Lordsinclair

The car is now sold. Many thanks.

Also should mention the original air box is included as well as a lot of spares...

1979 Series 1 Lotus Éclat 523. Manual 5-speed. Recommissioned a couple of years ago after 25 years in dry storage. A great deal of work and money has gone into the restoration of this very original car. This represents a true bargain of the classic car world and a rare chance to snap up an appreciating classic. Only a few minor finishing touches needed. Tax and MOT exempt car This car has a solid, rust-free chassis All new brake pipes Refurbished front callipers New rear slave cylinders New Pads and shoes New front discs Refurbished master cylinder Replacement servo New cam belt Refurbished water pump Refurbished vacuum system Original Green alcantara interior in very good condition Paintwork in good condition 5 new tyres 5 freshly refurbished, diamond cut original wheels A/C system is removed, all parts present and system was pressurised when removed.

Thanks, I'll try it.

Hi Duncan, yes it turns over but won't fire. I'll try tapping the fuel pump but it's a new electronic one. Thanks for the advice though.

Hi all, My Eclat 523 has been sitting for a few months and now won't start. Anyone around the Stevenage / Hitchin / Hertfordshire area who fancies dropping by to give me a hand with getting the old girl running? IMG_3107.HEIC

Hi Dave, having just bought a 1979 Eclat 523 in the same colour as yours I’ve been reading your thread with interest. Looks like you’ve done some great work with your car. Looking forward to more updates.

Thanks Richard. I will test that pink wire. Unfortunately I managed to fry the new Accuspark module so will order a new one alongside a 12V coil to do away with the ballast resistor.

4. Connecting AccuSpark Existing distributor with AccuSpark Module /Full new AccuSpark Distributor It is recommended that any radio suppressors are removed before fitting. Your Distributor will now have a Red wire and a Black or Blue wire, it may be necessary to lengthen the red wire on some models, standard auto wire can be used and we would recommend 1.5 mm/15-amp wire as being suitable, good quality crimps or solder should be used 1. Connect the black wire to the existing low tension wire running to the negative side of the coil. 2 Connect the red wire to a 12 volt source as below Standard ignitions: Connect to positive terminal on coil. See fig 1a Ballast ignitions: Connect to the 12 Volt side of the resistor or wire (DO NOT CONNECT TO COIL). See fig 1b if the position of the resistor or wire is unknown connect to ignition key or the live side of the fuse box (not through a fuse). see fig 1b NOTE: If unsure of your ignition type connect as b.

I now have 12V at the coil but I'm concerned that the positive wire from the distributor (from the new Accuspark electronic ignition) is going directly to the positive terminal of the coil. The Accuspark diagram says DO NOT CONNECT TO COIL when referring to the red wire, but to "Connect to the 12 Volt side of the resistor or wire." What's the 12 Volt side of the pink wire? What I'm asking is is it OK to connect the red/positive from the distributor, the pink resistor wire, and the yellow feed wire from the solenoid, all to the positive terminal of the coil? I've bypassed the ceramic ballast resistor completely now. How do you wire in the pink wire? Here's a photo of the current wiring.

Hi Clive, Thanks. I'm not sure if the ceramic ballast resistor is original to the car or not. Trying to find out now. So you're saying remove it and rely on the pink resistor wire? Michael, I have a feeling the coil was wired back to front so I've changed the wiring but need to be sure before I reconnect the battery and turn the key. Yes, I removed the distributor and marked it when I did etc. But you're right, could be 180 degrees out. Trouble is I had no spark before I swapped to electronic ignition. Thanks for the tips regarding the timing. For now though, all I want is a spark!

Hi, thanks for the help. The car was running very badly and then it stopped and I haven't been able to start it since. No spark at coil or plugs. I think the coil was wired back to front, and although the coil is 12V apparently it does need a ballast resistor. Now I'm learning that the pink wire in the loom is a resistor, so Richard you think I should bypass the ceramic one on the bulkhead and just attach the pink wire (along with the other wires) to the positive coil terminal. Not sure why I have both a pink resistor wire and a ceramic ballast resistor... Any help much appreciated.

Hi all, I've just bought a '79 Eclat. Trouble is it ran (badly) when it was delivered to me but now won't start at all. Fuel is pumping OK but there's no spark at the coil or the plugs. I have a few questions I hope someone with more knowledge than me can help with... The Previous owner swapped the original 6v coil for a 12v one. Now I've installed Accuspark electronic ignition. Am I right in thinking the ballast resistor can now be bypassed? The coil he replaced the original with is an INTERMOTOR BALLAST COIL INT11070. Is this a correct replacement? Does the name imply then that it IS to be used with a ballast resistor? I connected the multimeter to the coil and the readings are as follows: Primary reading should be 1.385, mine measured 1.8. Secondary should be 9.07 KOhm, mine read 8.53. Is this low enough to suppose the coil is bad and should be replaced? If there's anyone who can provide a dummie's guide to using a multimeter to check ignition wiring etc I'd be grateful. I've cleaned all the grounds thoroughly by the way. Thanks in advance.