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S1 Project car - part 2 - the continuation


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I can't believe there's no battery backup for the original clock because otherwise you'd have to set the time every time you switched the ignition on? With a 40Ahr battery I wouldn't have thought standby current drain would have been any problem at all.

As for when it's running I would have thought the VFD display on the original clock wouldn't have drawn any more current than the LED equivalent and VFD looks much better than LED imho. Given your alternator probably kicks out 50A+ the current for the clock is neither here nor there.

For somebody who has been looking for originality I'm surprised you have done this and if the clock was working it seems a shame to butcher it.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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The current draw from a VFD display is much higher because its esentially a cathode ray tube and its heat losses are far greater than diode displays. I believe the new clock current drain is miniscule in comparison. It will be more reliable and won't require setting for two years! Although I can understand why some people might want to keep things original, but I think theres a limit. Things like this can be a real pain! I just have anecdotal evidence for this, although guys with S3s might like to comment? I don't want to have to disconnect the battery and keep recharging the battery because of the clock when the car hasn't been driven for a while. 

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For those of you who have problems with interior body trim, S and J can make most of the parts from the header rails to the gear tunnel. They are difficult to find on the website, s phoning and asking helps if your stuck.  They made the header on my car which fitted perfectly,out of fiberglass and it was much better than the ABS plastic. They are going to make me a header with the clock aperture. I have a base for the mould but it will cost me half of what S and J are charging for materials and a weeks work, so a no brainer! 

 

 

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Here the new clock part. Its very compact and works perfectly. I cant seem to get a good picture without it distorting but this is what it looks like. Just put it together temporarily, still need to align the display but here is and idea. Looks much better in reality but my ipad camera cant photograph it!image.jpg.f4635523aa729b2d43221603137dc4image.jpg.358b1d0845825a7456af66e33d16a9

Two year backup will save a lot of headaches.

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Seat belts

this is a picture of the seat belt assembly from the Lotus manual. As you can see theres a spacer on the back of the Stalk. Without this the Stalk will squash the carpet theres also a wavy washer on the other belt fixing. Managed to get all the bits of ebay for £11.99. Heres where. 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291645854841?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

image.jpg.78eb01786064abe38c8ab2f599c5e0

image.jpg.dd63142d9244315dd900b148b4adf8

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Clock repaired! Two year battery backup, no current drain when not illuminated. Had to put a filter in front of LED to adjust brightness to approximate that of original.image.jpg.09be0254123872c12a101e33534401dimage.jpg.4e86cd036cd3d28eaa43183795b39c

Have decided to take the doors to pieces again! I'm not happy with the door seal against the quater window. Will remove the frames take the quater windows out and rebond them. A lot of work but its got to be done. Another tube of Dinitrol on the way!!!

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Just asked to a company to have the two top door finisher re-made in Stainless steel as for the original and they told me that is not an easy job, for only two units price would be 450 EURO.....:cry:   I will buy from SJ and see how they fit, I need one side only.

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Hi Giorgio,

to be fair I think the S and J finishers pretty good value but like all things Lotus you have to "make it work" as Steve at S and J would say. Its unlike any other car I have worked on. Not only does nothing fit but all the cars are slightly different as they are hand made. In addition its th only car where the manual tells you nothing about how to reassemble the majority of the car. Thats why I started this blog and I have to say its been a long process of trial,error and reasearch to get my car the way I want it. One of the most difficult jobs is getting the doors back together. After the hours spent mine work perfectly apart from the quater windows. I spent weeks getting them as they are with spacers to get the windows in the middle of the frames. There was no guidance on this and the Solbit sealant is no longer available so I used dinitrol. Thats makes the job harder than it was originally. Now I can say the glass must be adjacent to the outer frame. If not you will have a great looking door that leaks. Mine are coming to bits again! Just hope I can get the electric windows working as well as they do now. Intend to count and record the penny washer numbers and location then mark the frames. Here's the pics, good luck and anyone doing this don't give up it will work eventually! Gap at front! Would be sealed if quater window set to outer edge of frame.image.jpg.2e095604d100802ee2de0c54409275image.jpg.e5472cdf1bf930786f25cf3661d229image.jpg.2e095604d100802ee2de0c54409275can see on passenger side, setting the window in the center of the frame is a mistake. With the glass on the outer edge the finish will look better too as all the sealant will be on the inside!image.jpg.bcf380dceefac2e7f596a281c07ce3

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There is a bead on Dinitrol on the inside channel of the glass, think there are some pictures further back in the blog. Used woden supports to hold the frame whilst the glue set.

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The car periscope screen in the Spy Who Loved Me doesn't look much like the back of the clock. It looks a lot bigger? image.jpg.be6b12bab60db31342b1d820556f5f

At least the shapes similar! After all this I had a thought to not use the clock,  but instead put a screen for a reversing camera there?

The technology has caught up with 1976!

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Theres a single button on the end of two wires.  Once set the battery holds the time for two years, whether the clock is powered or not. You could conect the simple wires to the push pannel at the front or just remove the clock every two years and replace the battery or place the button somewhere else for resetting.

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Have bought a Lifeline fire extinguisher. Have to decide the optimum position for  the spray  nozzels, any ideas? Am researching the spray pattern and may contact the manufacturor.

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I have two distribution nozzles, one mounted by the oil pressure sender unit and directed to the underside of the airbox, carbs, starter and alternator area. The other mounted as a kind of 'war of the worlds'  stem to the left of the coil directed at the top of the carbs and fuel pipe unions.

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I wonder if it's worth consider putting one of the outlets in the cabin? It's very tight in the footwell And I don't think it would take much to get your legs trapped. For motor racing in some countries it's compulsory.

Hate to talk doom and gloom but worth considering. Perhaps a handheld instead?

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Like the stem idea and the airbox.  Had alook at the lifeline instalation document. The spray nozzles have a 90 degree pattern. Jon, did you only put the one pull handle in? I was considering puting one in the cab as well as the door recess?

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