dodge1979

its had accident damage on the n/s front and there is no engine and gearbox in it either

another travesty....shite body kit, and if that's not insulting enough, the asking price has just been picked out of the air..its baseless, unrealistic and will take a serious idiot to even contemplate it..but then again we all know that.. and you cant try and say in the header description its only done 380 miles...why is it some people think that if you rebuild an engine that resets the cars mileage...duh..the chassis and body will have still done the original miles..

ppffttt..as if theres EVER any sarcasm on here...

Oi...you cant go around calling people "wobbly chassis" ...its just rude

I assume what is meant that they all handle and perform very well and as said earlier on the road under absolute non extreme track type driving there isnt a great deal between all the later models. At a guess..

Except the yellows ones. ...sshhhhh. .secretly superior

I think in reality a lot of gt3's were spec'd with aircon and comfort seats anyhow so theyre not quite as stripped out as the pure version would be..

I cam still see them..

So long as there is a flexi where it leaves secure attachment of the body or chassis so it can flex en route to either master or slave it would be no different to a brake line running the body/chassis

Leave the wife at home then!

That was on se and the first s4 only, as mentioned before the 93.5 model yr onwards had the revised harness without it From the sounds of it theyre removed the bulb and not solved the issue. Which makes me wonder what else theyve bodged. From the BS they were feeding you at the start of your issues it sounds like theres a lot that needs re - investigating. ..

Welcome to the brotherhood Trev... **gives virtual hug**

I second that!

Performance...not torque was meant in that sentence. Ie general driving etc through gears and on a general outing. However, I do have more torque than a v8 anyhow out of my "peaky 4-pot"

In reality it boils down to a choice of styling. There isnt a lot between any of the models (injection 4cyl and v8) in terms of performance that on the road you'll recognise a marked difference. In reality we dont drive around doing 0-60 times so its in gear performance that becomes important. As such your torque curve is more important than 0-60, top speed and bhp figures. As the s4 and gt3 have smaller turbos than the s4s for example theyll spool slightly quicker but again unless your tracking them your not going to get chance to really push them to the limits to find out the extreme differences (safely and legally of course) Handling wise they all handle (if set up correctly and in good order) fantastic and ride adjustments/changes can be made to suit style/preferences on all of them. I agree as trev mentioned above generally the later cars are put together better along with improvement in some areas. .ie gear change and braking sysyems. .but that doesnt mean the 93 onwards s4 is old hack. As its my personal choice, ill always argue that! People will always count the braking system on the s4 and s4s against it, but perhaps this is because they dont understand it and havent experienced it working correctly. And again its a personal preference on brake feel. So really, the question is down to style. Do you prefer the clean looks of no wing on the gt3 and its interior differences over the s4 with a wing. And do you prefer the earlier or later dash layout...

Compressor tech. Theyre the official Sanden distributer/refurbishment in the uk.. which is obviously the make if compressor we have on the esprit. Theyve recently moved to Warwick from Birmingham. And guess what...was in the esprit yesterday with the heat and I was perfectly comfortable with the a/c on..2 odd months after I had it done...

Getting the correct static mechanical setup is the wise words being issued above by a couple of peeps..dont rush..slow down and spend time on each issue in turn..importantly. .sloooooow doooowwn..dont say.. thatll do for now because 'for now' is often famed for becomming 'for ever'...its a false trap..

Steve. Im having to skip through most of what gets written above cause its so off subject and confusing. Basically all your doing is guessing and playing about not actually setting it up correctly. If you remember I said a few weeks ago there is more to it than just bolting it on. Just read through the factory manual and follow the instructions! And if your really that unsure book it on a reputable dyno and get it checked over. For the cost of an hour you'll have a health check, actuator adjusted properly with correct instrumentation. Youll find out what is and isnt working correctly and be far more reassured and knowledgeable than current guesswork..

Id be getting that changed..

Vitron?

Always best to use the right seal...naughty not changing it in the first place! You have lines as punishment.... I must replace seals as a matter of good practice. Ten times please

Maybe maybe..work depending!

Start with simple solutions before jumping ahead to try and by pass things replace etc. As trev says start simple..check the relay. Oh n I only scan read it too so if ive missed that sorry..

We're they all your original followers or were any replaced with a 'good used item' to try and bring it more into spec so the shimming could be done.

As good as the product is I have to say £77 quid to upgrade the nuts to the ones it needs anyhow is expensive. I sourced them myself for a lot lot less last year..