Steering Rack Play & Refurbished UJs

[Vanya]

Travis,

 

I could replace the nyloc sure - but even a used nyloc with threadlock should suffice?:S

 

I don't have a spacer tube - never did. I figured it was just so technicians could fit the lower UJ at an appropriate height without thinking too much of it at the workshop. Can't imagine a bit of rubber hose having much impact on the steering...

 

The only place in which my installation differs from the service notes is that the lower UJ to the rack shaft is not "flush" with the UJ - it protrudes slightly. This was due to the inability to mount the upper half of the UJ further up the intermediate shaft (crappy damaged splines on the second hand refurbed intermediate shaft - thus the intermediate shaft is essentially flush with the upper half of the lower UJ if that makes sense.

 

In any case I can't imagine this slight geometrical discrepancy being too big of an issue.

 

The track rod ends are new - got 'em last year. The play is visible at the lower UJ when getting someone to wiggle in the area of play at the wheel.

 

Right now after the thread lock its just odd - when in straight ahead position, the steering is tight. But a slight turn of the wheel you can feel the play. It's small, but it pisses me off. Especially since I went and threw out everything JUST to get the tight steering a supercar should have.

 

My next Esprit will have PAS. I hate PAS, but by god if the parts are this fickle maybe it's for the best.

 

On the flipside, it's not as bad as the play before which was 1 cm at the steering wheel. I'm seriously considering CAD:ing up the UJ's and having them machined out of steel. Or just something that will never wear.

 

Mike -

 

I can imagine a lot of folks out there are suffering the same thing. But I still think we should have a zero tolerance for play at the wheel in a supercar. With the bolt tightened for the first few miles it's just orgasmic - the level of perceived stability adds that little extra. As soon as the play arises, the car won't change course or anything within the play region (as mine used to before I changed the parts) but you can feel the wheels moving ever so slightly within the tiny region of play allowed to them. I'm a full blown OCD masochist and I won't stop until it's perfect.

 

On a random positive note, I discovered this weekend that my car has alloy fuel tanks that one of the 4 PO's had installed... yay!

[Vulcan Grey]

Actually the rubber spacer below the U-joint is very important!  I have found.

 

Also Nylocks nuts aren't meant to be reused, and worse yet the internal metal threads may be worn/corroded as well. If it isn't holding, then you need a new one.  The U-joint end makes a kind of spring, so you'll need a proper clamp load on that bolt, so you may need more than 40Nm.

 

If your U-joint won't stay tight after that, then it needs to be replaced.

[Vanya]

Fair enough about the reused nyloc - I can replace it. Nothing is corroded as all parts are either new or refurbished and very clean.

I don't get how a bit of rubber hose can affect the installation though? Like maybe to stop the thing moving further downwards should the nut loosen (whereby the shaft would foul the UJ at a certain angle) but other than that?

Re more than 40 Nm at the pinch bolt: I think the shop manual states something like 26 Nm which makes me suspicious.

I can try and install exactly as per the manual but ill likely have to get the splines on the intermediate shaft re machined as the refurbed part had some damage half way up - the splines were mashed with a hammer or something preventing the UJ upper half from being able to slide further up than with the shaft end just about flush with the upper UJ inner....

Does your car have the non SIR rack too?

[Vulcan Grey]

The rubber spacer sets the U-joint to an angle where it won't bind.  When I was re-installing my rack, I found that the U-joint would only install in one orientation, otherwise it would bind, which can force the U Joint apart.

[jonwat]

 but ill likely have to get the splines on the intermediate shaft re machined as the refurbed part had some damage half way up - the splines were mashed with a hammer or something preventing the UJ upper half from being able to slide further up than with the shaft end just about flush with the upper UJ inner....

 

In that case I'd definitely send the rack back to the refurbisher, that's not good enough. 

 

 

Fair enough about the reused nyloc - I can replace it. Nothing is corroded as all parts are either new or refurbished and very clean.

 

I'd change the nut & the bolt, the threads may be stretching & they only cost coppers.

 

Whenever I've had play from the splines which goes away on tightening the nut but returns after a drive I've replaced the UJ with a new one (also nut & bolt) & the problem has been fixed but as you say there's no new parts available what about giving the splines a good degreasing & then applying stud lock to them?

 

I remember my Europa Special rear wheel bearings were held in the hub with stud lock & fitting them was easy as they just dropped in but I needed a hammer & chisel to get them out again once the stud lock had cured so it could be worth a go.

 

Don't drive it until the stud lock has set, may be worth a go, what have you got to loose?  

[Vanya]

Good points the lot of them John,

 

I'm a bit peeved however that I already bought new bits and I have to keep buying until I find some that work. I'll get another UJ from SJ Sports Cars I guess but if it doesn't go away after that I'll go nuts. I can also try and refit my old original parts - perhaps the UJ's werent tightened enough (didn't have the best of tools to work with at the time, now I have two fantastic torque wrenches and toolkits...) 

 

Putting thread lock onto the steering rack shaft and UJ will cause hell when trying to remove it next time though :S 

 

I might farm this job out to a guy I know - I've just lost so much time on this particular issue. 

 

I'm chuffed that the car is in good health and driveable otherwise though. It's still a lot less play than there was before.... 

[lotus-62]

Vanya my rack had some play as well, it was the pinion shaft moving up and down , the new ball bearing had some axial play, I replaced the needle bearing and the ball bearing with 2 taper bearings to get the backlash out,(I had to machine the alu casting so the new bearings would fit)  apparently some late racks have this as standard (the ford capri uses a similar rack but with a longer pinion shaft with the more expensive taper bearings) think lotus wanted to save some money on the needle/ball bearing set up)

Edited May 6, 2014 by lotus-62

[Vanya]

Thanks for the heads up Rick - I've however visually confirmed where my play was coming from. It results in about 1 mm at the wheel which I guess I can live with - I'll maybe play around with this during my summer vacation...till then, I'ma be on the roads