DaveyT

I thought it was NC...there’s a spring sits in the centre hole you see above, and a top hat contact on the plunger which I think breaks contact when the pedal is in its home position (top hat sits above the two contacts shown) I think when you actually fit the switch, you need to adjust the locknuts so that its breaks the contact? so in other words, you switch will actually be “operated” when the pedal isn’t being used. Hope that makes sense.

Do you still have 6v at the foglight as you mention above? If so, then I’d suggest cleaning all of the contacts you can find...fuse holders, connectors on the back of the fuse block etc. It’s a bit of a pig to get to them, but if you have 6v, then I would guess it’s a resistance issue. if you do clean the fuse block cnx, make sure you get them back in EXACTLY the same place....I managed to get one back onto the wrong terminal (but apparently the same electrical contact on that side, but across the wrong fuse), and while everything still worked, it caused a huge drain on the battery. i think the fogs also only come on when main lights are active, too. Headlights likely to be an earthing issue? Might also be worth cleaning the relay and plug contacts (under front bonnet lhs). Mine were also misbehaving after rebuild, but have been fine since I did that.

I managed to get mine back together...no idea why the cap is there though unless it’s for some sort of extended “on” time, Fortunately, mine just clipped back together without any real issues. Must have got knocked somehow when the dash came out good luck with yours, glad you ID’d the problem.

Genius! I have viton needles, and mine’s a 912 with 8.5g floats, but your description, reasoning and methodology for setup is impeccable! this time next week, Rodney!....

As above per Chris on mine (which is the trunnions set up) I also used a ratchet strap to keep tension on the roll bar whilst trying to remove/replace it. It may have changed by now but Steve SJ’s opinion was definitely to go for purple poly on the arb.

Can you hear the fuel pump working when you switch on the ignition? do you have the solenoid shut off switch inline at the end of the hard fuel pipe before the carb line? This needs to be earthed, and if (as I did) you paint the body, it won’t earth back through its circular clamp.

Tim, for the switch, get into the reverse upside down lotus position and track the pedal stalk upwards. You should find the wiring going from the top of the pedal upwards into the main loom. switch on mine is at the very top of the pedal bracket. I couldn’t really see mine either, it’s more of a feel thing... good luck!

@Billy_Idle....seems it is possible!

Well done chaps... dont want to pee on the parade, but have you identified where the debris was coming from? Hopefully it was something foreign in the part rather than throughout the system! And Dan, lets just say I was glad I'd already removed the carpets .

Likewise my S3 n/a has oil pipe into the guage. ask me how I know...go on, just ask 😉

How long was it running before you switched off Fabian. Although I didnt fully rebuild mine, the crank and cam seals were done, along with the thrust bearing, and the oil pump olive replaced along with all necessary gaskets. It took about 30-45 seconds of running to register oil pressure at the dash guage....and I primed the cooler first as well

Cant remember, it's been so long since it was all together and working, but i think it just disabled/enabled it. if enabled then the arial would operate when the radio was switched on. Not sure if it went down if the switch was operated whilst in its extended position though. someone on here will have a working one and be aware of its vagaries I'm sure this thread might help...

Pretty sure its for the factory electric arial....so you can have the arial down when listening to cassetes only. at least it is on my 82 G car

Perfect timing. I will be following closely. I recently balanced my carbs (DHLA 45s)and started to check the 27mm level, but the problem i noticed was that my carbs dont seem to sit level. (Front to back difference in the fuel level in each bowl) I was certainly nowhere near the 27mm figure, but can't recall which way now. The car itself is currently on gravel standing, and I cant move it, so it could be that the car itself is not sitting level, so I decide to crack on with other stuff and revisit fuel level when I know its on flat ground. but in essence, answer to your query, with a static setting of 15mm, the fuel in my carbs does not appear to be colse to 27mm as described above, even if I averaged out the level differences.

Paulo, my chassis number is also stamped on two lines like yours, and is also slightly undulating. engine no on my 82 is here, but its pretty obvious placement so I doubt you've missed it if there!

Brake light switch on top of pedal? not sure about fogs though...two separate issues maybe?

@chopper, is this true? 😉

First world problems, eh? 😉 @JNW3 must be in a very small subset of people even able to offer that particular choice!

https://moneymaven.io/mishtalk/economics/another-weird-brexit-turn-tories-vote-to-support-no-deal-bill-in-house-of-lords-mUB9gkhpJEWtrA9sXGNoOw/

My take fwiw. Neither side could organise the proverbial, and with Boris now being effectively hamstrung and likely to not get his election, it's time for a second referendum before the 15 th October. Put it to us plebs again, with all the knowledge that we now have after 3 years of dicking about, with only one simple question : 1- should we revoke Article 50 2- should we come out of the EU on 31st October with no deal if one cannot be agreed. Not sure if a referendum can be called more easily than a GE, or how this No Deal bill (if made law) would be effectively overridden by the new referendum Half the country is gonna be pissed off anyway, so lets just get the fecker over and done with rant over

Did that include Octane @Bibs? If not, I'll ping it over to my friend Sanjay, about time I caught up with him anyway...(assuming he's still there, that is) He expressed interest in doing a piece on mine as & when I got it sorted, but as I'm not quite there yet....

But fill the larger hole? I assume this is to stop RTV getting into the 'box? I prodded around in that centre 'hole' with a piece of wire, but it seems to be more of a recess than a through-hole? so I'm guessing the oil is getting out from between the sides of the plug and the casting? the breather is clear and doing its job correctly as far as I can tell..

Thanks Gotti... did you knock the plug out and reseal, or just backfill with sealant? (If indeed it is a separate plug that fills the hole in the casting...)

Hi @Gotti, Can I ask what sealant you used? I'm wondering if a PU like tigerseal or Masterbond (screen bond) would do it.. I have exactly the same issue, and although it feels like a blind hole, there is definitely oil coming out of it somewhere since I topped up to the full 3Lt as suggested by @dsvitesse1 lost probably 100ml during a 10 min setting up session, so revs generally below 1500rpm. TIA Dave

Does heating gently help? And what is unobtainable, Giorgio? The glass or the mirror body? the loom on mine terminates in the connections to the mirror on the passenger side (no in-car connectors), so i have to feed the cable thro the door from the inside and plug the mirror in before fixing it on... might well add some connectors to make it easier.