Kristof Thys

Never knew this. Many thanks for the info Dave! Never too old to learn. Cool!

The switch on the dash controls the exhaust flap solenoid, but it is probably stuck closed hence the exhaust flap remains open. Alternatively, the red hose is connected directly on the exhaust flap, bypassing said solenoid (and it's not the one in the pics) and vacuum is applied immediately on startup. In that case the flap immediately closes. Kinking the line won't make a difference as the vacuum remains trapped. Easy to test: just unplug the red line from the supercharger vacuum nipple and see if exhaust note changes. It might be that your exhaust is always closing the flap and you're in "quiet" mode all the time 🙂 Reason for running a separate switch could be if you want the exhaust flap to be open or closed throughout the rev range. The OEM switch doesn't allow for the flap to remain closed over 4500 rpm. On the older style exhausts (pre 380), this is doable as the "quiet" trajectory on the muffler uses only slighter diameter piping compared to the "loud" trajectory. This is not the case on 380 mufflers and onwards. I have a custom muffler with in both cases 70mm piping, so I switch the exhaust to fully quiet if I want to.

That's not the solenoid that is operating the exhaust valve. It's the solenoid that operates the flap in the OEM airbox for low and high rpm air intake trajectory. That one is correctly "decommissioned". The exhaust valve solenoid sits further down, just above the chassis rail, left rear towards the bottom of the car. That red hose will connect to it. Most likely that solenoid is seized closed, so valve on exhaust sprung open, pretty common due to water ingress. If that is the case, just replace. FYI - if you want to have full control (permanent open/closed) with an aftermarket switch, just run a switched 12v+ line to that solenoid.

not my picture... but indeed on this forum. Big bore KT system doesn't seem to clear the gearbox (rather than the sump) well?

yes, IMO they are. You should change the title however, the V6S and 390FE are both S3 Exiges...

On the analog dash you typically get the 3 red lights at 4k RPM when the car is in limp home mode. I have no clue what the "AIM dash version" of that looks like; same goes for the CEL. Only thing I can think of is that the code cleared after restart (so not a persistent code thus not emissions related) - fuel surge is possible, but it would throw a code, albeit maybe not a persistent one; would need to look that up. Anyway, it is fixed now he 😉

@dakm - to your question: not getting into gear is not normal. Course of action: change gearbox oil. Otherwise have gear selector cables adjusted.

It's soot mixed with water that's coming out when the exhaust is cold. The exhaust gases condensate, mix with the soot and it drips out. That doesn't cause any damage whatsoever. Decent sport cats even have a "vent hole" for the condensate run out the same way. That flex pipe however is prone to fail. I would suggest you take it to the dealer as under warranty and have them rectify the situation. Best case it is just the gasket between the Y-pipe and the aft exhaust section. Might be cracked, missing or been reused after an exhaust swap (never do that). "Worst" case it's indeed the flex section that failed and then you might need a nex Y-pipe or have an exhaust shop cut off the old section and weld on a new one. It won't harm anything however. My guess: flex pipe failed.

That's indeed 'normal'.

Have a EU spec (LHD) car with alu footrest on the passenger side (passenger over here sits on the right hand side ;-)). Considering moving to a full carpet set. I know Imran is selling a LHD set, not sure they are different (I do think they are different in the footwell area?) - does anybody know what options are out there? - I've read using double sided tape... I do want things to be fully reversible without leaving any marks on the alu; any tips & tricks? Many thanks! Interior shot:

There are others out there, but limited. The guys over at BR-Performance have mapped a few now. These are bespoke maps, so you can have everything done as long as the OEM T6 ECU supports the required changes. Over at BR Netherlands they recently mapped a V6 to a healthy 395bhp / 464Nm. There are also a few tuners in France able to work with the T6. Komotec isn't gonna do anything with "non-Komotec stuff" on your car.

The stock engine has (IIRC) a 10.8:1 compression ratio. So running anything over 100 octane will actually make LESS power due to the slower burn. I see no benefit whatsoever over running good quality 98 RON as knock with 98 won't be an issue on our very conservatively tuned engines.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2022/02/ferrari-488-meets-lotus-exige/ Me likey a lot!

