C43

good write up. You can simplify it a bit by lifting the front and rear bars to axle height and then just measuring from the string to the centre of the wheels to make sure the bar are set equal left and right. Then just measure from the string to the front and rear of the wheel and do the maths to get the toe. In this way you don't need the bars added each side of the wheels. Probably better to use fishing wire if doing it this way as its thinner. I know this method seems a bit crude but F1 has been using that method for the last 40 years at least and some teams still do it. Chrisitan

dont forget you need to change the sliding bush in the upright. this will probably be seized also and it shouldn't be..

looks lush..

bugger mine is offside. Should have done it when I was re hanging the door. Did not bother as I never listen to the radio. cheers Christian

thanks, I have already removed and re fitted 4 doors, did not fancy doing the job again... great instructions for sure. cheers Christian

quick question, do you need to remove the door to fit these? thanks Christian

you can use a press if you have access to one (or at least it worked for me)

just went through the same issue. I just bought a new arm from SJ but it was not cheep...

looks nice in gold. Did them gold on my brothers car and you can see them from the rear, look really cool on an S2.

nice job. you can get them pretty good. I would like to change the bush on the gear lever end but I just can't get the gear knob off, I thought these were just screwed on but I think mine has been glued as an earlier bodge.. C43

Thanks for the photo, I thought i saw and esprit then I was not so sure. C43

I did not use hot water. Obviously there is quite a lot of grease around from fitting the sliding pins but that can be a pain. Just don't use a sharp tool as it will split the rubber.

I have fitted the kit from SJ on two Esprits in the last year. Both needed some persuasion but went on after a bit of work and look good now. good luck Christian

exactly what I was going to say. if you want to get technical look up Euler buckling theory...although the buckle might be so big it takes it out the range of the equation looking at the photos.

I changed the oil on mine this weekend. The oil I took out was perfect, no white sludge. Guess the 1/8" oil at the end of the dip stick is a feature not a fault after all. cheers C43

I also have a 1984 Esprit turbo that I recently imported from South Africa and it also showed 1/8" of milky residue on the end of the dip stick, think I will be draining the oil and giving it a decent check.. C43

Hi looking at it your mechanism has been bodged too much to fit the new lever and get revere inhibit back in. There was a new mechanism on e bay a few months ago, perhaps someone here bought it and never used it? good luck C43

my brothers had no lift for reverse. When we took to lever to pieces it had been bodged so there was no longer the roll pin that has to slide over the gate to get reverse. I think broken gear levers can happen and if new parts are not fitted the repair looses the lift gate. I would strip the linkage down and replace with new parts, the change should be sweet after that. there is quite a lot of info on here about fitting stiffer bushes (some of it form me). Having fitted both standard and stiffer bushing to different cars I would go with standard but new bushes as this gives a positive engagement and light change. C43

looks amazing. I have a 84 turbo in black, I am guessing the bumpers and rear louvre panels (engine cover) on that should be satin black as well? Mine are gloss black but it has been resprayed. Christian

If its the same as my 1984 turbo then check the bush in the rhs engine mount that the gear change mid pivot mounts in. Mine was shot after 70k miles and its a right pain to do in situe. Costs about £5 for a new one. I would also check all the rubber bushes in the gear linkage at the same time as cost peanuts and are usually pretty worn out. Christian

yes direct from Google, I thought it would be so bad it would be a joke. I managed to get it disconnected from the calliper end last night so have lifted the end and made a funnel to dribble the oil down as you suggest. I am now stripping down the calliper to see what has failed there. cheers Christian

Hi Wolfgang that was my plan but as I can't disconnect it from the calliper end and can't pull it through from the hand brake lever end I can't pull one end up high and soak it in WD40. I have sprayed WD40 down each end but need gravity on my side. The reason I can't disconnect it from the calliper is the lever on the calliper has stuck in the on position and I can't get the nipple through the hole in the calliper to disconnect it. Does that make sense (not sure it does)? Lets try that with Google Translate: Das war mein Plan, aber da ich es nicht vom Bremssattel abziehen kann und es nicht durch das Handbremshebelende ziehen kann, kann ich kein Ende hoch hochziehen und es in WD40 einweichen. Ich habe WD40 an jedem Ende gesprüht, aber die Schwerkraft auf meiner Seite. Der Grund, warum ich ihn nicht vom Bremssattel trennen kann, ist, dass der Hebel auf dem Bremssattel in die Ein-Position geklemmt ist, und ich kann nicht die Nippel durch das Loch in der Bremssattel, um es zu trennen. Perhaps I will give that to my children as a test as they are both doing German exams this week Anyway hopefully you get the gist. Thanks for the help. cheers Christian

Hi. Makes sense, I think its probably the same on my S3. thanks Christian

I took all the rubber joints out on my brothers S2. There is so much vibration from the engine anyway figured you would not notice a little form the gear change. Can't say as I can feel any buzzing. I just ready a report on the 410 Evora and they like the gearchange on it. I have a 2011 Evora NA which is meant to be poor but with mileage it is pretty good now. C43 BTW I believe one of the forum members is doing EN36 gearsticks and door pins, does anyone know who it is as I need to change both on my turbo. I have lost his link.

I have lost my link but I did manage to get them through my local bearing supplier. On our S2 the bearing housing was a tight fit in the gear linkage which prevented them turning freely. Also they were too loose on the pivot bolt so they are not really working as intended. In future I would ream out the gear linkage to get the correct fit and replace the pivot bolts with the correct size (I am guessing change from imperial to metric or vice versa). They do make a good difference especially with the rolling element bearing fitted to the central rocker. The gear change on our S2 is really nice now. C43