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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 55 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - TLF - Totally Lotus Jump to content


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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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12 minutes ago, Fridge said:

For the same reason eBay sellers of Lotus Esprit door handles and rear lights ask ridiculous money, whereas Fiat X1/9 and Morris Marina/Allegro/TR7 parts are a fraction.

You obviously don't work in marketing Fabian! ?

Not sure i agree, in fact I have always found pretty much the opposite, sellers of the parts for the Leyland cars are dearer than SJ sells them for. And sometimes even Lotus dealers. This usually applies also to Lucas bits such as lights etc. I recently bought some front light lenses and the cheapest I could find them online for was double SJs price.

Are you going to find a TR7 door handle for £8 ?

http://www.kelsport.net/parts/product_details.asp?PartID=4891&categoryID=34&PartsectionID=62

 

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That's no good for an S1 @Andyww

I speak from experience of eBay. Folk over value stuff. There's a pair of exterior door handles for sale for £200, and have been for about 8 months. Another is front indicators. Yet you can pick them up quite cheaply for other marques and simply swap.

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8 hours ago, Fridge said:

That's no good for an S1 @Andyww

I speak from experience of eBay. Folk over value stuff. There's a pair of exterior door handles for sale for £200, and have been for about 8 months. Another is front indicators. Yet you can pick them up quite cheaply for other marques and simply swap.

Ah OK, yes S1 might be a different kettle of fish not having raided the Leyland parts books yet but using more Italian gear.

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9 hours ago, Andyww said:

As far as I know there were 2 types used on the Esprit, the parts books list an 079 and 082 prefix part number and the Land Rover is only the same as one of these types.The pipe fitting is a different thread on the other.

S3 turbo is same as LR series 2 but you need a 3/8 UNF 24 tpi Male to 7/16 UNF 20 tpi Female adaptor.  i.e. Landy cylinder is 3/8 and lotus cylinder is 7/16.   I assume the 'other' cylinder is a non-turbo model that has a completely different bell housing 

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No problem - 'My' adaptor doesn't seat at the bottom of the thread in the same way the hose does, so I just used a copper washer between the adaptor and the cylinder, both of which have a machined face.   However, I suppose there will be different adaptors out there so, you may need to use a different solution to deal with what you have got   

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That must be a record!   I paid a couple of quid more for a boxed/branded 'Bearmach' one - which seems to be a respectable manufacturer of Landy parts.   No complaints about quality so far.

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Thanks Tim, you've just got to keep going with these projects and eventually all the problems get sorted, especially with the help on here, thanks all!

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On 09/07/2017 at 09:21, Lotusfab said:

This is the nightmare or going Compomotive. My advice, buy a dry sump if you can or polish the BBS wheels. 

The Comps were not originally polished though were they? For the closest they would need to replicate the comps anodized finish. Maybe that could be achieved by lacquering them after polishing. That would also eliminate the need for constant polishing.

 

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Yep very true. The problem is so many people have polished their wheels to use restore them that has become the accepted norm.

IMG_5756.JPG.6c2c6040ef77b6f9dde26d4eba84c8a4.JPGG reaper has also helped with the carpets. We know they were edged in the same colour and were non standard trim. So the only way to match them will be from photographs, which are unreliable. 

Heres a close up of Matts fuel cap. Polished in a tiny area. Difficult to see on the picture. The original laquer is still on, just a very small area has been thinned to remove the Milky effect. You can see on the lower edge the original umolested Copper Fire!

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Seems far less Metallic looking than other colours and the stock Lotus paint code I have seen. Neil has done test cards in all of them and is busy matching this exactly so we can compare with the "off the shelf" colour code". 

This is taking a lot of work but as I said before once we have done this anyone can contact Neil and get the correct Copper Fire. Shame someone else handnt done it already!

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I have built the cradle so the body can be moved. Much simpler than my over engineered previous attempts that could have move the body and engine! This time two bits of 4x2 bolted with 10 mm coach bolts through the seat rail holes. Then a wheel on each end of each 4x2. Simple and practcle. The body doesn't weigh much. Think I will remove the wheels for transport, so it doesn't roll around! They are quick to put on with coach screws.

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Yes, those castors will help.

I did the same on my body shell. Although I used much larger ones to decrease the rolling resistance.

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