freshcut

The flap you're referring to is the fresh air door. On your center console you should see two yellow buttons under the HVAC controls between the two windows switches. If you press the one of the left (looks like a car with a "U" in the middle of it), This controls the opening/closing of the fresh air door. The other control, on the right is for the heated mirrors and rear window. If you push the recirc/fresh button in, it should close this flap giving you recirculated air which is best in warm weather when operating the A/C as you're not constantly cooling hot outside air, but keeping the cool air inside the car cold.

for the RMS, you should be able to do it without removing the oil as most of it should remain in the pan, however, seeing that it will provide a large enough opening to allow foreign material to be accidentally introduced (hopefully unlikely, but chances always exist), I'd suggest an oil change just to be on the safe side. Remember, oil is cheap insurance. Anytime I open an engine or gearbox, I always replace fluids as a few extra bucks to ensure fresh fluid is much more economical than an expensive repair due to oversight later down the road.

If it's like the V8, the bearing is pressed into the rear of the crankshaft, along with some loctite adhesive of some number which escapes me for the moment. I found the easiest and cleanest way to go about it was to use shredded bits of paper (taken from the discharge bin of my paper shredder), soaked in water and packed into the pilot bearing hole. Find a suitable punch or in my case, I used a socket and extension to drive the paper mash in, keep adding more paper as needed. It took me less than 5 minutes to remove the bearing and any residual paper wiped out much easier than grease would have (which is the "standard" method most use). AS I recall, taking my time and occasional breaks here and there, the whole process of GB removal, clutch replacement and reassembly took somewhere around 6-8 hours with help.....would have been 4-6 without the help, but was my step-dad assisting me, and couldn't exactly tell him to go away.

Not a fix, but maybe a direction to look at. Had same situation on mine some time back. Fortunately the problem went away, but I too could hear the stepper motor cycle about every 2-3 seconds, however mind would do it in the "blend" mode which aimed between defrost and floor. If I recall, it did this for about a week until I our cold snap went away, and so far this year it's not done the same thing. Perhaps a bit of cleaning in the mode switch might be in order (bad contact causing it to cycle?).

As I understand it, she is suing because the security video was leaked. As I have come to understand only charges have been filed against the private security company that allowed this to happen, not the mall in which it took place in. Personally I find it incredibly interesting that the timing of this "accident" and her pending theft lawsuit are so closely related in time. Almost as if she's planned this to happen as a way to collect money to pay the lawsuit resulting from her stupidity for steeling from the co-worker. I can respect that she was embarassed over the whole tripping into the fountain thing and as others have said, no one would have a clue who she is if she hadn't come forward with this.

Live here in the States, and I had no idea about people keeping cameras on their dash. In fact, last I knew it was illegal here in California to have anything on your dash that obstructs your view (I think a camera would qualify as obstruction of view). I guess I'll have to check and see if that's changed.

Not to split hairs here, but if she's wanting new, how long do you plan to keep vs. what length warranty does it offer? I'd imagine maintenance costs and frequency are roughly equal for both the Porsche and Evora, so shouldn't be any surprises there. Unless your planning to keep significantly longer than the warranty period, I'd say go for the Evora.

