slewthy

Thanks everyone. Yes indeed, push rod tight so preloaded. Adjusted and can now be rotated. Will go out for a trial once I retax. And, quite right, easy to get without disconnecting anything. So does this mean there is no real need to split the floor?

Nice Atwell! Unfortunately, my S3 boot floor is different. It is shaped around the rear engine bay and is difficult to remove without damaging the paint around the inner hatch mouldings, hence my desire to obviate the need to remove the engine bay part in the first place. it wont lift up in the way you have illustrated. I wondered if a split floor would solve that. I might get a new pushrod and then I will know its correct. I think the confusion earlier in the thread comes from our different definitions of clutch engaged or not. JonWat is correct - its clutch slip I have experienced. In my understanding, this means lack of clutch engagement but that not be everyone's interpretation. this means that, for whatever reason, the clutch actuator system remains engaged when it should be completely slack. It could be that my push rod is worn but that I have over compensated at the adjustment on the fork. this is what I will look at.

Thanks chaps. I said disengaging. My bad I meant engaging!! I replaced the old red hose when I first got the car with a PNM braided one, perhaps 10+yrs ago. It was a very hot day though.... When I replaced the slave cylinder, I think I may have 'fiddled' with the push rod distance adjustment as the rod was quite floppy - my thought was that it may now be too tight, so not fully releasing the plate. I need to check the measurement, 22mm I think it should be. I'm sure its all doable without removing the boot floor.

Well, I replaced the clutch master and slave last year, all seemed well but towards the end of my final run last year, I got the impression the clutch was not fully disengaging. Figured I needed to take a relook at it all and , yes bleed. Just thought, 'whilst the boot floor is out'......

Its time to get the S3 up and out again. To do so, I need to do some clutch adjustment, so,. (having no lift) I need to remove the rear boot floor and separate the box of electrical mystery attached to it, engine side. No biggy but I recall someone here talking about this issue and the solution being to split the floor. But I'm not sure if this is the same reason to do it or not. Also not sure how I might safely go about it. Any advice/memory etc gratefully received - I did search but failed.😐. I might have done a 'man look' of course......

When you bury them, I recommend a generous sprinkling of coriander. Love it.

I once had reason to spend some time on BritModeller.com Now there are some people with serious time and attention to detail. Very skilled indeed. I say, if it gives you pleasure and soothes your head, go for it. The kit looks very good quality. Do they become collectable when built?

Does 'super detail' mean putting scuffs where your foot catches the front door panel when getting out of the car? Or maybe dead flies on the front.

In that documentary, he says that other ?younger? Steeplejacks were not so bold until they had had 4 or 5 pints at lunchtime and then they were happier going up the stacks! Or words to that effect.

I'm currently restoring a Citroen DS23 so I neither have garage space nor money!!

Did check. No MOT. No Insurance and SORN. Number plate itself could be good - starts M15 Its in a nice area but as the image shows, the house has not really been looked after either compared to all the others around it.

Parked in a quite nice area on a pavement too short for it.

Can you specify make of graphite spray or a link please?

Another vote for satin here. redid mine 12 yrs ago. Still satin.

Maybe it was once a kit car?