dodge1979

:-P. Oh that made me chuckle....but valid point dave

Well folks, lets hope its as sunny as last weekend on sunday...even if its cold like today...so long as the sun shines! Has no one else signed up?! Ive tried to enlist but to no avail..

Must dos include taking your time! Donts are dropping the engine on the bodywork... But seriously though, it will depends on your facilities as to how easy it is. Ive seen pics of the engine and box taken out sideways over the rear buttress, but thats only possible if you have the hight in your workspace and a crane that will lift high enough. Because the engine sits so far forward an ordinary crane wont reach and stay balanced to lift the engine dead level...which is required. However, I modded my crane to give me enough reach to take it out over the rear of the car.it was a touching cloth moment, as there was litterally millimeters of space between the bumper and crane and engine assembly and bodywork..hence the need for a few willing hands to keep her steady.some logical preperation is required to ensure everything is disconnected prior, you dont want to be struggling with and connections while the lump is swinging happily in the air above your pride and joy! You mention your exhaust manifold..if there is nothing wrong with it dont worry, if its blowing like mine was, get it shot blasted and make sure there are no cracks or pinholes. Mine had a hole, but that was easily repaired. It all depends how far you want to go and how much to spend. Fuel tanks could be taken out...always wise, but if they need work the cost is increasing. Where abouts are you? If your not a million miles away id be happy to lend a hand..regards darren

As much as an emgine out job is a big undertaking..you could do well by it. Its perfectly within your scope with the right equipment, a few friends and patience. Youll be able to fully service the engine, new belts and water pump, change of all fluids, change any seals that are leaking...and have a poke around the bay too...make sure everything is tickety boo and good for tge next two years...although if you get someone to do this for you it will be expensive..but by your own labour a couple of hundred for fluids and gaskets....

Yes, can you sort out maybe a zip file with pics and info in detail? Would be gd to see the setup. Where abouts are you based? Darren

No definately yellow is faster...and it makes you look cool...and besides...why have a normal colour?! Although orange is tempting..ive always been yellow bias on the esprit since in was....erm....very young!

Im using the syntrax which is gl4 spec. The taf-x I couldnt get a hold of, and I went to the castrol supplier we use for our trucks. Theyre called race lubricants, which is a part of the castrol retail group.i never drive my esprit cold, although the gearbox will obviouslt be cold even wheb the engine is up to temp initially. I get no issues with gear selection. It would be nice to compare though from a driving point of view the difference between the two fluids..if any noticable difference is present. The syntrax was the fluid recomended by race technical as the closest to the taf-x you could get. There are other gl5 spec fluids out there, but that doesnt mean theyre as good Oh, additionally when I was looking earlier in the year there was some places on ebay with some stock...worth another look

Im intetested, as currently im trying to ensure my abs works all the time..although at the moment it seems to choose itself when it fancies working or not! Also, sometimes when it is working the pedal feel is acceptable, other times its scary and is better without the system!.

Come on guys...surely some more peeps can sign up?... It might be this years last chance! Unless your like me....so long as the sun shines...temperatures at zero..i shall be british and venture out?

All my bushes are poly, with exception of the arb front arm bushes...s4 so its the alloy/rubber fiesta ones...the only poly issues I had were with the front arm main pivot mount ones...lower mount. The bushes I think were too big.all my bushes came from sj, but these ones needed cutting down to fit properly..like they were a universal one..in all the combined width of these was too much to fit inside the front suspension turret..so I took a few mil...5or so off them..then they fitted fine. Otherwise, theyre fine.

I used the vht wrinkle, and used the proper extremely high temp primer too...but I repainted thecovers, chargecooler and plenum so a colour match was not an issue..good results but follow the instructions, also the use of an oven is better than using a heat gun to get the wrinkle finish.

Guys, ive dwindled the code26 b downto non working secondary injectors...now, the circuit has voltage and the resistor is sound, I have two and have even made another one..so im now thinking for sone reason the ecu is not activating the secondaries...so im after firstly, the opportunity to swap my ecu for a known working one to determin if it is faulty, and obviously buy one to sort it out if it is. But id hate to buy one then swap it to find out its not that! Make sense? So has anyone got a known non fault working s4 or even s4s one I could try or buy? Cheers , darren

28 mm if I remember, although you could just reuse the same connections, I didnt have any fouling issues..