I second (or third or whatever) the opinion of worn/failed seals. Generally speaking and assuming all adjustments are correct, if a clutch is worn, you end up with serious slipping issues rather than issues getting in/out of gear (or if bad enough ability to shift into any gear without pushing the clutch and with engine running). If your having trouble getting into/out of gear then you have an adjustment issue or hydraulic issue which prevents the pressure plate from releasing the clutch disk as a result of insufficient clutch lever travel. Basically the whole purpose of the clutch is to engage and disengage engine power to the transmission, pushing the clutch pedal disengages this power through a series of hydraulics levers and springs. I agree with Travis in removing the slave cylinder and pushing the clutch pedal several times in order to bottom out the slave on the snap ring. If the slave bottoms out and you have a VERY HARD pedal, chances are the seals are ok. Don't force it beyond this point, but use it as a test. If you can pump the pedal several times without acheiving this rock hard pedal or it only feels stiff but will still push to the floor, then you can just about guarantee a worn seal somewhere in your master/slave cylinders or a significant air bubble. If it does feel rock hard, maintain pressure on the pedal (just to hold position) and see if the pedal continues to move to the floor. This would indicate a leaking seal, most likely at the slave. It would also be helpful to have an assistant to inspect the slave and master cylinder areas during this test to check for evidence of leaks. One note that helps is when bleeding the clutch, DO NOT PUMP! This atomizes the air in the line making it very difficult to completely remove all the air. You should crack open the bleeder before pushing the pedal. This forces large amounts of air/fluid out, and then retighten the bleeder before releasing the pedal. Repeat as needed. *note* this can also assist when bleeding brakes.

Is it just me, or do others feel that rather than filing a lawsuit, this lady should be posted to a kiosk erected near this particular fountain with the youtube video of her fall playing on several screens holding a sign explaining the dangers of walking and texting. I can respect her embarassment over this dumb move, and the fact that the video has been so publically distributed but to find it necessary to sue over it? If I were her, I'd be suing ABC broadcasting for putting a segment together that makes her look even more foolish than falling into a fountain. As for the lawyer representing this woman, umm, can we say "ambulance chaser"? He's just doing it to make a buck and get some publicity. It really makes me ashamed to know that somewhere WAY down my family tree I'm undoubtable related to this woman.

Replaced mine a couple years ago (never use it so replacement was more cosmetic than anything), and as I recall, it was just a standard 24" wiper refill that I picked up. I do recall that I picked it up at a local Autozone, but I'm sure nearly any parts store should carry just the rubber blade portion.

Figures in standard 128oz US gallon. '02 V8 here...gets a reasonably decent, IMO, 15 around town, and near 25 on highway (24.5 to be honest). Not much worse than my '06 Cooper S which got 20/30. Plenty more power than the Mini as well. Quite happen with the performance both in power and milage when compared to other cars in similar class. Driving style is VERY reserved. To be honest, engine rarely sees above 5K, which I'm sure attributes to the better milage.

I understand that if LED lights are used in place of standard incandecent bulbs, the relay for turn signals also needs to be replaced with a solid state module. The problem is that LED lights don't draw enough current to give the proper flash timing with a standard flasher relay resulting a rapid flash (a way to notify drivers that they have a turn indicator bulb thats out). If the original relay (or other similar electromechanical device) was used this would explain your rapid flash problem. I doubt an alternator voltage regulator would be related as that has little to do with turn signal operation (well, not directly). If it is in fact the voltage regulator overdriving your electrical system (putting out excessive voltage) I would highly recommend changing that out as the rapid turn signal flashing would be the least of your worries, as the first thing that comes to mind is overvolting the Engine ECU which is never a good thing. Some have had results wiring in a resistor at each turn signal bulb to fool a standard relay into thinking there is sufficient current draw for normal operation.

Must admit that I too am a traitor. I can't quite put my finger on it, but something about the Esprit just doesn't strike with me. I do know that the rear seems lacking in some way (or perhaps has too much going, not sure). For now, seeing that none of these have been put into production, I can only assume that there will be a few revisions done to each model before making it onto the showroom floor. I will say however that if I were to choose one model right now, I have to go with the group and say the Elan captures my vote as well. I'm going to remain optimistic however before plopping any cash down for any model in the hopes that the final design gets everything right for me (or at least doesn't leave me scratching my head).

my understanding is that main is "high" and dip is "low". For us in the US when running our high (or main), we have all 4 lamps on.

I do have to say I really miss the days when cars were simple to work on and you didn't have to have a much more than a basic set of tools. As for remembering....can't say I do as we've not imported Vauxhalls here (that I'm aware of, unless they were rebadged as GM/Chevy models).