mswest68

You said the fuel system pressurizes with key on... The fuel pumps are wired to only energize at crank and run. They are triggered by the RPM relay with a negative signal being sent to the pumps - Look for ground and 12v from battery and 12v from ignition here. Do you know what your primary pressure and system pressure readings are? The injectors should open at around 45psi (just over 3bar). You should have primary pressure around 6.5 bar and control pressure around 2.5 bar (should be lower at higher altitude). Looking at the crank circuit, both the cold start injector and thermal time switch are only energized at crank. make sure the white / yellow wires coming from each are attached to the starter such that they only energized at crank. Finally, make sure your Aux Air is fully open when engine is cold. With the cold start injector operating properly, the engine needs the additional air from Aux air valve. Another obvious check is the timing... this will bite you every time.

Great. Thanks, Ben. I have sent an email to you. Matt

Thanks, Ben. I'd like to order the turbo manifold for a 1988 esprit, but with internal wastegate (not stock). What's the best way to place the order? THanks, Matt

Has anyone heard an update on when the Alunox manifolds will be available? Currently waiting to put order in and receive delivery before reinstalling my motor. Thanx - Matt

I agree, not too bad if you take your time and work smart. My L/H side came out with no problem. I cut the stud on both sides of the bushing, removed the lower link, then worked the remaining two sides out with the press. I broke the R/H side out of stupidity. After cutting the stud and removing the lower link, I proceeded to press the remaining stud out W/O properly supporting the casting. 😫 An expensive mistake I won't be making again!

I just found one on EBay UK. Still has lower link attached, so it's a bit of a gamble, but think I'll pull the trigger. If they are as rare as folks are eluding to, I'll take what I can get.

Broke my 1988 Esprit R/H rear hub trying to press out lower link stud... Anyone know where I can fine a replacement? Thanks.

At this point, I couldn't resist doing a complete engine rebuild. I'll provide updates as I can. Currently, the motor is disassembled and at the machine shop getting a 3 angle valve job, crank polishing, and balancing. I'll be removing the external wastegate system and going with a new turbo with internal wastegate and Alunox SS exhaust manifold and fitting kit. I hope to start reassembly this week.

Hi Mark, Thanks for checking. I've tried dialing from the US with no luck. do you have an email address for Martyn I could try. I'd like to go ahead and purchase the system, but haven't had any luck having someone respond to my emails using their generic info@... email link. Thanks, Matt

So, in light of the many other things I should probably address on the motor (timing belt, accy belts, oil links, etc.) and because I really want to remove and inspect the exhaust, I decided to yank the lump out. Having never done this before, it took me about 6 hrs, but well worth it. Now I can properly clean everything up, replace all the belts, seals, hoses, etc. and hopefully fit a functioning exhaust. Speaking of the exhaust system, I can't seem to find anyone that sells a replacement silencer and other parts. Considering the Alunox system. I've emailed the company twice, but haven't heard back. any recommendations out there for replacing the whole exhaust system with a higher performance aftermarket m,m? Matt

Mark, Are any still available? If so, I'll take one! Matt

I think my problem is in the wastegate, so I'm going to try my luck at rebuilding the assembly, but nothing is ever easy on this car. I'm stumped.. I can't figure out how to get the wastegate off the manifold - there's just no accessing the bolt nearest the sump. I then tried to drop the wastgate while still on the adapter manifold. no luck there either - again can't get to the nuts closest to the motor. Does anybody have any experience with this? Any advise would be great. thanks!

While taking a thorough look under the car today, I noticed the exhaust back pressure valve (EBPV) is not physically connected to the corresponding lever on the exhaust pipe. The valve and associated spring look to be in bad shape - probably broke away from the lever. Though, I'm not sure this is what's causing my problem.

CarBuff - The EOM number reads: A-PR0045

I'm not sure if this is turbo related or a failure in the engine management system. Car operates fine at idle, through normal acceleration, up until I hit about 4200 RPM. At that time the engine completely cuts out with a violent loss of power. When this happens I naturally take my foot off the accelerator, at which time the car then drops in rpm and again operates normally until high rpms are reached again. Could it be a bad overboost switch, or wastegate failure? Additional Info.. may be related... my boost gauge never moves and and do not hear the blow off valve operating when driving. Any help trouble shooting would be greatly appreciated.