Fridge

"Where there is a will there is a way" - Don Logan (Ben Kingsley), Sexy Beast. I built my car on a driveway and in a single garage. I fitted the pump easily. The problem if away from the garage is carrying the right spanners and stuff to blank off the fuel lines momentarily. Not something I'd want to do, but could allow a journey to continue if away for an extended period.

It looks like a good, solid fuel pump. A few folk had issues with the standard SU pump after a faulty manufacturing batch. I've considered carrying a spare just in case.

I can't remember. I'd have to have a think. I seem to remember it was relatively trivial, and may involve an erroneous earth. It was obvious when I was looking at it. It may be the additional relays in the S2+ wiring that switch and provide power to the headlamps. [ADDED] I can't post photos on here, but check the earthing of those two headlamp relays, one is missing I seem to remember. Pretty obvious when you spot it, and anyone who knows how a relay works wouldn't wire one without an earth. It is correct in the original B&W wiring diagram in the Lotus WSM. The diagram originates from the US Lotus Talk forum, or Bill Galbraith's resource on HolyCows, which is who sent it to me years ago.

Pity you're so far away, I was in the same position as you and struggled to find someone who could do the tricky things and add some new wiring upgrades. In the end I found that things were not that complicated and with a rudimentary understanding of basic auto-electrics and soldering/crimping practise as applicable I was able to do the work myself. What areas are causing you problems? I think there's a minor error in that diagram, but obvious when you spot it.

Yes, I've done similar, but using original style relays behind the millboard finishers adjacent to the lefthand pod motor. They take direct power in dedicated +12V and earth via junction boxes via an additional fuse box next to the original two in the glovebox. I wasn't sure high amp circuits would benefit from dedicated "fat" earth over running it via the original earth in the loom? My electrical knowledge isn't that extensive, I just applied common sense. I could do with adding relays for the horns as per the Esprit S2 wiring.

That junction post is ideal for running clean +12V to the cooling fans, headlights and window winders via fuses. I also ran a dedicated earth from back there too, rather than earthing those items through the loom.

It's always while returning to a difficult job. Good result!

Did you try West Country Trimmers near Newton Abbott?

Yes, that's the problem with Alcantara. Even at its most thinnest it hasn't enough give to get around the negative and compound curves of the interior panels. Marcasite had just enough stretch. It's such a problem finding a suitable replacement. I think an expert trimmer taking their time and understanding the original requirements would be able to nip and tuck Alcantara to achieve a good result. The problem is that the Esprit is so uncommon, particularly the earlier series that few trimmers have anything to go on if the panels are already stripped or in a very poor condition. I took very detailed photographs of all my interior before stripping to save trim costs. I even have the old material stored for future reference. At least the JPS Commemorative edition is leather which is more easily available. Though the gold fabric is another unicorn material it seems.

Though we often doubt them during our restorations, those designers knew what they were doing 😆

Yes, it's good to strip those under dashboard items down and get them media blasted and powder coated satin black. Otherwise they rust like originally. Don't forget the pedal box and heater box (if rebuilding and not going with an Economy 7 unit). Keep chipping away. You'll need all those bits quickly once the body shell goes back on the chassis. Your binnacle should repair easily. Filling that hole made for the missile switches, or whatever.

Having only just recently trimmed my car you might want to rethink trimming the header and cant rails in the roof lining material. If you think about it, the cant rails, header (and in a green & tartan interior of an S1, the bulkhead) form a frame, which also extends down the 'A' pillars. Whereas the headlining essentially forms an inset. It is even a single piece which goes underneath the panels. Even modern car interior spaces are designed as such. Trimming those panels differently to the rest will look a bit odd.

From left to right: Air duct to binnacle Air duct to windscreen defrost in binnacle top Binnacle LHS switch gear Binnacle RHS switch gear & heater control wires

The only loom that goes anywhere near the steering column is the steering column mini loom with the block connector for the stalks and ignition barrel. The binnacle wiring routes through the holes in the upper dashboard beneath where the binnacle sits.

Well, mine works fine. But quality, Del'lorto authorised parts and original Lucas distributor with the original power curve. It's all in the detail. I never use e10 fuel in any of my cars.