rgh0

Yes the original coluur is much darker than the sun exposed sections. Attached is a photo of the door jam which must be close to the original colour. The top of the dash is much lighter but not as light as it appears in the photo due to sun glare off it. The Crypton Henry Sepia Velvet from housefabric.com in the US appears to be close to the unfaded material in my car

Thanks for the reply. There are a couple of colours that are reasonably close so I will follow up and get some swatch samples if I can cheers Rohan

I am told this tan marcasite trim is no longer available. Does anyone know of even some small sections that I could use for repair of the door trim on my S1 shown in the photos. After 45 years the Australian sun and wear and tear means this small area is failing while the rest of the car trim is in OK condition still.

Yes the parts manual lists front springs with federal springs as different from domestic / ROW and with an original and replacement spring number for each. No information provided on why the replacement spring but maybe to do with air con installtion ? Federal springs I presume are about a ride height increase to meet headlight dimension above ground USA regulations The rear springs are similalry different for Federal versus Domestic / ROW but only one version of each. I would guess the differences will be in free length only that the springs are set to so you could accomodate with suitable shims if ride to low or with getting the springs free length reset if ride to high. Maybe Lotus Marques will know more about the differences if they will tell you. cheers Rohan

Lotus Marques lists the following specifications for S1 and S2 springs. https://lotusmarques.com/info/technical/30-lotus-esprit/1357-lotus-esprit-s1-s2-road-spring-specifications

i got my S1 when it was 4 years old back in 1982. The battery was just sitting in the box in the rear floor and the cover was just sitting on top. The standard battery clamp and rods that run across the battery from side to side was missing and does not line up with the battery cover holes that run fore aft to the left side of the battery looking from the rear in any case. I am not sure how the cover was orginally held down if it ever was. i added a couple of extrat threaded rods to hold the cover down and lived with it ever since. Recentlly got tired of having to remove the cover to access the battery isolator mounted on the terminal and hook up the battey maintainer or a jump starter so decided to remake the system. I made up a new alunimium bracket to hold down both the battery and battery cover. Also added a Anderson SB50 plug for hooking up a jump starter or a battery charger. Also added a battery isolated switch in the floor board next to the battery. i used a odessy PC1200 AGM battery which is a perfect fit. I have used a much smaller PC680 Odessy battery in my Elan for many years and they have lasted 10 to 12 years. Trimmed off the threaded rods to match the wing nuts on the cover after the photo cheers Rohan

I made a bottom plate and 1/4 moon shaped top washer as you can see in my photos to reinforce the alloy ears on the mount after slotting and this has worked fine for me

The hole spacing on the orginal engine mount base plate that bolted to the chassis was 97.3mm centre to centre. The replacement mounts i used came with 90mm centre to centre spacing so I had to slot them by about 3.7mm outwards at each end

First thing I would do is replace those inner bushes as they look badly distorted. The arms themselves look standard to me. The outer bushes are probably also needing replacement. cheers Rohan

I have seen it before in other cars where a rubber hose joins an alloy pipe. In cold weather the alloy pipe shrinks more than the steel clamp and the clamp loosens a little and leakage can occur

The holes were slotted a few millimetres outwards to align with the existing chassis bolt holes

The -10 version has the same load rating as the one I used and dimensionally would fit. It is slightly shorter so would need a thicker spacer under it. Worth a try. cheers Rohan

This is the catalogue page for the mounts from Mackay Rubber which is an Australian company. There will be something very similar made by European or US companies. I ended up using the softer of the 2 mounts https://www.mackayrubber.com.au/_files/ugd/17eaaa_76b4be1c2af249399d39aebe08ec33a3.pdf cheers Rohan

I used a commonly available industrial machinery mount to replace the orginal mounts. Did it around 35 years ago and no problems since. You can see a small cutout was required in the engine support arms to clear the way for the top bolt insertion. Metal plates and washers were added to support the alloy lower mount bolt ears that were slotted slightly and bolted to the orginal lower chassis bolt holes used for the bracket the orginal mount was bolted to. The mounts came in two stiffnesses, I tried both and used the softer one. The harder one transmitted to much engine vibration to the chassis. These hold the engine much more stable and no need for an add on stabiliser bar.

