advise with jacking

[jimblob]

hi all, I know where the jacking points are on the esprit and same as my last one the little metal bits that the jack locates too are missing, not really a problem as i can still jack up the sides from there. My question is can I jack from the side points with a trolley jack? and if I want to use the trolley jack what is the safest way I don't want to damage the body obviously. 

[Loose Cannon]

You can still jack from these points if you spread the load with a wooden chock, or if you have a generous saddle on your trolley. The jacking points were crappy bits of tin which have always rusted and dropped off, new ones are easy to fabricate from a bit of aluminium plate formed into a "T" section

[jimblob]

Is the immediate area around the square section where the metal T shaped piece would normally be strong enough to jack from? the reason I ask is the saddle on my jack is 114mm which is much wider than where the normal jack would sit. Or should I use a wooden block that fits the normal jacks lifting point. 

Edited July 2, 2013 by jimblob

[Bibs]

Wooden block, or you'll crack the sill and/or bottom of the body.

[s4simon]

Mine are Approx. 80mm square.

 

[jimblob]

thanks a lot guys ill make myself some blocks 

[molemot]

I'd never jack mine on the body. I always jack the front using the chassis frame vertical tubes, the ones that the radiator braces run forward from and that take the anti-roll bar bushes. I really hate the idea of jacking up anything, relying on the integrity of glass reinforced plastic with a point load. Makes me feel queasy!!

[Mysterae]

In order to refurb my front suspension I'll need the front of the car lifted for a while. I normally put jacks under the wishbones but as I'm removing them it's not an option.

 

Looking at the jacking points of the Esprit I think the only place to put jacks are on the chassis front member (correct wording?), but I'm concerned that the frame of the car won't sit on the jack's U shaped saddles correctly.

 

So I've thought of cutting a thick length of wood just the right size to clear the wishbone pivot points at both sides, shown in red in the image below:

 

 

Jack the car up on both sides at the jacking points behind front wheels (2 trolley jacks required), put jacks with the jacking beam in place under the car, slowly drop car on to the jacks/beam. Anyone see any problems with this approach?

 

I know you can get jacking beams for trolley jacks, but that would mean leaving a hydraulic jack under the car (not good) and getting a trolley jack with the jacking beam under the car in the first place would be fun (could drive on to ramps to lift the car first, if possible).

[jonwat]

I always jacked mine there, under the front chassis cross-member, with a length of wood.

 

If it's too low to get the jack under with the wood, start off without it for a few inches, when you let it back down it will sit high enough to give you clearance. 

[Mysterae]

Cheers for the feedback John, I think it'll be my new front jacking procedure. Wouldn't want to mark my new shiny wishbones

[rizla603104]

how thick would you make the wooden beam?

[Vanya]

While we're on topic - how about jacking the rear end of the car? This summer I scared the CRAP out of myself trying to get the rear wheels to clear the ground - the rear was jacked so high that the front valance was almost touching the ground. It looked terrifying, especially considering the only thing stopping it rolling off were two bricks. Nothing I wanna repeat in retrospect. Pic below!

 

When I lay the car up for winter I jack up the front first using the side points on the body, take off front wheels, place axle stands under the wishbones. Then the front is quite high so the relative tilt between back and front isnt too bad by the time the rear tires clear the floor.

 

But what if I just wanna remove a rear wheel (or both) for whatever reason - do I have to put the entire front up on axle stands or is there a safer alternative to what I originally did? (One alternative was jacking off the point where the damper meets the hub carrier but space is a bit too tight with the wheels on....

Edited September 14, 2013 by Vanya

[mr.oogieboogie]

Wooden block under the hoop jack the entire rear of the car up then put in x2 stands. Front will almost touch the floor. I never jack it up from the jacking points on the sills since the jack failed on me a couple of years ago. I always use a trolly jack

[jonwat]

how thick would you make the wooden beam?

A length of 2 by 1 should be fine, you're only protecting the bottom of the chassis from the jack.