Kristof Thys

That's correct, the FEBI one is a direct replacement for the Denso unit. I have been reading your OP several times now, and sorry for me asking again, but just want the be sure and be able to help. At current, that FEBI solenoid is electrically connected but no vacuum hoses are connected as you run a separate solenoid to control the Larini? And after connecting the FEBI solenoid electrically, have the codes been erased (as they are persistent ones, they need to be erased). If yes, you state that they came back? What if you now erase the codes, drive the car, is it then again P2170 that shows?

With what solenoid did you replace that Pierburg one now?

That solenoid you are showing there, that's the bottom one (close to the exhaust), right? It shows Pierburg whilst it should be a Denso unit (iirc). Why do you say your electrician measured 5 volts over the circuit?

Wayne, let's take this step-by-step. P2170 (low) & P2171 (high) are only thrown when the fault is detected on 2 consecutive trips. The condition is that the valve is commanded and electrical resistance detected from the solenoid (=THE BOTTOM ONE!). It having melted is not a good sign. Did you replace it with the exact same part? Now, on to the interesting stuff: fuse R7 not only controls the A/C valve but ALSO the Air Intake Control Valve solenoid (THE TOP ONE). An error throws a P1113 BUT this is a non persisent code. Only present 30 seconds after the fault occured which is resistance is detected when the AICV solenoid is activate at.... 4000 RPM. I woud advise to measure resistance over an OEM exhaust valve solenoid, disconnect the one you have in now and put a resistor over the terminal for it to mimic the load on the circuit when commanded. However, I do think there is something funky going on on the intake side as fuse 7 blew. And... when fuse 7 goes, the A/C refrigerant distribution valve goes out... DISABLING the aircon! 😉 Happy hunting. (+ would loose the bluetooth solenoid to the larini... one simple 12v+ wire to the original solenoid and a switch works too... without any issues) Seeing your pictures after my post... that solenoid is deffo melted. See my post above.

As of beginning 2013 the production was changed to include only gator back belts. So if this is the first belt, it qhould be a gator back, but it doesn't look that way on that picture?

Get that belt replaced ASAP. Also, doesn't look to be the gator back style belt, as it should be?

I have one. Dead easy. https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/90994-komotec-front-service-panel-installation-problems/?do=findComment&comment=771765

To be able to switch (in my case) between loud and extremely loud. I normal cases between silent and normal.

Don't bother, any exhaust shop can cut and add an extension pipe.

Should be straight forward; like Jonny says. 30 - 45 mins all in.

Without any doubt: headers and a sport cat.

Or run an extra wire to the OEM solenoid to open/close from a switch in the cabin for more comfort (ideally have an aftermarket/adapted back box to allow for no/low back pressure running with valve closed). The problem with such a "fish tank valve" is that often these are not fully air tight, sucking in debris; and that's even worse for those pulling vacuum from the SC (as compared to the OEM setup over the airbox pre filter element).

@electro_boy @Jmanji Typically you would have 2 PRE cat O2 sensors in the (Larini) manifolds and 2 POST cat. Contrary to what is often shouted, from a technical perspective, there is no issue running without a cat. However, on the POST cat O2 sensors you must use a so called "O2 simulator" or you WILL get a CEL (P042x "Catalyst system below efficiency threshold" bank x or y) on the stock tune & ECU. Basically its an extension with a small cat integrated that sits between the exhaust gas flow and the sensor. I am not debating the environmental impact (and no, I do have a cat (+Larini headers, +CAI, straight pipes). Need to add (edit): this comes only from experience on V6 Exige (so supercharged), might be different on the S1 Evora's but it shouldn't be as the same manifolds with integrated cats are used as for as I know across all 2GR-FE (sc & NA) models? If not, I've learned something new 😉

Great info, didn't know that! Always nice to see other alternatives becoming available. Would suggest an 8 inch wide front wheel if you can order width to spec. Just watch out for the offsets as I've read (no personal experience) that ET 35 at the rear might rub? I'm running ET 27 on an 18x10 at the rear, 265 tire.

Just like @BatMobile but on my V6S and slightly lower offsets - BC Forged RZ05. I have black/silver LOTUS emblems on them now but yet to take a good picture.

PCD Front 110.0 ± 0.1 mm PCD Rear 114.3 ± 0.1 mm Spigot Front 65.14 mm Spigot Rear 68.14 mm Never heard of Wedsport so did a quick Google. Buy price alone most likely these are cast wheels. So will be heavier than forged ones; you will notice that (given you have forged ones, but I see you have a 410, so I think they are always forged?). I went from OEM cast wheels to custom made forged ones, and the difference is noticeable. But that will sort itself as I'm pretty sure that Wedsport don't do wheels in the correct size/pcd dimensions 😉

If you are asking because you want to replace them, know that between front and rear also the spigot size and pcd are different.

front is ET 26.3 rear is ET 32 (actually it's ET 35 with a 3mm spacer bonded on... in true Lotus style)

There you have it. Keep us informed about the next one.

Me like a lot. Are those the Wish tailpipes? (nothing wrong with that as they are super quality)

There's only one who can decide and that's you. You asked for advice and we've given it. Not that fair to put Lotus down as they had some subsequent questions. I guess you already made up your mind?

@LotusLeftLotusRight my feeling exactly. Even if all turns out to be OK (@Exx you do seem to be persistent, I guess your best bet is to kindly take up on Bibs offer, God bless the good man) it would a) always go round in my head and b) might pose the same problem come sale time.

So if the sensors were added, then are they 'physically' connected to the dash? (sorry didn't read up on the specific topic re the AIM dash). In any case, engine oil temp this low after sufficient warm up is just not possible. Sry not being of anymore help.

Not wanting to state the obvious, but so you have an oiltemp and gbox oil temp sensor? Engine oil should be ideally around 100-105C Gbox oil around 70C I would say.

@Exx seeing your question on the reverse sensors... means you have bought the car? Chop chop, off to the introduction section WITH photo's!