Grahaml

Thanks @Superdavelotus. I replaced the Idle Air Control valve and that sorted it. It's a bit awkward removing the plenum cover etc and when I pulled it off to replace the IAC valve the tube into it was off. I may well have pulled it off when I was removing the plenum but it is possible that it was off before I removed the plenum which would explain things. I replaced the AIC anyway as it was all off and it was fine afterwards. I also replaced a drive shaft seal that had always had a very slight leak in my ownership too and the car is currently up for sale through a dealer in Edinburgh - I thought that might be easier but not so sure as it's still there! Whats did you think the rough idle could have been? Graham

Brilliant piece of software thanks. Hi at long last I got round to trying this great piece of software. Took a wee bit of fiddling and although I tried several different OBD cables, wired and wireless. Bought one as shown in the post from Mightymetro and, I found that (for my windows 10 laptop anyway) the following settings shown in picture -allowed it all to connect up. Might help others? I'm looking at a rough idle, and I did have a couple of codes PO506 (Idle Speed Control - RPM lower than expected) and P1106 (Barometric Pressure - Circuit Range/Performance Problem). I cleared the codes but it is an issue, OK driving but takes longer than expected turning over on key to start and then not reliable tickover initially. They car is not used much 500-1000 miles PA so not a pressing issue but I'd like to get it fixed. I've had the car 8 years almost - by far the longest I've owned a car and thinking about maybe selling it so another good reason to make sure everything is right on it. I'm going to trace through all the O2 sensor wiring connections, the intake air connections and possibly (if i need to...) replace the IAC valve. Graham Oh - an afterthought... Biggest issue I have is understanding the data provided. I know the obvious stuff, and trawling through internet / TLF forums I'm picking up more but for me anyway, and possibly many others it would be great to see somewhere an "Idiots Guide" to what all the readings are, what they should be and what might cause them not to be "right". Does anyone know where I might find something like this? Thanks

Gonzalo was very helpful with me and his YouTube video was a brilliant guide.

I've an android phone. I tried lots but the best (easiest) was one called Easy Tension by Hutchinson

Update: Sorry for the delay - bad weather knocked out the electrics to the garage so no light for a couple of weeks - then other stuff held me up. However - pleased to report back that utilising the advice from Gonzalo (many thanks) it was pretty straightforward to recover - although a bit time consuming. Took the boot liner out for access, removed the airboxes - for access to the cam covers, Took the plenum off then one of the cam covers so I could see the cams. It was 360 degrees out as I suspected - but I really just couldn't tell that the Tolerance pins were bit fully in without seeing that. Moving the crank to the safe position, rotate the cams until they lined up properly with the setting pins in place it was much easier to see whee I was. That was the RH bank - I didn't have to take the cam cover off the LH bank as I knew what to expect (feel for) after doing the RH bank. Access was a challenge as you all know but got the new blue belts fitted OK - tensioning was not at all easy as it was easy to overtension then you need to start again - rotating the crank fully - lots of clambering into the engine bay - then out and under the car (repeat as necessary!!) However - utilising an app on my phone I was able to get consistent results within tolerance. I rechecked the cam positions, rechecked the tensions etc - all good. Yesterday finished putting the covers back on (even that wasn't easy with the limited access) - fitted the new aux drive belt, and checked all the connections I had removed or disturbed, and - it started fine. Today I did a wee bit more, refitted the airboxes, partially refitted the boot liner (still to be fully bolted down, topped up the coolant - I'd lost a bit with the header bottle lying loose and low and cleaned around the engine bay and gearbox. There were a few errors showing on OBD reader - Cam position sensor and a few others - probably as I'd started it without the air filters initially and I'd rotated the cams independent of the engine. Cleared them and all seems well. Having done it once - despite the difficulties I would definitely do it again - much quicker and simpler after the experience gained! Many thanks for the advice

Many thanks all. After my initial shock I'd calmed down and I believe it's all recoverable. The car isn't in gear - I checked that first with hope in my heart- but no..,, Thanks for the suggestion Gonzalo. I have disc printed already in preparation to check the timing belt tension so I'll follow your advice. I'm still a bit mystified about how I could have got it 360 degrees out - I did try the pins 360 opposite from what I eventually used but exposing the cams will let me see for sure. Maybe the cams were mis-time d enough to stòp the pins fully inserting - I'll see though. I had already taken the plugs out anyway. I'm optimistic about it being a relatively straightforward fix now -turned over slowly by hand (there's not much access to do anything else) I wouldn't have expected to do any damage. Could do with getting it done though .. Might be a wee while until it's all done but I'll post when its finished Thanks again all.

