Courts Garden, Bradford on Avon

[L666]

EDIT - just found out that over the weekend when I wasn't near a PC, my Lotus SUnrise Drive album was a feature on the Webshots.com front page. *Scream!* That's two albums I've had featured to date Album is here http://community.webshots.com/album/580037959mawzVC?vhost=community

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More offerings from my noobiness with the D3100:

Been messing with Picasa filters too:

Full album here http://home-and-gard...home-and-garden I'm learning that F7.1 is quite a good setting in bright sunshine that won't overexpose the sky, but I'm STILL having a nightmare correlating aperture, shutter speed and ISO in the fully manual mode - just can't get the meaning of linking them together and what goes best with what, ie faster shutter speed = higher ISO, or smaller aperture = lower iso and faster shutter speed......AARGHHHH! None of it makes sense I'm just adjusting, snapping, and guessing

Edited August 30, 2011 by L666

[Bibs]

Very sharp images, nice colours too.

Did you read that book yet?

ISO is entirely about the sensitivity of the sensor to light. One a bright day, set it low and in low light set it high. Once it's set, forget about it but you'll get away with 400 most of the time unless it's very bright or very dark.

Next you decide if the aperture of shutter speed is more important. If it's static, aperture rules and if it's moving, shutter speed does.

Set the important one to what you want. shutter speed is a minimum of 1/focal length to eliminate shake (eg 200mm lens needs 1/200th, or a 50mm lens needs 1/50th) or fast enough to freeze the action. Aperture controls your depth of field. If you want everything in focus from your toes to the horizon, a tiny aperture of f22 does the trick. If you want a tiny depth of field with the fore and backgrounds blurred, you need the largest aperture your lens allows, my best is f1.8 on my 50mm.

Once you've set the one you want, set the other so that your meter shows a correctly exposed image. Here you can play, eg if the aperture is small and you need a shutter speed too long, you can up the ISO so it collects light quicker, giving you a shutter speed boost. Also, a tripod can help here as you can use long shutter speeds, that 1/focal length is for hand held.

Help?

[red vtec]

I don't know much about setting the Camera, My Brother is the Pro Photographer, I run the print side.

But I do know that if you set the ISO to high you will get grainey shots. I see it a lot on Church (wedding) shots where flash is not always allowed to be used in the service.

The images are nice, on the second one you are getting what is called "burnout" on the white sections i.e you are loosing the definitions in these sections and they are appearing just white. ( I look at 100's of images a week, mainly invoving a big white dress! and this happens a lot ). If you are entering Competions etc you may get marked down for that. I'm not critercising just letting you know.

All the best

Chris

[L666]

@Bibs that explains it much simpler than my book will print that out I think! @Chris yep, one of the issues I'm having is "white sky" on scenic shots, where the sky is ALWAYS overexposed and if I try to get the sky right, the rest of the pic is then too dark