dodge1979

Adrian, if you need to eliminate the secondary injectors whilst testing I think ive got a spare secondary relay knocking around...infact if it is the relay at fault its easy to repair...however, if you can get espritmon working, youll need to activate the relays.as.you mentioned using the program...this is the easiest way. Freescan is.not as.accurate, I think if.i remember right it lists a qdb fault for either 2 or 1 on the wrong table... I also had the same issue getting the program working with windows7... I still.do.it.seems pot luck on my laptop!

Wonderfull to see her done on time Dave, and the pics are grand..although in they dont do the quality of work justice...to see is to truely appreciate! A very well deserved congratulations is in order..

White exige in bulkington village this lunchtime!

Maybe taking the topic off on a tangent...but I also get questions regarding the engine origin...mines an s4... So people ask me "is it the toyota engine?" my primal reaction is to turn hulk...honestly...elise...esprit..elise...esprit...hmm...secondly honestly really? But I opt for the polite "no, thats the elise. The esprit has only ever had a lotus design engine...."

Groovy! The season of hoons starts! Im 100% in. Im looking forward to some convoy! Im sure itll b less cannonball than some believed last time :s

didnt know you were up this far in these here parts!

Black europa heading into stratford about midday today!

I can see you had to cut the inner race of the bearing of the hub too well you could try having them minimally machined to take out the worse, or carfully file them by hand. But as you say the alternative is new hubs...however I would say that in that case new bearings are cheaper, so if it does wear through the seal in any way it would be cheaper to replace the bearing than the hub although I wouldnt expect it to go quickly, Id say you would get a fair amount of miles out of the bearings before they wear.. So really, I wouldnt worry too much...

Comming out of Leamington this evening the only time Ive seen another Esprit in Leam, apart from mine of course!

Ive used.yoko's too and.think theyre good. It all.depends though on the.setup theyre going on. Ive only had goodyear on my esprit, so on this particular setup I couldnt comment!

Ah...dave, a stickler for a system where your more in control. From your driving experience and.background thats understandable, however the system was put in this car for a reason. We know well, and as such its a part of.its heritage we have to keep.going....there are. Lot of s4 and s4s esprits out there which probably disappoint owners with their brake performance. If one or two can make improvements, great. Like I said earlier in the thread, if important cars like the.s300 couldnt keep their original systems Working, then that would be a.dire shame indeed....

I hqd rossi on my porsche, very good on that. However, I believe that the.goodyears that were developed along with the chassis.of.the.esprit are a.fine match. Maybe if.you.start.changing suspension ajd geometry it would call.for a.different tyre, but I use.eagles as.per original. Ps sorry for all the.fullstops im on my phone and my fingers are too chunky!

If I remember correctly, my handbook talkes about the button on my key being a light...to see the keyhole with?! Although I have the factory alarm imob, I dont have a remote function...that a know of. It could be that the remote fob has been lost in the past, but both keys look.to be original and correct.one with the button and light diode, the other just plain, each havibg a seperate imob fob. Oh and mines the revised harness, December 94 build..

Excellent figures there, as close to the factory spec without it having rolled out of Hethel for a.second time! Smooth power curves there too with no peaks or troughs, a sure sign of a smooth setup and delivery...its a shame the camera has gone a bollock...another video would have gone down well! Grand work there.

My s4 has an immobiliser fitted ( old.school push the fob into it to disarm) and alarm motion sensors in the roof lining. The sensors and alarm active light are all.built into the.lining and my hand book does mention the alarm....its a late 94 revised model...

The setrab twin oil.coolers used on the later stevens cars are widely available, but I didnt manage to find an alternative source for them cheaper, or an alternative fitting unit. It wouldnt be too hard to fit a different pair of.coolers, but after youve modded or changed the.hoses, played about with the mounting of them I doubt youd see any financial gain to be honest. My rad guy got.prices.direct from setrab for them and didnt see much difference in.cost as opposed to me buying straight from, say, sj's...

Well mines due at the end of the month...so we shall see what laughable figure is plucked out of the air! When I first went to insure my 1994 s4 I was told I couldnt have a classic policy..but a 1993 model was eligible for.it. So, instead of payin the 1050 they wanted, I arguex it was the same car so why the stupid cut off date for a.classic policy..five mins later they came back to me and said ok, 370 then! Mind you im still young....32 at the time, but ive got more no claims than I could count etc...this was all with footman james...used them for years with my triumph. Always.thought.they.were very good..but well see how it goes at the end of the.month

Derek, happy to report 1793 on the pads...