You could do, not sure about the heat though thismight deform them. For me though, the cost of them didnt justify the change to stainless, along with the possibility of them over time loosing shape or strength..

I ordered my manifold studs off ebay..theyre nothing special cant remember the thread and pitch but can check back at some point if need be...the prices given by sj etc are an absolute con...id stick with normal ones and use either stainless aerotight nuts with coppet ease or coper coated nuts...should be aerotights though really..

Is there an oil feed to the punp, if so...what if it starts leaking? Blanking plugs are available and not expensive..also if your going the electric route, ive got the bosch unit fitted, supplied by chargecooler.co.uk I think...theyre on ebay too. The one which the car came with which had been fitted by a lotus specialist hy previous owner not long before the car was laid up, lasted about a week after my rebuild of the car...naff make..buy a good quality pump..the bosch one is a higher capacity than needed so wont struggle..

Ok boys n boys...shall we have a vote on the date then? It seems a few cant make the 16th...so shall we choose the 9th or 23rd? Selfishly im not suggesting the 2nd as im in birmingham sat night seeing alan carr and will be no doubt a little wobbly on sunday as were staying over...as much fun as it would be bouncing off the Welsh verges...oh and im in london last weekend of the month too so that doesnt get my vote... Shal we do a name and date preference list, or if either date good say any? Dodge. Any

I dont, but you can reuse those ones once the old pipe is removed, theres enough of a tail piece for the new pipe to fit too.they can be left fitted to the plenum nozzle, just cut the old pipe off in situ....

Paul, seriously ive tried both efforts firstly too...its not worth it. The boiling water softened the pipe butvit cooled too fast out of the water to be pliable and difficult to refit, resulting in an insecure fit...the heat gun even on tue coolest setting and at a distance made the pipe melt and distort.basically its really not. Worth it. Ive tried and I wouldnt like to trust it if it did. Fit back on even

In the quest for the solution to code 26 ive discounted just about everything except the resistor for the secondaries. Since day one of driving ive always thought it lacked top end power..so espritmon was used to test all the 26b possible causes of the fault code. The button to activate the injectors appears to have no effect on the car.now the resistor module had a very poor fit, ie it wasa bit loose in the block.i was only getting a reading of about 0.7 volts on the injector side of the wiring. A bit of carefull modifying to the harness to get a tight fitment resulted in :13.7volts both before the resistor and after it at the injector end.so a bad connection there but still no active secondaries. So what should I be reading at tye injectors when they are not active...im suspecting the poor connection of the resistor has caused it to malfunction allowing tue, circuit to not perform ?" ill be looking at maplins for a 330ohm resistor and see if I can repair it before forking out for anew one. Ive actually got two..both of them are reading a resistance of5.4 ohms. One is the original one, the other fitted by previous owner in an attempt to solve code26. Am I on the right track? Are these readings indicating a working or non working system! Also my spelling isnt that bad its my chunky fingers on the phone!

I also had the same thought before replacing mine...i did try it and to be honest it was more trouble than its worth...and the last thing you want is for it to pop off under pressure spraying fuel all over a very hot engine bay...you can imagine what would happen....no no no..replace!

Duh! Obviously so when you think of it!

Ive always wondered why there is that loop in the fuel line...surely it cant serve a real purpose?....

Well im off to goodwood on sunday now and as dave says pants weather is enroute. So im game for the October run, ive been to the lake before and it is good fun there! Im in. So far no plans after the first week of the month..so would tie in with alexs 3 weeks off the road too...last weekend of month is out for me..ill be in london town

Mine touches everso slightly too at the rear. Standard springs and shocks, but all suspension is new. Also my geometry has. Been set up. But as I dont drive around on full lock I dont see it a problem. Ive got standard rims and correct tyres for the s4 too. I can understand about spring sag causing it, but mine rubs in exactly the half way, so only just tye very edge of the back of the tyre when on lock, not the front though.my chassis hasnt recieved any damage at all. Im thinking either its just the nature of a hand built car...the body could be mounted fractionally out? ..or as mentioned for some reason my steering rack allows a little more turn on the lock...