My black S1 has gold wheel centres and white decals

Certainly need to replace the radius arm bushings judging from the photo. For your camber problem. I would check the lower link rubber bushings also as their failure can cause the negative camber. The double row bearing movement is unlikely to cause the issue unless you can see the brake disk has moved from a central postion in the caliper and can move in and out signficantly. Wear in the Uni joints can also cause, it but you should be able to see movement in the joints. Failure of the hub bearing can also cause it but you should be able to see movement in the hub versus the hub shaft if thats the case. cheers Rohan

The round tooth pulley is quieter and wear rate is lower are the main advantages. The chance of slippage may be lower but if properly tensioned and unworn slippage is not an issue with eith belt

I cant find any standard industrial bearing from the major suppliers ( FAG,Timken, SKF, NTN, Koyo ) that matches the original Citroen dimensions. Has anyone purchased the referenced SJS bearing and measured its dimensions ? i have asked SJS but not recieved a reply yet cheers Rohan

Thanks The Citroen special SKF bearing appears to combine the width of the SKF 3206A bearing at 23.8mm, with the OD of the SKF 3306A bearing at 72mm to give the basic dimensions of 30mm ID 72mm OD and 23.8mm width. The ID for both these bearings is 30mm Now I can start hunting for alternatives as those made by no name brand bearing makers that the usual companies appear to supply I cannot trust to last. An alternative maybe fitting a 72mm OD x 62mm ID sleeve into the housing to accept the smaller 62mm OD of the SKF 3206A compared to the original 72mm Another alternative would be to modify the housing bearing clamping arrangement to accomodate the greater 30.2mm width of the SKF 3306A bearing compared to the original 23.8mm. I dont know how much thread exists on the threaded clamping bush to accomodate a wider bearing but this change may be possible with minimal work. I presume Harry Limmen does one of these options ? Has anyone bought a gearbox or modified output shaft housing from him to comment on the changes made in this area due to the lack of this special bearing? Unfortunately its not viable to ship a gearbox to him from Australia for rebuilding cheers Rohan

So from the list of multiple manuals in the link posted I presume the data is in a DS manual as this used the same 5 speed gearbox as the SM at least in regards to these bearings ? I will dig into the DS manuals to find the reference to the bearing dimensions. later ...... Appears its basic dimensions are 30mm ID 72mm OD and 23.8mm width. By the way it is incorrectly described by everyone including these citroen manuals as a "double row ball bearing" when in fact it is a "double row ANGULAR contact ball bearing" which is a vital difference when considering the thrust loads it carries cheers Rohan

thanks

Cannot find that bearing even in the 1000+ page SKF catalogue ! If possible can you measure the critical dimensions so i can broaden my search for equivalents and post a couple of photos of the SKF bearing. i.e. ID of inner race, OD of outer race, width of inner and outer races, radial depth of the inner and outer race flanges cheers Rohan

Thanks for that information. i will start seraching for those or an equivalent cheers Rohan

It looks like the original output shaft double row ball bearing used by Lotus to carry the upper drive shaft longitudinal loads was an unknown "Polish" bearing. Someone surely must have taken a photo of it that shows the maker and number when pulling apart a transmission? I am also looking to source this bearing or an alternative before I need to replace them. due to wear causing excessive axial float in the driveshaft that also acts as the upper suspension link. SJS list this bearing as available (others list it as NLA) but I am reluctant to buy no name brand bearings, has any one bought this bearing from SJS ? cheers Rohan

Thank you. I was politely asking for an answer on the original bearing manufacturer data as neither Lotus or Citroen actually made this bearing and I apologise if my responses appeared terse when data not related to my question was given and I asked further questions Interesting that others believe it is NLA and but it appears to be easily supplied. However you now quote a Citroen bearing number not the orginal manufacture bearing name and number which is what I am looking for but I gess I can start searching on that did some searching From photo of an original bearing being sold under the citroen part numuber it appears to be a SKF 30208 J2. However the dimensions dont match what you quoted and its a tapered roller not a double row ball bearing ? So the data still apears to be inconsistent but I will continue looking cheers Rohan