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Jacques1993

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After all this time, dizzy (cap, rotor arm, condenser and points), however I suggest a replacement (appropriate for your dizzy) electronic kit. Plenty have done it and it solves a myriad of issues - not least reducing the spark/fire risk of the dizzy under the carbs. Plugs/leads/coil are all suspect as well - do one at a time so you identify the culprit.

Sounds easy but good luck - I have all this joy to come lol

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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45 minutes ago, oilmagnet477 said:

After all this time, dizzy (cap, rotor arm, condenser and points), however I suggest a replacement (appropriate for your dizzy) electronic kit. Plenty have done it and it solves a myriad of issues - not least reducing the spark/fire risk of the dizzy under the carbs. Plugs/leads/coil are all suspect as well - do one at a time so you identify the culprit.

Sounds easy but good luck - I have all this joy to come lol

Hi thanks for the advice, I forgot to mention that the car has an electronic distributor (lumenition).

what voltage should I be getting across the coil?

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Jacques,

With these cars approaching 40yeras old a small cost now could avoid a repeat of the reliant on the link above. My fuel lines, when I removed them, were very stiff and brittle also. These cars can burn very quickly.

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It runs! :happy dance:

After replacing the naff battery I got off fleabay with a decent one, and replacing the coil... It fired into life!

It warmed up nicely and seems to have decent oil pressure... So for now I'm very happy!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress has been slow, mostly down to me avoiding the outside climate at all costs! Although... today of all days I was feeling somewhat brave so I ventured outside:sofa:

My next big job is the brakes. I first checked the reservoir and it is very low so it has obviously lost fluid along the way somewhere?

First port of call were the rear drums.. (which I thought would be an easy job) :lol: With my limited knowledge of lotuses I have to say that the rear drum set up is nothing short of a nightmare. I'm guessing they configured it like so to save on the unsprung weight?

I also made a few interesting discoveries.

Being a 1978 S1 I have learnt that the chassis would not have been galvanised, so as usual there is a lot of surface rust.

569e1f0426e59_2016-01-1911.03.10.jpg.aa1

The rear diff has had a pretty bad leak. which is looking like the front seal.

569e1f012f636_2016-01-1911.03.01.jpg.3b3

569e1f06d4480_2016-01-1911.06.08.jpg.430

 

I need help with a few bit please.

I was going to replace the rear cylinders as units are cheap, but it look like a complete mission to do. So I was planning to bleed the brakes first just to establish whether they hold or not. Is there a particular method to bleeding the rear cylinders?

Also I am in need of some exhaust hangers as all of the ones on the car are finished. Where would be the best place to get them?

Many thanks.

Jacques.

 

 

Edited by Jacques1993
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1 hour ago, Jacques1993 said:

 

My next big job is the brakes. I first checked the reservoir and it is very low so it has obviously lost fluid along the way somewhere? - It might just be the reservoir to master cylinder seals - it often is....

First port of call were the rear drums.. (which I thought would be an easy job) :lol: With my limited knowledge of lotuses I have to say that the rear drum set up is nothing short of a nightmare. I'm guessing they configured it like so to save on the unsprung weight?

Yes & Yes.... total PITA of a job, many owners cut access holes to get at the handbrake adjuster and handbrake pins as coming in from below requires the patience of a saint. However, if you just want to inspect/service, it is easy enough to pop the drums off after unbolting the driveshafts. A handy tip is to replace the driveshaft bolts with hex headed items as access with the socket is a bit tight. Trick is to rotate the shaft as you go. Inspect and grease the UJ's whilst your in there as UJ's one of the recurrent service items/consumables on these cars, with wear accellerated by letting the joints get dry.

I also made a few interesting discoveries.

Being a 1978 S1 I have learnt that the chassis would not have been galvanised, so as usual there is a lot of surface rust.

Yes - galvanising started on S2. In truth, yours doesnt look too bad in the pics - seen much worse. Have a good look at the cross member above the diff, and the front suspension towers and the from ARB outriggers as these are all known crusty spots.

The rear diff has had a pretty bad leak. which is looking like the front seal.

- looks like it. Usually it comes out the sides and through your brakes. If you are thinking of swapping the cylinders for new ones, it could be probably worthwhile to swap the diff for a known good one from Lotus bits. Usually £100+ VAT ish.... (might have gone up since I bought one a few years ago).

 

I need help with a few bit please.

I was going to replace the rear cylinders as units are cheap, but it look like a complete mission to do. So I was planning to bleed the brakes first just to establish whether they hold or not. Is there a particular method to bleeding the rear cylinders?

- seperate circuits between front and rear, it took me a while to get fluid to drop into the master for the rear circuit. No real magic to the process, same as any other car.

Also I am in need of some exhaust hangers as all of the ones on the car are finished. Where would be the best place to get them?

I get mine from the local motor factors - generic rubber circular ones. super cheap - try and get a variety of sizes.

Many thanks.

Jacques.

 

 

 

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46 minutes ago, Jacques1993 said:

Thanks so much for that! 

HI Jacques

                     I've just done all eight exhaust rubber rings I got mine from sjsportscars as I was placing an order anyways and there all 42mm

cheers Paul

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  • 1 month later...

And congrats on the soon to be new arrival...!! Life changing - but in a good way.

Make sure you buy a lotus themed romper suit frpom ebay - start them young!

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