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Club Lotus/LDC will be there on stand Y2 (beside Maserati). I entered 7 cars but only 6 will be there due to a bereavement, so you are more than welcome to come and park on the club stand if you wish. An Esprit would be a nice addition to to the Europa, Elan, 7, Excel (x2) and Emira that are going. Hopefully see you there on the 18th.

For completeness, I have attach a scanned copy of the handbook supplement. Homelink instructions.pdf

Worked a treat on both our Evoras and on the new Emira. There are different instructions if your garage door has a rolling code, and these were detailed in the Homelink Supplement to the Evora handbook although bizarrely not included with the Emira. These (which are easier with two people) are as follows- Rolling Code Synchronisation 1 Locate the training button (programming button) on the gate or garage door opener motor head unit. The location and colour of the button will vary according to the device manufacturer. Refer also to the manufacturer's instructions. 'Training additional remote controls.' 2 Press the training button on the device, which will usually activate an associated light. Note you now have typically 30 seconds in which to initiate step 3. 3 Firmly press and then release the programmed Homelink button. Press and release the Homelink button a second time to complete the training process. Some devices may require a third press to complete the training. The gate or door opener should now recognise the Homelink signal and activate when the Homelink button is pressed. The other two Homelink buttons may now be programmed to other devices in a similar way.

I think the Ferodo part number is FRP3083H front and FRP3115H rear - at least that's what I bought and fitted.

It's certainly possible to remove and refit the grille and ductwork on the LH side after removal of just the wheel arch liner. However it is a bit of a stretch to tighten the upper inboard nut of the 4 that hold the ductwork and grille in place and if I was doing it again I would just remove the undertray. It will definitely not be possible to remove the RH grille solely by removing the wheel arch liner due to the presence of the oil cooler. I was forced to refit the ductwork and grill on the LH side after the 4 bolts that are bonded to the bumper to bolt the grill to became detached, leaving the grill and duct loose and rattling about. So be careful and don't overtighten the 4xM5 nuts that hold the grille and ductwork.

Good to see you getting some recognition for your effort.

Perhaps my wife is crazy but she specified body coloured as new since the black ones just looked like Mickey Mouse's ears sticking out of the yellow car to her.

Mine is an S and has body coloured mirror covers

I noticed that the part number was updated, and the changes did not seem to relate to the bushes or spherical joint. For the record (or anybody peering at their wishbones) both my failed ones have casting dates of March '13, although the car was manufactured in May '14.

It is very easy to check. You can do it by looking through the wheel since the outer end of the wishbone is visible above the brake disc, and the failure site is right on the nose of the spherical joint housing where the casting/moulding line is. It should also be obvious if the spherical joint has moved within the wishbone and I reckon this would occur within a few miles of the crack appearing.

Car went in for its 7 year service at 35000 miles last week and was found to have cracks in both rear upper wishbones along the bore in which the spherical joint should be a press fit. Consequently both wishbones were free to move along the spherical joints until they made contact with the retaining lugs on the hub carriers. The first picture is the left hand wishbone and the second is the right hand and clearly shows the the contact area with the hub carrier after the spherical joint has slipped due to the relaxation of the interference fit in the wishbone bore. It is also apparent in the first picture how far the joint has moved since this is the as removed from the car state, i.e. the joint has not been pressed out following wishbone removal. I suspect these both failed on the same day (last LEGS breakfast run) and within a couple of hundred miles of each other but there was no noticeable effect on the handling. We have had the car since new and it has never been tracked, never been off-road and never even been kerbed, so the failure is not due to excessive or abnormal loading. Has anybody else experienced this.

On our way back from Goodwood. I think we might have been towing the tangerine since it was stuck behind us all the way there and back.

I'm not scheduled to be working that day either, and the weather appears to be scheduled for rain, so Sharron and I will come along.

Hi Angus Good to see you on here - you just need to retire now so you can drive it more often Hopefully see you out and about in it soon Dave (& Sharron)

I replaced mine earlier this year due to the same issue since it is as cheap to buy a new set as a replacement key. The evo5 set 983/5 as listed on ebay at about £30 fit a treat - I bought them from tdcautomotive who even went and measured them for me to confirm that the bolt heads were the correct (small) diameter to fit the Lotus wheels.