fflyingdog

I would be very surprised if it made any descerbable difference to performance, other than that if your previous manifold was leaking (cracked blowing etc) you would have been loosing gas pressure on the turbos turbine.Agree the Alunox manifold does look pretty though. Nick S4s

My pump was running almost continuously many years ago ,all down to the fresh air flap actuator being shot ,access under plastic fan shroud,and being very apparent with misted screen.

Maybe they shared a single manufacturer and just had their company stamp on batches?

Hi Ian, I disassembled the relay tray and squeezed each relay socket (in actual fact all the relay sockets are is spade grips and mine had lost their 'pinch'),as i said a bit of a faff but possible,i found quite a few that appeared to be a tight fit on some relay legs but others were loose giving the false impression that it was a good snug fit.No special tools other than a bit of masking tape to label up,but i found mine tended to sit roughly where they came out. Eta.Speeling

The relay will get warm ,it's only only in essence a switch on or off.may be worth checking the relay tray is seating the relays securely ,they do get loose over time mine did and caused a whole myriad of problems.Bit of a faff but worth dismantling and pinching each spade grip .

Quick update ,i'm going to repair mine as its not quite as bad as i first thought,bl@@dy stupid idea retaining that size of fibreglass with just 2 bolts though. Nick S4s

Whilst travelling rather sedately (luckily) my rear under bumper diffuser decided to part company with the car,the retaining bolts had just literally rusted through and as i said luckily no one was behind me and it didn't damage anything else.I'm thinking of making an aluminum mesh type affair has anyone done this before?

Yeah what you need is some old boy into making steam engines etc and doing it out of love and a few beers.

I see your problem ,i'm wondering how hard it would be with a cnc to knock up a new one? Maybe see how much to knock up a few and sell them to recover your costs,i'm sure you wont be the only one encountering this.

My Clifford Concept does this too but you can disable it with a lot of faffing around pressing buttons and crossing fingers.

Can you either recover/clean the thread with a thread file or alternatively retap a new thread on to the stub spindle? Nick S4s

Any update ?

I've jump started mine plenty of times ,just make sure the ignition is off before connecting leads.If you inadvertently leave ignition on then i agree you can spike the Ecu.

On my S4s last year i had all sorts of problems car turned over wouldn't start ,loss of power for absolutely no reason (or as i thought at the time) until it was becoming a right royal pain.I troubleshot ALL my problems down to the relay tray on the r/h side behind r/h rear wheel,every single spade grip was loose causing the relays to become very intermittent. I ended up removing tray and tightening every one of the what is essentially a spade grip held in the tray via a tang ,one or two grips (as it happened the fuel relay was one of them) had obviously been chattering for some time and had been arching causing some plastic on the tray to become distorted. Nick S4s

As others have said ,just make sure the car is up together,water oil etc,other than a complete mechanical break down most things can be fixed or 'put' up with until you get home.......AA European cover is probably a wise move too. These cars really do prefer to be used rather than sat in a garage,the only thing i truly get paranoid about is listening for the fans to cut in. Nick S4s

My Clifford will ,remotely unlock/lock car on both doors,close windows remotely,remotely start car,and scream like a banshee if tampered with,turbo timer,fuel cutoff,and remotely make a nice cup of tea.......been installed for 11 years and always does what its supposed to. Nick S4s

Don't dismiss the waste gate lever being jammed , mine was and caused an overboost condition and did pop the turbo by not bleeding off and sticking,on tear down the lever was very badly worn.

I didn't go as deep as you did Owen,just loosened nuts on runners, pulled runners away,and with some MS4 silicone grease 'fed' the seal down the glass runners ,bit of a pain but not too harder job,as with most jobs the thought of doing it was worse than the actual job itself.Made such a difference to the cabin noise at speed.

So at 3500 rpm the car comes off idle jets and comes on mains? I'm not that up on carbed versions of this car but if it was a bike i would say that one of your mains is blocked ,what type of carburettor/s are fitted ?

Well after 2 years of having drivers side window seal I decided to remove old one as it was ripped and had turned in and twisted itself, what an absolutely hilarious job that was ,silicone grease is your friend as is a pair of needle nose .I pulled old seal out ,removed door card and associated plastic covers on inner door skin, loosened the window frame, pushed new seal down the runners with the help of silicone grease, now have a nice free running quiet cabin....bliss. Nick s4s

Hmm i didn't see any spacers as such ,when he removed old screen there was just the trim retaining strips (after he peeled the old trims away,i could see no evidence of spacers as such.He used a new set of external trims mitred to size all in all a very good job .By the way the screen was a Tripplex standard OE replacement,top tint etc . Nick S4s

I had my screen replaced today by Auto Windscreens took them 8 weeks to manufacture a screen but fitting was very straight forward and a very neat job .......plus i changed all my instrument binacle bulbs absolute breeze highly recommended,£60 excess worth every penny .

Easy job ,hardest part is removing undertray,i top mine up once a year.Halfords is my friend

I emailed yesterday asking about the availability of a part I'm after ............... I also had the unfortunate experience of calling them a few months ago............ Do they speak English.......................

Next topic ,'How i cracked my windscreen'