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Posts posted by snowrx
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Off by a Face?
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The black/ blue layer looks undefined in photos, but it is a trapezoidal belt as used on some Nissan Z cars.
I'd switch to a round tooth if someone wanted to post me some pullies, but this does for now-
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I don't really think I have the authority to expose my entire lineage and ancestry to forensic DNA investigation, no matter how curious I might be about who preceded me. Some fascinating stories (and inconvenient family secrets) out there though!
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Doubtless the slowest Scalextric car since the Reliant Robin version, given the front track!
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Usually ABS brakes, but sometimes a manufacturer will get vehicle speed direct from the wheel. I don't know the specifics for your car. Wiring diagram may show which module it connects to.
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One could run it off the intake cam, which would keep the wiring away from the exhaust heat, but you'd want to keep the wiring away from the sparkplug electrical noise with a compact sensor or a 90 degree connector. The rest is at https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/910-megasquirt.339834/#post-4494234
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Excel V8 The air pump drive flange has the piloted inside diameter and wide base, so it should run pretty concentric.
I have a turbo, so could not use that end for a cam sensor due to the heat from the turbine housing. I placed my VR sensor behind the exhaust cam pulley, with a M6 bolt in the pully as a trigger.
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I use a grey sealant used for machined surfaces (when I started it was "Yamabond" or Threebond for motorcycle crankcases) on the cover side of the gasket and the A136 on the other. That way the gasket always stays attached to the cover on disassembly without tearing the gasket, and I've had no leaks.
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Always curious what folks have come up with for advance curves....🤔
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On 24/06/2023 at 03:57, Chillidoggy said:
And, if you have a n Alunox manifold, you lift the engine in and out with the bolt still in place, taking note of Rubik’s heat shield assembly.
On my '85 TE, that motor mount bolt was captive even with the OEM manifold. I had hoped my Alunox would allow extraction, but no.
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On 02/06/2023 at 00:29, jonwat said:
Yes, those carbs were unique to Lotus, some of the parts they manufactured themselves so if anything breaks you'll be looking a 3D printing to replace them.
RE; the tops on the turbo cars
I've had some luck casting aluminum from PLA printed items. One could get a quality scan of the turbo carb tops and generate a casting model to print, then put it in plaster, bake out the plastic and replace it with aluminum. You'd need to be slightly oversize to allow for casting shrinkage and leave the holes undersize for later drilling and threading.
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Thanks for the pics fix Sparky. Seeing those headlight frames has me considering the stainless option!
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On 19/05/2023 at 08:36, Bibs said:
Just to let you know, the entries will be judged next week by Russell Carr, Lotus Director of Design. 👍
Oh well then, ignore my pic then, I bought the engineering!
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And just to be different and difficult, the USA '85 Turbo has it attached to the engine bulkhead behind the electrics. You'd think it would have been easier to standardize across the line for a small manufacturer, but differences abound.
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Inboard discs and large radius links!
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A thermocouple style contact thermometer is pretty cheap and simple, get one with small bead style tip for touching to the outside of pipes. An awful lot of digital multimeters have the function built in, but a stand alone thermometer is cheap enough; Here's one with liquid and contact sensors for $12USD.
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Which pullies are those?
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@drdoom Here's what the full-width monitor looked like with the 2K camera above the license plate. (just clipped to the OE mirror) vs the mirror view. Nice concept , but there are issues with reflections washing out the image on bright days, which makes you want to tilt the mirror towards the headliner, which compounds the issue of having enough articulation in the mount. This ToGaurd model has a on/off switch on the bottom so you can easily disable the monitor if you want.
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@Gjk Yes, this $90USD mirror was poorly designed, they should have integrated all the wiring into one cable and split out the harness options hidden elsewhere. I was hoping to illustrate a sample mount.
@drdoom Just a forward facing camera with an integral DVR would only need a power and ground through a slim cable. But when you add a rear camera that's usually another cable. I assume some vendors offer better wiring integration than mine, which I picked for having a full width display and better cameras rather than appearance. The GPS module was free so I stuck it in, but it just adds speed data to your logs and flashes an annoying warning if you exceed 100mph, so that's one less cable I'd use in the future. If I was hurting for projects, I suppose I could open up the mirror and solder in a single multi wire harness to the existing sockets and clean it up, but then I'd have less time to drive!
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The elusive current bush?