RoflOnMyWaffle

Deposit taken, so it's provisionally sold

Haven't posted in SOOO long - but the car is going for sale this summer - have added a link below https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/15005756

Essentially yes, the cutouts won't allow a normal belt to be used.

FWIW - the parking sensors have always been shit, and thats being nice. Mine would work fine all day, then freak out in an empty car park as if I was 3 feet away from driving into someting. I obviously stop, check mirrors, cant see, get out and check - nothing but air. Get back in, try reverse again, car is fine. It will randomly go off when I reverse down my driveway, to the point I ignore it now, because I know there is nothing there. It's not good.

Tilletts are a definite upgrade, try them all, personally B6 Screamers would be better if you fit. But you will lose the ability of normal seatbelts.

I didn't take them, a friend did. If you have Facebook or Instagram, Rob Schaverien took them. He'd be more than happy to send them over👍

That's Steve's car, in Daytona blue 👍 Was a lovely example the last time I saw it on the IoW.

Yeah I fixed it - can't remember what ohms resistor I used though, sorry. It all works fine though, so good luck.

Nextbase are decent and cheap - currently using a 522GW as my old 512GW died ( after 5 years of near constant power cycles, pretty decent ) Although common mistake is for people to go for high res rather than high fps. You're gonna want a mix, I shoot mine at 1080p 120FPS which is plenty good enough- although its capable of 60fps at 4k, the file size is huge. As for the mounting, I stuck it as close as I could behind the mirror so its not in my view when I drive, and counters the Exige's low ride height, to try and give a more complete picture of your surroundings. Your main issue is going to be powering it, and hiding the wires. All I did was use run the wire along the windscreen frame at top, using small bits of black tape to hide/hold it. From there, its down the A pillar, again using the tape. After the A pillar it gets messy unless you fancy taking the dash apart or removing trim like the side sills, so all I did was run it outside in the weather strip, and then back inside under the sill, behind the passenger seat and plugged into the cigarette lighter. As I said, not tidy by any means, but also no loose wires, and it was quick/easy to do and check.

I genuinely don't understand the point Yes, 3 point turns are annoying, but if they tire you that much just keep driving and make 3 left turns, or 3 right turns. When you're moving at more than 5mph the wheel can be turned with a single finger.

And it does still look lovely, even on the back of a truck!

I've fitted a 3.2 ohms resistor, is that close enough or will the light stay on?

What resistor do I need to stop the airbag light?

Hi guys, does anyone have any instructions for how to wire the B&G hub? Also am I right in thinking I use my 4 OEM bolts from the steering wheel to bolt the hub to the quick release? Sadly it came with no instructions that were specific for the Lotus. Also I'm not sure how to wire it up, obviously the resistor for the airbag but bar that I'm a bit lost. Sorry!

May as well buy them new at that price, from SeriouslyLotus.

After doing the fronts, I decided it was a good improvement, but I still lacked the full sound as it only came from the front - obviously. So being easy to install, I went ahead and installed the rear Focal 130s. First thing was to remove the Tilletts - and by god do I hate that front left bolt on the passenger seat. I managed to undo all the other bolts quicker than the last than I can the last bolt. but hey. With that out the way, it was time to remove the harness bar, harnesses, and rear panel. Very easy job, undo the two bolts for the bar, and remove the seatbelts from it. Then its time to remove the cigarette lighter part, with (what I think is) the sunglasses holder? No idea what its used for but its useless. One crappy screw holds it on but it also stops the bulkhead panel from coming out. Quick check to see if I had the wiring loom, which I did. So off came the panel, and out came the speaker blanks. Easy as hell to take out, the two screws either side of the maplight are plastic and only finger tight. So once those are out you just carefully pry the panel out and away it goes. Time for a good wipedown and speaker test fit. Now that the new speakers were in and working, it was time to wait. And wait. And wait. I dropped the harness bar off to be powder coated and brought a paint sample so they could match it, last week Thursday. Understanding it wouldn't be done that week he agreed it'll be either Monday or early Tuesday. No problem I said, so I called mid afternoon Monday, to be told he wasn't in that day, and to call tomorrow. Called Tuesday, to be told check back Wednesday, so I did. Called back late Wednesday, to be told it wasn't done, should be done Friday, today. Needless to say it was done, but I was sceptical. Colour isn't 100% match, being its metal and powdercoat vs wet coat with metallic etc. It is what it is, Im happy, you can barely tell.

Can't believe my last post was November, but here we are! About a month ago I had some Focals fitted to the front, and a sub for the passenger footwell. I wasn't comfortable doing the wiring of the sub so just gave the job to Toby from Shocksaway as per many peoples suggestions on TLF/Facebook. Dropped off in the morning, came back mid afternoon and job done. Totally transformed my sound - which had a dodgy speaker since about since months in to my now 3 year journey. The passenger carpet covers half the sub so should keep it relatively clean, and Toby has assured me that the grill will protect the inners anyway. I'm hoping that the industrial grade velcro will be enough to hold it in place, but time will tell. The JBL sub is so potent it is on around 2/10 for power. Anything higher and it's actually chest thumping, which is awesome for such a small unit, but also not pleasant for me, passengers or general public when I drive around. Definitely money well spent!

https://www.platesforcars.co.uk/designer.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpdqDBhCSARIsAEUJ0hMo1iMnioiewYPRhw5s1LwNlZARXJTZsmtEuf9v5xN8NQ6NEl7Mj8QaAgBAEALw_wcB Thats your answer

Might I suggest some DIY on that plate, cut the ends off so it's a shorter one?

Just needs a pair of Tilletts and you'll be good 🤣👍

And white/panda spec!

Never come across that, so my bad. Although I remember a chap on here declared he changed from summer to winter tyres (or winter to summer) and got royally screwed by insurance 🤷‍♂️

In short 1. Nope 2. It's not a mod, it's an option, so don't need to declare. They'll get confused and think you cut the roof off and all sorts, knowing insurance companies... 3. Nope 😅

Just another quick shout out to Toby at Shocksaway - only 10 miles away from B&C service/Back on Track. Great guy, friendly and professional. Focals sound a fair bit clearer but the sub is really what made the difference as everyone has said. Still feel like the sound is only coming from the front (obviously) so I'm going to add rear speakers at a later date to try and make a more complete sound. I kept the old OEM speakers just in case anyone needs a spare or has a project - free of charge, just cover the postage.