snowrx

On my 85 turbo the boot floor section just unbolts, it may have had some sealant or foam tape at the lap joint, but just some M6 screws around the edge. Of course from there it goes all Lotus in that the wiring harness to the "box of mystery" does not have a connector to separate it from the car, so you just move it out of the way of what you're under there for.

If the rocker is bad, some forum sleuthing will turn up links to a printed replacement.

I don't know if the UK shares the US models switch, but if so those are noted for a little plastic rocker in the hazard switch that ages out and breaks. Not hard to disassemble with due care to old brittle plastic. Also most of the switches have copper contacts prone to corrosion.

Thanks for taking the time to post over here!

Wow, very nice. I was also thinking of a deeper pump housing, and dropping the PRV makes it look much simpler for those of us without distributers or charge cooler pumps. If you happen upon a deeper rotor/annulus set that fits the aux shaft let us all know. Is there a build thread for this project somewhere?

It was cheaper than the Ferrari, although in hindsight I should of taken both.

Must have more porn....

Imitation by an imitation is still some sort of flattery. Better to re-badge an MX-5 pseudo Elan than to do so with most other cars.

Curious also what products people have had good luck with, I have one that's too small for carb bodies.

Must be a fan of horror films? Hopefully not a family members blood

When I added lamps on my G-car, I think I used some generic BA15 sockets. (#1157 bulb here in the USA). The mounting is a simple bayonet style.

Interesting hoist on that gantry!

When I received my car with ~60K miles, it already had a used primary shaft with sketchy splines in a box of take-off parts . I bored my crank for the larger bearing when I rebuilt the engine, and fitted the HD circlip, but I am not full of confidence in the under-spec transaxle, which also showed signs of the crown wheel coming adrift.

MSD and Kinsler used to make tools, but I don't see them listed. Different injectors have different bores, but 14mm is common. Here's the same RMR-064 tool, listed for much less: https://www.racetronix.biz/p/tool-injector-drill-bit-domestic-14mm/tool-rmr-064

There are countersink style drills available to form an injector pocket, but I just used a normal drill bit and finish honed it with a flap of sandpaper in a die grinder to a good surface finish and fit. My injectors seal at the bottom with O-rings, so it was just a matter of sizing the fuel rail to hold them in place with the lowest O-ring down in the bore, and the "cushion" ring resting on the manifold boss. I did the same when drilling the fuel rail, a bit of radius helps get the O-rings in place. One tool, although maybe not at the best price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203246043359?

I don't know of any problems at my (low) power level. I'm currently giving myself a hard time over not even noticing the bosses were off-center. I would have welded up the side of the boss and drilled them on center. Unless you have spec'd a specific narrow injector spray pattern, it's likely that most of a typical 30 degree cone is going to end up hitting the walls of the port anyway. I now realize that the twin spray injectors I selected to reduce port wall wetting might be compromised on one valve, and better aimed on the other.

I suppose one could slant the injector bore to compensate for the offset, but that would complicate the fuel rail geometry with matching angled bores in a custom rail. Another thought would be to weld in a new centered bung for the injector. I don't really know what the gains would be, probably splitting hairs. The early carb manifolds, drilled for the vacuum fittings, had a more centered boss, but it points the wrong way.

I also keep my coils in the side compartment, away from heat and vibration. All the better to see the Logo on Lotus's own engine! One less thing to move when checking the valve lash

Just getting that thing in there is cause for celebration, never mind what it took to do it.

Might be able to build up the bosses with a TIG welder and re-tap the holes if no-one offers up a spare.

Need a speed camera version.

On my car the three fans are wired with two wires to ground as fitted, I wired them with three, and a jumper to the frame to maybe take some of the current out of the crusty old connector pin.

I had good luck dimming generic LED's with an Ebay PWM speed controller, although you need to float the grounds back to the module. I think the CAN bus bulbs run hotter as they are dumping current through a resistor to simulate the current draw of a filament.

I had a bad experience with the wrong size being listed for a K&N, it seemed to fit, but after running it a bit I found dust in the intake and saw that the rubber did not seal in the airbox on my '85 carbed G-car. I think there are two fitments that are close to the same dimensions, take care you check the size of whatever filter you get. That said, most of the comments I see on the K&N style is they don't filter all that well, this from someone who's had them on many cars.

Too much lightness, fooled again