@Ollie260 The 350 has a higher rev limit and has the supercharger spinning slower at all times compared to the Sport 380. As both are non-charged cooled and running the same supercharger, you will get more heat soak in the 380. Peak power in the 380 comes in at 100 rpm before it cuts ignition; on the 350 you'll have 200 rpm "bandwidth" making an easier run up through the gears whilst on it on track. (6800 vs 7200 is a lot) Jokke Vlo on here (he has moved on) did a nice write-up on his comparison between his old V6S and then his 380 Sport. In the end, he had the EX460 kit installed on the 380 (as he did on his V6 earlier) as the rev limit "thing" was really bothersome.

For extended track use, a 350 might even be the better choice.

The post cat O2 sensors are located BEFORE the third cat; so removing that one will never cause a check engine light.

The real fun starts when you simply keep valve 2 in place electronically, but disconnect the vacuum and have it run through a separate valve you then switch from the cabin. Like I did. So you can have the car always loud or always quiet with the flick of a switch. Mind you, don't do this with the OEM back box, esp. not the +380 one (due to the very small pipe diameter for the "quiet" trajectory => lots of back pressure).

When I replaced mine, it took me all in all 7 hours. Access from underneath is not sufficient so you need to remove the cover that sits behind the boot carpet, remove the upper engine trim etc, remove undertray, remove diffuser, remove back box, remove Y-pipe, remove both manifolds, add extensions on the O2 leads, replace all other stuff, add all new gaskets, have bolts stuck etc. I would say it's 4 hours MINIMUM.

On the Larini's the valves work 'the other way round' mechanically: valve OPEN is quiet mode, valve CLOSED is loud mode. Electronically it's transparant to the car, so it works as OEM. This was at least the case for the V1 version, but I am pretty sure the V2 version works the same, only the "straight pipe" now goes through the muffler (but isn't perforated). Valve open: absorption path is taken by the exhaust gasses, valve closed, straight through path is followed. So NO risk in burning the valve on track as it's always open. V1 version I had a few weeks on my car. Valve closed= exhaust gasses forced through the straight pipe, which is loud mode: But either way, they are too loud for track. I've never tracked my car, but I have a custom made back box with override switch so I can switch between permanently quiet (absorption muffler) or permanently loud (straight piped). If you stay with the OEM manifolds with cats, such a setup IMO would work for quiet track days in quiet mode without harming the engine (back pressure) or burning the valve (valve sprung CLOSED without vacuum and not open).

That's the spot indeed. I use a wooden block to spread the load.

Like per my post: you need the grille and the diffuser; not the finisher. The 380 cup diffuser is different to the 430 cup one. I fitted the 430 cup one.

I see that the MAF-with-a-zip-tie is now a factory standard 😉

It's not a binary approach; just do the sensible thing. Don't weld pipes in restrictive manifolds but get good aftermarket headers. If you want to run with or without sport cat is your choice: like you say, it will work with just 2 "post cat" O2 simulators on the lambda sensors. DixieV6 ran his car for +4 years that way, including a good CAI (with air straightener). However, this setup does drone with the OEM back box. Come 2y inspection time, swapped the straight pipe with a sport cat. I am running headers and a 100-cell (not 200-cell) cat for over 2 years now, with same type of CAI and straight pipes internally in the customised back box. Neither of us have had any issues, both cars on stock tune. At WOT I am seeing on my wideband O2 AFR's 11:1's where when stock I was at 10:1's fcuk rich at WOT. Long term fuel trims are at +3.5 IIRC. So all good. Dave IS correct that on a SC application, freeing up the exhaust too much might decrease low & mid range power. EDITED to add: you say "swapping" the headers/manifolds over IF they use the sniffer at inspection... one extra reason to get decent headers: swapping the decat pipe with the sport cat will be 100x easier than swapping manifolds once.

Disconnect the connector underneath the seat; the seatbelt warning will disappear, but the passenger airbag will still be active.

@Tex the only reliable way I find to unscrew the O2 sensors is by unplugging them and "turning" the lead as you unscrew them. They are indeed a pain in the a$$ as the cables are routed through the subframe I see. I disconnect them, free the lead/cable and remove completely from the car. What modif are you doing to the cat? slip-on flange for the BB?