Thanks - he gave me encouragement to do it with the engine in place - he also gave me the exact dimensions of the tolerance and setting pins as well as the crank locking key and the tension adjuster tool -so I could get them made up here. Very helpful guy - I might drop him a note anyway.. Thinking about it now - I'm not too concerned - I think I can do it with the engine in place: Take the cam covers off, move (might need to remove and refit) the camshafts until they are in the correct position, lock them up, check the belt is fitted properly - then finish the job (put it all together again. Sounds easy when I put it like that !! We will see!! As I said I have the manual so I will just take my time - with the cam covers off I will see what I did wrong and why it happened. I think it will be next week until I get a chance to try it though - maybe a few hours on Saturday though.

Well I put it off a long time (but not many miles). Had a go at changing cambelts on my V8 - engine in-situ. Definitely do-able but it sure is limited access at the front of the engine - made worse by all the coolant pipes and various tubes and wiring!! I got timing pins made up to exact (lotus) sizes by an engineering firm which saved a few £. It was slow going - lots of time spent getting from under the car -then climbing into the boot (trunk) and lying over the engine - took ages even getting it locked into place. Got the old belts off and new (blue) belts refitted - with lots of scratched, cut and bruised arms and hands - I had to move one or two of the cams a little to align the teeth on the belts - but I believe this is quite normal. Went to turn the engine over by hand a couple of times to recheck the pins but the engine wont turn over more than probably 1/8 of a revolution (45 degrees) before stopping. I checked - nothing external I can see stopping it so I reluctantly wound it back anticlockwise and locked the crank in position again and rechecked the (tolerance) pins would go in. They screwed in but the more I checked (and maybe doubting myself) I am thinking that they didn't go in properly when I changed the belts. I've poked various sized drill bits (4mm and 4.5mm) down and even a bit of thick wire and then tried moving the cams a little by the 18mm nuts on the end to see if I can feel the cams move through the locking holes but I can't. What I'm thinking is that I had the cranks 360 degrees out - on the wrong stroke - and that the pins didn't go into holes on the cams to lock them - but just pressed against the shaft - the did screw in a but but looking again (and again...) at it I'm thinking they should maybe gave gone in further. I did check at the time and was convinced it was OK!! This is despite rotating the crank - testing if the pins went in - didn't think they did so rotating another 360 degrees. So... unless there's a really simple explanation staring me in the face that I'm just not seeing I thing I will need to re-time the cams. So - for the experts here... can I do that without removing the engine. I will if I need to but was hoping to avoid that. Is there anywhere offering a simple guide? I have the workshop manual so I can follow "by the book" if necessary Any other thoughts... Many thanks in avance. Graham

Hi - I haven't a clue to be honest there was no mention of either that I can recall. I just now looked on eBay for "sports cats universal" and this is what came up. Ebay link... I'm not saying these were the ones I fitted but they looked like that. It's worth noting that unfortunately I think I will need to fit proper cats for MOT next year as I only passed this year thanks to a very understanding and helpful (mate) MOT tester. Like a lot of these cars it doesn't get used a lot - about 1K miles a year and so maybe theres other things I could do to get through emmisions test but it was very well warmed up before the test.

yes all was well - not using the car much but I will have a couple of issues to see to over the winter. 1. Cam belts: - I plan to do them myself. Rather than spending £322 on a crank/cam locking and tolerance pin set I have had a set made up by an engineering firm. I plan to do the job with the engine in-situ - no rush although an american guy on Youtube does it in a few hours - I'll take MUCH longer. 2. I need to replace the catalytic convertors. I made up a set myself last year using sports cats (taking your advice Gunter) but they barely scraped through the test this year (thanks to a VERY obliging tester) and I will need to have it fixed properly for the next test in April.

thanks for replies - confirms my view - can't believe the prices for basic bits of metal!! Not too sure if I'd trust the crank positioning to a piece of wood - knowing my luck it would split and I'd end up havonig to re-time the cams as well as replace the timing belts! I'll work something out I'm sure - it's not a job to make a mess of. Graham

