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Carlos Fandango

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About Carlos Fandango

  • Birthday 03/06/1974

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  • Name
    Andrew
  • Car
    1986 S3 Turbo

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  1. £60 for £15,000 agreed value, fully comp. I've got to say I'm reasonably pleased with that. These are figures converted from NZ $ but still pretty good.
  2. I know this may sound daft but are you sure it's been ripped out? It 's so small that it could still be up behind the dash hidden in all the wiring as it's quite easy and commomn for them to come out of the t-pieces.
  3. Spandex trousers? Girlie hair? Kimbers' new boyfriend? http://www.satelitemusical.net/thedarkness.html
  4. Very nice. Are the wheels a straight swap or were any mods required?
  5. 30mpg? Is the plan to stick to the motorways and not go above 55mph?
  6. If it's a genuine 206 SP then it probably is worth a fair bit. However, it looks nothing like one and reminds me of those MR2 conversions. Only worse. They should look like this: www.conceptcarz.com/vehicle/z9146/Ferrari-206-SP.aspx although a quick google images search throws up some nicer examples as this colour scheme is a bit odd. One of the pettiest looking donkeys in my opinion. A sort of baby version of the 330P4.
  7. Filled up with the good stuff last week for 139.9ppl. On the plus side I changed job last month so my monthly commuting fuel cost has dropped from £250 to nothing. Leaves plenty of cash for the Esprit.
  8. My S3T doesn't have the half bell housing. As John says, the body of the starter motor blocks the hole completely. In fact the one without the half bellhousing is much better as it has less material, which means it's lighter, thereby making your car much faster.
  9. Jack the front of her car up, place some suitably sized bricks or bits of wood under the suspension arms and lower the car back down again. If you've got the size of the blocks just right then the front tyres will not quite be touching the ground but nothing will look out of place. Get the blocks as close to the wheels as possible to help hide them. When she gets in the car she'll rev the nuts off it and wonder why it doesn't move. Award yourself bonus points if she actually calls the AA out without noticing the bricks.
  10. The outside ones should be dipped bean and the inner two the main beam. With my car the dipped beam has only the outer two on and on main beam all four are on. It sounds as though you may have a problem elsewhere as having all 4 on shouldn't be enough to fry the relay. Are all contacts good, correct bulbs etc?
  11. Are the "new" Pirellis really 30 year old technology or are they up to date rubber compound and carcass in the old moulds?
  12. Protyre list 235 / 60 / 15 Pirelli P600s http://www.protyre.co.uk/default.aspx
  13. Same problem with mine - much worse with the windows open. I replaced the plastic hose with some proper fuel hose of the same diameter and the smell went completely. It should last a lot longer than the plastic hose originally used.
  14. Thanks Rolf Turned out the small vacuum pipe that comes out of the vacuum reservior had come out of the first coupling under the engine bay side panel. Re-attached that and then found that the other end had come detached at one of the valves under the dash. All reconnected and toasty now. If only all fixes were that simple.
  15. My heater stopped working the other day and after much trawling through the forums and crawling under the dashboard I am 99% certain that the vacuum hoses are the problem. However, ever since I've owned the car the brake pedal has been rock hard and although initial bite is very good, it requires an almighty shove on the pedal to get the car to stop. I think that my problem might therefore be a bit more than just the heating system vacuum pipes so I want to give the whole thing a check over but my service notes don't have the pictures and diagrams I need. I've taken this photo of my engine: The smaller pipe (no1) coming from the manifold disappears into the right hand side panel just beneath the air filter housing. The bigger pipe (no2) disappears down under the engine. I think that no1 is the brake and heater vacuum pipe but everything have read here says that this gets to the front of the car via the left hand roof channel, not the right. Before I go trying to get the engine bay side panels out to see where the problem is can anyone tell me whether I am following the correct pipe? Last time I had the side panels out I seem to remember that something looking suspiciously like the vacuum reservior was located above the right hand fuel tank. Also, what is the second pipe for? Are there actually separate vacuum lines going to the front for heater controls and brakes or does the heater control tee off the brake one? The service notes suggest that only HC cars have a tee off the brake line for the heater controls whilst mine is an 85 Turbo. I'm stumped.
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