Derek, interesting point. Is there a different part number dependant upon which grade yellowstuff? I bought mine from ebc direct a year and a half ago approximately, whether this would help in identification but probably not! Ill look back througg the receipts when I get a chance to seeif it sheds any light...

Looking for a set of front springs for the 95 on s4 or s4s...new or used....

Just an update for anyone interested, as I mentioned before, I believe that pad choice has a great effect on the Delco system, in its function and feel quality. Well, to put that to the test, I swapped out the front pads from EBC Yellowstuff to a cheaper standard pad, an Apec item. The yellowstuffs are a hard fade resistant pad, great for hard use and track, but I felt with this system not so good for regular and town driving. They tend to take too long to warm up and cool too quickly to keep their bite in everyday traffic. Having swapped out just the front pads to test this theory, an instant difference was felt just from moving off the drive! The pads were up to temperature quickly, and bite well confidently both in town driving and motorway use. Such a difference again in the system. Now, whilst I think the Yellostuff pads are excellent, I dont believe theyre suitable for the delco equipped cars. If it was using a traditional master cylinder and servo set up, I would expect a little more bite from cold due to the servo assistance. But because of the way this Delco system works, I believe pad choice is critical to how well the brakes feel and perform. Whilst I will be keeping the Yellowstuff's for track use, I would recomend to regular driving the use of a standard, or slightly upgraded pad if your not going to be pushing the car regularly. Now, whilst I appreciate some will not think the Apec pad to be good enough, It was at a good price to purely show whether the theory was right or not. Now, I will be looking to find a pad suitable for my own personal driving and whilst Greenstuff is an obvious choice, Im not a fan of the amount of brake dust they give out. I used them on my last Mini and within a month or so they were seriously marking the alloys! So anyone with this system, have a think about the pads your using and whether they are, as mine were, too high a grade for the use of the car. I was suprised at the difference myself...

Paul, hope it all turned out well...I remember talking about this....I used fuel hose clips, like a jubilie clip but instead of a worm drive to tighten it up, its got a small bolt to tighten the two ends of the clip up...like a clamp..im sure youll know what Im talking about! Ive had no issues with mine since fitment. Am I right in thinking your talking about the fuel line onto the injector rail connection...the one with a hexagonal shoulder on it? If your that concearned, Im sure you could get your hose crimped onto the original fitment to provide a secure fitting...

Sorry, I ended up working over the weekend! Would have liked to go though..but It was a bit quiet on the forum front for organising something, so I made the decision to work! Although Im sure Ill catch you all next sunday at the breakfast meet?!

Round and round she goes...where she drops...oh no wait..it doesnt! A fantastic result there with some laborious balancing work, but the devil is in the detail!. No good for making mr bonds shaken not stirred martini though....

The rear section isnt that bad. It joins the front section by the all Alternator as mentioned...best do it wheb the engine is cold, assume the lotus hug position...ie lying over the engine...then youll see the Connection between the alternator and firewall. This just unscrews, although may be tight with age. Next youll find its attached along that right hand side of the engine bay with p-clips..these wlll be rusted in place. Easy option is to just zip tie the new cable along the same route...then as and wheb the engine comes out remove properly..its not a bad job really. Just be aware your sticking your hands in tight places so expect a scratch and hence why you need to do it with everything cold.simples! Darren The rear section isnt that bad. It joins the front section by the all Alternator as mentioned...best do it wheb the engine is cold, assume the lotus hug position...ie lying over the engine...then youll see the Connection between the alternator and firewall. This just unscrews, although may be tight with age. Next youll find its attached along that right hand side of the engine bay with p-clips..these wlll be rusted in place. Easy option is to just zip tie the new cable along the same route...then as and wheb the engine comes out remove properly..its not a bad job really. Just be aware your sticking your hands in tight places so expect a scratch and hence why you need to do it with everything cold.simples! Darren Ps, sorry just speed read your thread...obviously this only applies to the two piece cable, and youll only need to get underneath to disconnect from the gearbox, which is a.clip..you can do.the rest from up top lie down..