dodge1979

Not all decats remove the need for the spacer, some require it still...and to be honest if you have to use exhaust paste to seal theb there is something wrong... The jointing faces shouldnt need it on this car..if it was a tube sliding into another ok..but we dont have that

Ive always said the best way to work is by doing everything while you can..people dont get their engines out often enough, and so issues build up and up and up...take it.out every 3 yrs and you can keep ontop of things..the first time is always painful...(so I said to the other half...) then each time after its a routine and if done right.first time no nasty suprises will amount...and you have perfect peace of mind...

Ill be down there in September again..but next weekend lll be in the other Riviera....

Happy days..lookin forwArd to it..

I haven't had breakfast for months...looking forward to it...

For those of us displaying over the weekend on tlf, shall we buy tickets as normal and you send out a vehicle pass or do we need tickets from you Bibs for all of it..

No you still need the pump, just loop off the solenoids if your making them redundant

Ive.only flicked through this.thread, so excuse me if ive missed the answer...someone mentioned concerns over changing the water pump at the same time..well as the cam belt is off, there are 5bolts to undo..just remove the auxiliary.cam pulley before.hand, yes if a can of.worms is.opened then it will indicate that more work should be done than just.a.belt.change...contentious owners will do the full hog..

Get a decent braided hose made that is crimped onto the original hose ends, this will surpass quality of the original, and look cool too..

Alternative answer is that if with your finger over the end as suggested it doesnt stop running, then it needs adjustment. Its a simple task..open the casing, youll see a little tiny connector attached to a threaded bolt that can be wound in and out to adjust its pressure for cut out..its been covered before but if u need any pics I can send them u as ill have my,head in the 'bay at the weekend

I have previously fitted the sj back box and sports cat (no,longer running with) my basic verdict is this. The flanges dont line up with the same supplied ebv spacer because theyre different. Basic quality. Or not... Assemble all together, but jyst finger tight on all bolts, including mounts to the frame that mounts to the gearbox, and adjust, fiddle, tighten throughout the system start to finish several times..you will get there..

Whamming something up as tight as you can isnt better than a nicely 'nipped up' bolt...the force you put in to tightening the bolt/nut isnt what holds it..the friction on the surfaces that connect hold it..the differences being an over tightened thread that will have weakened the surface grip and a correctly torqued thread that hold it in an equilibrium are the difference in a true amateur and pro..or some such stuff.... In basic terms...probably not described well :-/

I wont be going sat, but all things dependant on going ti plan sunday could be a goer..and a well needed day out too!

Valves are available from Autokool, the reciever/dryer can be found on ebay as a universal item..as for time..maybe 20-30mins, if the bolts holding your undertray on are siezed! Its really simple...as for the regas, that can be done either by a mobile guy, or a local specialist...whatever remains of gas are in the system mostly will escape when you change the valves, then the aircon specialist will vacuum drain the system to take out whats left etc..and refill.. Home top up diy kits are available commonly, but you need a fair amount of the cans to reach the right pressures from an empty system, gauges are also available too...

I had already tried to source the unit from USA previously with no result, hence using the P38 unit. Its straight fit the nut it part of the casing and this is how you tighten the unit into the pump housing. The original had a slightly narrower shoulderafter the screw thread, which allowed room for an oring to sit inside the pump body. And be aware that as Vanya states, it is NOT a bog standard o ring part. It HAS to be of EPDM material or it will just disintegrate when in contact with brake fluid and youll end up with pressurised fluid spraying all over the car...

Put bluntly what a massive rip-off. 200-300 quid,? I think not. The valves are 2-3 pounds each, two needed and the reciever dryer is nothing special. Universal ones are available for 30-40 pounds and easy to fit..and access is faultless as its in the front compartment near the brake master cylinder..then a drain and recharge will cost 40-50 pounds... As for hose change, yes its down to molecular leakage but hoses would need to be made to order and run the whole length of the car through the n/s sill, this would then entail front rad removal in most cases which would end up with very high bills if your rads are not in prime condition. (engine, chargecooler or aircon)..

You can use 124a in the r12 system. I have done so with mine with no issues..you will need to change the fill and drain valves that are located on the pipes under the engine, zip tied to the chassis, to the newer type in order to fill the system. They can be bought for a couple of pounds each from Autokool. Simply take out the valve core from the original ports and screw the new ports ontop of the original. Yes the new gas is thinner, no it doesnt last for ever. Chances are like most Esprits the gas will last the summer and ull regas next year..also make sure you replace the reciever/dryer unit in the front 'luggage' compartment too..cylindrical item with a hose in and one out and two wires attached..

Theyre on eBay too readily enough..

A copper washer can be bought at any car parts place, usually theyll have a selection box they can match a suitable sized one from, just take the new accumulator along..

With a copper sealing washer too as there is no shoulder recess to use an o-ring on to seal as per original unit.. With a copper sealing washer too as there is no shoulder recess to use an o-ring on to seal as per original unit..

I wouldnt of thought a solid tube and a diameter reducer at theturbo end would flow well. A sudden change in the diameter would create a bottle neck and mess with the flow. A gradual change.as per original is good, obviously its ribbing allows it to curve around the rear of the engine and allows essential flexibility in the pipe as the engine moves independent from the body where the airbox is attached

Either way Ade u know where to come! Might b worth having a chat and I can take alook over it on the Hilltop meet next weekend if your there

Ive previously searched for alternative suppliers for the sensors when I needed to buy one..so far no luck...all I came up with are sensors with a built on wiring loom...in terms of.GM or Delco units, however that doesnt mean theyre not out there..the pressure. Switch was originally a GE. Made item...so I may just not have all the right search parameters yet...they will be out there somewhere....if its to to with this braking system I cant let it defeat me!

Adrian, you dont need to modify the hub at all. I successfully swapped my right and left sensors over previously when chasing a fault. It wasnt the sensors but the actual pickup ring on the hub. I merely put a new slot into my sensor casing allowing me to bolt the sensor on the opposite hub.

Could just be a wiring issue then..faulty earth or connection...id investigate that before other solutions