I am building up courage to do the belts on my V8 - in situ. I just got a shock when I costed the crank locking tool, the cam locking pins and the camshaft tolerance pins - non standard kit from SJ is £315. Even the crank tool on it's own is £77. They are such basic bits of metal and I feel ripped off if I have to buy them at that cost. My son who works for an engineering company reckons they are 1st year appprentice skill level jobs on a lathe (I reckon I could make them easily myself if had a lathe) so I will see if I can get some made up myself - for free maybe - or at a small cost. Does anyone know (or can you provide) the dimensions I need? I know the important bit of the setting pins is 4.7mm diameter and the tolerance pins are 4.2mm diameter. Do I need the setting pins? I thought they are more for checking the cam timing? I could probably manage with just metal rods of the correct diameter for the cam setting /tolerance pins. What about the crank tool - looking at the manual I might be able to measure the dimensions myself although access looks tight (I havent looked in the car itself yet). Or does this club have tool lending/hire that could help? Thanks

I see what you mean - they are described as double contact whereas the Bosch relays just switch the continuity from 87a to 87. As you sad though (as far as I could see) all the other circuits that the relays serve don't use anything on the 87a terminal so are effectively off until activated - then the circuit switches to the 87 terminal as required. The part of the circuit diagram I uplaoded shows that on the secondary fuel pump relay. Out of the 8 relays in the rear box 6 of them are grey Bosch relays and two were the brown siemens (AMR1088) ones. When I was looking for replacements it seemed to me that these are a very common type - I couldn't find any (except for the ones) I bought that have the twin contacts. If I've missed them somehow and you know where to get them at a good price let me know. My searches found the brown ones used in Landrovers. Car's working though which is the main thing for now - and I've learned a wee bit more...

OK - a little bit of digging showed up what might have been the issue with the relays. while I was looking at the relay in preparation to test them I noticed there was a slight difference in the circuit diagram between the grey Bosch relay and the brown siemens relay. Digging a bit more I see that they are different and I need the brown Seimens type for the fuel pump. The grey Bosch ones keep part of the circuit completed - which I trhink is why the primary fuel pump kept running and the fuel kept being recirculater from the tank - around the fuel rails and back to the tank. Apart from my own ignorance the thing that threw me about the relays is that they all have the same Lotus part number - I spotted that the different relays hasd been mentioned before on the V8 parts cross reference thread which I spotted last night @Günter I've attached some copies from the wiring diagram relating to the fuel pump and injector circuit and from the parts diagram and list. I also checked online on the dereure website and they are still listed as the same part number. http://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=1480&MAK=1&MDL=15&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0 you will see that the grey relay has contact 87a connected and 87 unconnected when the relay is "off" whereas the brown Seimens one both 87 and 87a are unconnected when off and both connected when on. Anyway - I hope this makes sense to you and can help in the future. O've found the correct brown relay is also used oin Landrovers and more easily (and cheaply - probably) got. I've not found another equivalent one. As Gunter stated in the cross reference thread - and when I looked through the wiring diagrams it seems that the primary fuel pump and injector relay is the only circuit that needs the brown relay I've not actually tested them on a meter yet but it looks logical to me ands is why the grey bosch didn't work properly - it kept the fuel pump on when not activated but cut the fuel off when activated and the car would only run for a few seconds until the fuel in the fuel rail was used up. It does seem to be a pretty drastic error in the parts list though?

well - good news. Having a think and doing a bit more research I'd come across someone who'd had a problem with a sticking relay. So I swapped the relay with another one and it all worked fine. The fuel pump stopped running when I switched off and the car kept running when I started it. I'd already ordered a couple of new relays when I discovered the faulty one yesterday. I've had the car running for probably an hour, stopped and restared several times - sorted I think... I didn't have any more time today so I will check the relays later to see what the faults are. What I think .. The original one that was in position C (primary fuel pump and injectors) just wasn't working. the one I swapped into position C was from position G (A.C. Compressor) did open the circuit but stayed open ( probably permanently making a circuit) the one I put in today (from position D (ignition) worked fine (I put the one originally from the A.C. slot into the ignition slot) As you might expect the relays have been replaced at some point previously in the car's history and the one that had been in the fuel pump/injector slot was a seimens (as was the one from the ignition slot that is working now). The rest are Bosch. The replacements I have ordered are Bosch too but that's just because I found them first at a decent price. I'll be back on the road in a couple of days as soon as I refit the boot floor. Easy eh ................ Thanks for all the advice guy - hopefully this little tale might help someone else in the future...