harness a while back, as well as a vacuum reservoir. Just need to get the wiring straight as far as splices, get a UP30 hella vacuum pump, hoses, and brake lines.

Achim, The Volvo part number you posted in your last post was for a power brake booster switch - is that number correct in that you used that to switch the vacuum pump on and off? I am finally getting off my ass to deal with this DM III problem and do the retrofit to an EBC 430 as my smog check is due in July and my car has sit from procrastination. Any part numbers you used for the switching of the vacuum pump would be helpful - I already have the vacuum reservoir. Did you just add a new brake line along the chassis to enable 4 wheel abs - was that difficult running it through the bulkhead to the backbone of the chassis? Any challenges you had while installing would be good to know. Thanks - Paul

The Fuel Door release actuators (89-03) are from Early GM cars as follows under the General Motors part number: 20597640 This particular number has the correct manual release 1988-1991 Buick Reatta 1986-1991 Buick Riviera 1986-1991 Cadillac Eldorado 1986-1991 Cadillac Seville 1986-1991 Oldsmobile Toronado

Appears that the Kelsey Hayes EBC 430 had a humble beginning in the US - I wonder if the shop manual for the Ford has a comprehensive description/troubleshooting of the system...Not identical, but same shape of solenoid housing and multi pin connector and pump - of course a different mounting bracket: Ford ABS Pump & Control Module F58Z-2C219-A Windstar w/o TCS 1995-1997.

Glad to see that you were able to make it work!. My car's delco abs gave up the ghost after my last smog check on the way home - at first I thought it was just the dyno reaction (where only the rear wheels moving triggered the abs light) but on the way home I lost my assist, Been parked since July before last. Did you encounter any issues wiring in the Kelsey Hayes system - were you able to get the abs functioning as it should?

I've been through this with my S4s - your sender is likely done. The least expensive place to find a replacement is speedycables in the UK - you'll just need the part number off of the top of the sender - they are the supplier recommended by Caerbont. Lotus will likely want $200 USD...sjsportscars likely gets their's from Speedycables.. If there is any looseness to the sender's connector it is broken. After I replaced with the new sender the gauge always read above zero-not much but was above zero and read 60 psi when cold - it never read that prior to breaking and reading zero at idle. Look for my post on the subject...