Red

Mystery solved. I said the oil light was a feint glow, well under the right lighting circumstances I saw that the battery light was also kinda glowing. As it's just an outline light it was only really visible with cupped hands. As it was now even more likely to be a charging issue, and seemingly a small one as it was starting fine and went out with a bit of revs, I decided to go for the MOT the next day. My working theory was that the alternator was fading and not charging enough for the circuit to be happy at idle. I took it for a nice long run before the MOT to get the CATs warm and had no issues. Once warmed up the lights even went away at idle. The car breezed the MOT with only minor tom-foolery to get the emissions in line. And the MOT guy even turned the car around to save me doing it. And stalled it. And couldn't get it started. And the rear hatch latch didn't want to open! This was going downhill very fast. I managed to get the hatch open and jumped a start off a little jump pack, and nearly took off without paying. After paying the short drive home was anything but smooth. I had oil pressure but it was not happy unless it had some revs. I kept going towards home diagnosing, panicking and reducing the distance to walk home simultaneously. In the road that leads to my road I was passing a line of parked cars, (sorry, lurching past a line of parked cars) when I spotted I now had no oil pressure, so an immediate stop was made once I had room to stop. Some more panicking, this time on the phone to a mechanically savvy friend, and I ended up walking home and using the daily to ferry the battery back and forth to top it up with electrons. After that it was fine to get home. A couple of days later with the tools out and sat in the boot once more I found the issue. I hadn't connected a cable to the starter! I know what I did. I disconnected 2 groups of cables, and reconnected 2 cables, not seeing the other one wrapped in black and tucked under the starter. I'm amazed the Esprit does so well for running without an alternator. Maybe it uses the power wire for warning circuitry. I doubt someone else will be stupid enough to end up here searching for the same issue, but if you are, say hello.

Yeah, there is an engine speed relay to "prevent unnecessary concern", which seems to be working as it goes out if I rev it over 1600rpm. Why is it on under 1600rpm though?

I've just changed out the starter motor on my 97 GT3, which involved raising the rear a little, removing the boot floor. Pig of a job because the inner bolt was not budging and it had a longer than standard starter in there. Job is all done. Reconnect the battery. Car starts. Lovely. But....the oil pressure light is on! But the gauge has pressure. I checked the oil levels. Lowered the car down and let it settle in case days being raised had drained a sensor or oil. Tried again, and same problem. The light only comes on below 1600 rpm and the gauge reads as having pressure, it's running Castrol EDGE SUPERCAR 10W-60, which I believe was what our gracious @Sparky filled it with when he got it back on the road, so I don't think it's oil related. It's also faint. When the key is in position 1 it's about twice as bright and in line with the other lights. It hadn't done this at all before the starter change. I've checked all the fuses in the front and by the battery in case I blew one. I think I connected everything back up, but there is a connector just below the expansion tank that goes nowhere. I've got an MOT on Monday, and I'm wondering if it's OK to drive. Any ideas what this light, faintly, and only below 1600 rpm means?

Switch has been sold

Hi all, I fell fowl of the Delco switch like many of us have over the years. I was an unknown percentage of the way through imitating @PaulEspritGT3s solution when I decided I was far too lazy and just got @Sparky to fit one of @Chillidoggys kits. I'm super happy I did as both have now closed up shop on the brake kit supply and fitting. If someone else out there is trying to get their Delco-equipped car back on the road, maybe they'd be interested in the bits I have left sitting around. Basically I'm selling the switch and I'll include all the other bolts, adapters and connectors that may be of use. The switch was £330, I don't know how much more went on the other various bits. I'm looking for £200 including all the other bolts, adapters and connectors that may be of use. I can list these for someone if there's any interest. Here's Pauls post on how he did it And here's the original 2-switch system it's based on, but only 1 switch

I can't recall if this is a difference between the Powermaster and Ian's setup, or I just forgot because you do when projects run for years, but... The bracket should attach to the front of the clutch master cylinder, not the rear. In tightening it down I've bent it and put the whole setup a little off. The pic shows it a lot clearer than when you're craning your head over the wings, but I cocked up. Waiting to hear Sparkys full opinion on it like the rest of you. There's more fun that I'll leave for him to regale. It's not a dull service!

Spoiler: I cocked something up 😆

Very! I won't book the return trip in case there's an issue

Those flares were my handy work from a previous attempt with another master cylinder, and part of the reason that bit was left for you Sparky 😁. I didn't want to invest in a better tool for one use. Is there a brown wire going to that oil switch? There's a switch under the right hand side of the dash and one in the centre console that I haven't worked out the purpose of. I think one goes to a radar jammer, but I don't know which position is on and which is off! 😆 Look after yourself. Don't kill yourself so I get my car a week earlier.

Thanks for the help. Using an assortment of sockets, stacked washers and swear-words I managed to punch it loose. I was expecting it to loosen up at some point, but it really didn't. I'm not looking forward to the reinstallation. Hopefully if I can get the exposed end to twist, and some grease in the brake pedal bushing it will be easier than the removal. First I've got to drill that hole in the pedal though

This is a 4-evening inconvenience so far. Wiggling and pushing the pedals doesn't seem to affect it, and there's no way I'll be able to pull it with my hand yet. I've attached a pic from the fuse box hole and the clutch end from the footwell. I can't see how it got bent, unless someone used a slide-hammer to change the steering wheel! Who can say with this many years on them though?

Hi all, I'm in the process of installing Ian Lords Delco delete kit and have hit a problem. I'm trying to remove the brake pedal from the car. I've removed the split pin on the pivot shaft, but getting that shaft to move is proving a nigh on impossible. I've managed to get it inside the pedal box boss thanks to a hammer and a selection of bolts and washers of the right size. I was hoping a bit of percussive encouragement would break it loose if it was just stuck from being there for 24 years, or that extending out the clutch end would give me more purchase to pull the shaft through with some long pliers. Neither have happened, and I'm left wondering: why is mine such an issue? Could it be bent? if I can hit it out, what hope do I have of getting it back in? So I'm looking to those that have removed a brake pedal to get an idea of how uncommon this is, and any tricks will be most welcome.

It's the only one that will allow me to drive my car, so it wins points for that.

Hi all, A while back I started down a path to replace the Delco unit with something custom because of the issues with the switch reliability and availability. In the end I decided to follow Pauls switch solution which means putting everything but the switch back in. Problem is.....it's been out a while, and I'm having trouble working out where some bits go. The manuals and the photos I took are helping to an extent, but I'm stuck on this one at the moment. From all I can see, these two plates should meet, but as you can see they do not. And they're off my a suspicious distance of the thickness of the brackets. The clutch bracket is sat on top of the clutch, the shim plate(?) is sat inside the brake bracket. All firewall bolts are tightened to bottoming out. The fuse-side bolt slips through and dangles free. The clutch-side bolt has to be forced through and is pissed afterwards. Is it just that the clutch bracket somehow got bent? I still can't see that closing the gap. Can anybody tell me what is missing here, or take a top down photo of their system? Also, the brake bracket is on the right way up. If flipped over the brackets touch at the bottom but not at the top. Many thanks

Nope. Got my own one. The wait was worth it too, got exactly what I wanted......except for the braking system!