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Yes the original coluur is much darker than the sun exposed sections. Attached is a photo of the door jam which must be close to the original colour. The top of the dash is much lighter but not as light as it appears in the photo due to sun glare off it. The Crypton Henry Sepia Velvet from housefabric.com in the US appears to be close to the unfaded material in my car

Thanks for the reply. There are a couple of colours that are reasonably close so I will follow up and get some swatch samples if I can cheers Rohan

I am told this tan marcasite trim is no longer available. Does anyone know of even some small sections that I could use for repair of the door trim on my S1 shown in the photos. After 45 years the Australian sun and wear and tear means this small area is failing while the rest of the car trim is in OK condition still.

Yes the parts manual lists front springs with federal springs as different from domestic / ROW and with an original and replacement spring number for each. No information provided on why the replacement spring but maybe to do with air con installtion ? Federal springs I presume are about a ride height increase to meet headlight dimension above ground USA regulations The rear springs are similalry different for Federal versus Domestic / ROW but only one version of each. I would guess the differences will be in free length only that the springs are set to so you could accomodate with suitable shims if ride to low or with getting the springs free length reset if ride to high. Maybe Lotus Marques will know more about the differences if they will tell you. cheers Rohan

Lotus Marques lists the following specifications for S1 and S2 springs. https://lotusmarques.com/info/technical/30-lotus-esprit/1357-lotus-esprit-s1-s2-road-spring-specifications

i got my S1 when it was 4 years old back in 1982. The battery was just sitting in the box in the rear floor and the cover was just sitting on top. The standard battery clamp and rods that run across the battery from side to side was missing and does not line up with the battery cover holes that run fore aft to the left side of the battery looking from the rear in any case. I am not sure how the cover was orginally held down if it ever was. i added a couple of extrat threaded rods to hold the cover down and lived with it ever since. Recentlly got tired of having to remove the cover to access the battery isolator mounted on the terminal and hook up the battey maintainer or a jump starter so decided to remake the system. I made up a new alunimium bracket to hold down both the battery and battery cover. Also added a Anderson SB50 plug for hooking up a jump starter or a battery charger. Also added a battery isolated switch in the floor board next to the battery. i used a odessy PC1200 AGM battery which is a perfect fit. I have used a much smaller PC680 Odessy battery in my Elan for many years and they have lasted 10 to 12 years. Trimmed off the threaded rods to match the wing nuts on the cover after the photo cheers Rohan

I made a bottom plate and 1/4 moon shaped top washer as you can see in my photos to reinforce the alloy ears on the mount after slotting and this has worked fine for me

The hole spacing on the orginal engine mount base plate that bolted to the chassis was 97.3mm centre to centre. The replacement mounts i used came with 90mm centre to centre spacing so I had to slot them by about 3.7mm outwards at each end

First thing I would do is replace those inner bushes as they look badly distorted. The arms themselves look standard to me. The outer bushes are probably also needing replacement. cheers Rohan

I have seen it before in other cars where a rubber hose joins an alloy pipe. In cold weather the alloy pipe shrinks more than the steel clamp and the clamp loosens a little and leakage can occur

The holes were slotted a few millimetres outwards to align with the existing chassis bolt holes

The -10 version has the same load rating as the one I used and dimensionally would fit. It is slightly shorter so would need a thicker spacer under it. Worth a try. cheers Rohan

This is the catalogue page for the mounts from Mackay Rubber which is an Australian company. There will be something very similar made by European or US companies. I ended up using the softer of the 2 mounts https://www.mackayrubber.com.au/_files/ugd/17eaaa_76b4be1c2af249399d39aebe08ec33a3.pdf cheers Rohan

I used a commonly available industrial machinery mount to replace the orginal mounts. Did it around 35 years ago and no problems since. You can see a small cutout was required in the engine support arms to clear the way for the top bolt insertion. Metal plates and washers were added to support the alloy lower mount bolt ears that were slotted slightly and bolted to the orginal lower chassis bolt holes used for the bracket the orginal mount was bolted to. The mounts came in two stiffnesses, I tried both and used the softer one. The harder one transmitted to much engine vibration to the chassis. These hold the engine much more stable and no need for an add on stabiliser bar.

My black S1 has gold wheel centres and white decals