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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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Mmm that's a pain. A lot of secondary spraying to do! I painted half of the chassis! I had to clean it again, as after four days cleaning I found some grease! I really cannot recommend this POR 15 method. To get the chassis clean enough takes so much effort. Then to etch it takes ages as you have to keep it wet for about 20 minutes. You then have to give it four coats of paint. Two of rust POR15, then primer, then top coat to protect it against UV. It will have taken about 8 days of labour and is expensive,The finish from galvanising or powder coating would be superior, but this will outlast powder coat and there are no issues with damaging it . The only downside is to do it properly takes masses of effort! Powder coating has to be the easiest. Still I've nearly done it! 

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IMG_2263.thumb.JPG.c75af368740675cb602b27099579cf0d.JPGHeater Matrix removal

if your like me and find the Lotus manual unuseable thus is how you get the heater matrix unit out. Remove all pipes and vent pipes to the unit.  Remove the plastic cover that is half in the engine bay. Remove the plastic lower front that has two pipe holes. Behind this there are two nuts that hold the unit. Take these out. Move the unit over to the passenger side are the plastic scoop of the back by removing the screws. Drop the unit down to the passenger footwell. Job done!

IMG_2278.thumb.JPG.83fece5f574a9075ca1d5af5a411165a.JPG

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Chassis looks fantastic Fabian, and a very nice place to start fitting your new parts on !  :)

What structural adhesive are you using for your sills ? Have been using grip tite builders adhesive recently and you can literally stick a bodyshell to a ceiling ! 

At under 3 pounds per tube it is also very good value, I use to use pink stuff adhesive but the grip tite is far superior. 

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Chassis looks great Fabian.

@silverfrost I'm about to use this for the sills.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111681056234

Interesting that the through chassis heater pipes and gear linkage holes are swapped over compared to the S1 subframe. Unless it's your photo craziness again?

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Still got to top coat the chassis, a lot of work, wouldn't recommend it unless you have a lot of spare time. The picture shows the rust POR15. So hope it will be spot on with the final coat. It certainly will never rust in my lifetime! Neil at Thompson Body repair will be happy, as I nearly have the body ready for transport. Just the tailgate, a few bits on the doors, the windscreen and a cradle to make and it's done. Then it's off to Plymouth! We are still working on the colour, but I hope it will be the most accurate copper fire Esprit colour possible. 

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That is great news on the body Fabian.

Yes the por15 sounds like a lot of drama but if it lasts that is main thing and will be worth the extra effort. :)

Think I will stick with satin black hammerite :rolleyes:

Hope your colour match gets sorted soon chap 

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Thanks Dan. Look forward to bolting your suspension in. May have to fit the BBS wheels temporarily. Depends on how long it takes me to build the Compomotives. Need it rolling before winter!

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Don't rush the compomotive wheel build they need to not only not leak air but also shine to a blinding shine to give the best results :)

Luckily easy enough for a quick change over on the hubs side of things. Just leave your new front bearings for the alloy hubs :P

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Chassis is a thing of beauty!

Interesting yours also has 2 spare large holes on the right hand side of the V. So the fuel tank balance pipe hole has 2 extras next to it.

Nothing through those on mine. They are not even for A/C hoses as these dont go through there. Presumably empty on yours also?

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This is one of the first wet sump chassis off the production line. The front of it is the same as the S1, witha cross brace bolted on. I'm amazed there was practically no rust after 36 years! 

Thanks for all the kind comments.

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Regarding door jam, matt black paint and coach/waist continuation lines:

I was visited today by an early, 2 owner, S1 (1976/7) and it didn't have a black line in the rear of the door jam.

The leading side of the door jam, behind the hinges, was all matt black down to the sill. Not just from the door aperture down to half way.

The sills were also matt black from the door hinge back towards the rear, stopping just behind hand brake.

The present owner has had the car since it was 8 months old, and it's been like that from new.

Edited by Fridge
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Currently removing the front windscreen. It was cracked. What an awful job! Fortunately Dave had done it for m on the S1. Ive got a heap and nasty window removal tool from eBay, the wire keeps snapping! Only one blister so far and it's 2/3 out!

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I didn't have a lot of luck with the cheese wire - resorted to a strong sharp kitchen knife inside the car for some of it. The old bonding adhesive was rock hard.  

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5 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Interesting! So the next question is what does the black paint look like in the wiper area under the bonnet?

 

As normal. Satin black along the top of the scuttle under the windscreen, then around the air intake/plenum.

The original and unused spare Dunlop SP Sport tyre is something else! Tread like a tractors.

I'll be buying the rears for my S1 as Dunlop release theirs soon. Hopefully the 205/60 14 also in the future.

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On mine, the black under the bonnet (in the vent aperture) is the same as the black on the underside of the rear hatch and many other parts.  Its an odd finish that's neither matt, satin or gloss! (but more matt than satin) - possibly due to 30 years of oxidisation?   Mines also never been painted and has black coachlines painted in the door shut panel         

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