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I picked a TVS1900


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  • Gold FFM

Not trying to be too much of a dick here (and admittedly, failing), but how do you measure crank HP on a rolling road rather than calculating it?

James Martin (JayEmm)
Director of Photography & Car Enthusiast

Follow my Lotus adventure online! www.jayemm.com

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  • Gold FFM

Is that reasonably accurate? I ask only because dynos seem to be a source of endless confusion, and I am keen to understand more.

Would also like to know about getting the traction control to get out of the way, when I had the 400 on a dyno it was giving me hassle too

James Martin (JayEmm)
Director of Photography & Car Enthusiast

Follow my Lotus adventure online! www.jayemm.com

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1 minute ago, JayEmm said:

Is that reasonably accurate? I ask only because dynos seem to be a source of endless confusion, and I am keen to understand more.

Would also like to know about getting the traction control to get out of the way, when I had the 400 on a dyno it was giving me hassle too

Poor guess or bad measure take your pick, But I always like to go with the measured approach especially if I can believe the numbers and the operator

The RR in question has no interest in who is doing the work or the upgrade etc etc, I merely used it as a pre upgrade bench mark... I have used this RR for years and it is always up to date on calibrations etc etc. I have no reason to doubt the numbers but and its a big BUT,

The numbers are just that,,,, numbers we could call them BHP and torque or bananas and apples.

The only thing I am really interested in is the shape of the torque curve and the percentage increase

Install finished, awaiting road test

542.jpg

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  • Gold FFM

Of course, in these scenarios you're looking at the *difference* not the actual numbers.

I'm very keen to know how you get on. Any expectations?

James Martin (JayEmm)
Director of Photography & Car Enthusiast

Follow my Lotus adventure online! www.jayemm.com

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Kevin, you not going to trim the bodywork around the pulley area? See it removed here on others and assumed although clearance now it will be different when the engine is under load and moving around on the mounts.

 

Trevor.

I'll get around to it at some point.

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The bodywork does not need trimming, it fits and does not rub or touch under load or at any other time.

Only the SSC charge cooled package requires a small section of bodywork to be cut and a cup r style engine cover to be fitted. 

PS - who is Kevin?

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:-) sorry replied and read KAS-118's details. It's a pic of the chargecooler one I've seen then that requires a cutout.

 

Trevor.

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I'll get around to it at some point.

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Very Interested to see the results on this also.

not sure who's video it was (presumably someone on here) but I was watching a 1900 Cup chasing the KT 460 at spa.. didn't look to be much in it at all.. obviously I have no knowledge of driver ability etc etc etc

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That was our very own Gary in the white cup and at one point I think win911

Both capable drivers!!

I picked the TVS1900 kit for reasons explained earlier, but also it changes so little on the car making it very easy to reverse back to STD with nothing cut drilled or modified. 

Keeping the inlet charge cool in the first place I think must be better than heating it up and then adding weight and complexity to cool it all down again

Time will tell if I am correct or not!!!!

.

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