jonwat

Stick a dollop of RTV sealant on the rubber stoppers and let it set so that when you close the cap it's compressing the sealant. That will give enough pressure to pop the flap open when you flick the switch. Cheers, John W

Roger, From SJ Sportscars catalogue CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER Up to 1992 SJ079Q0003 EACH 48.50 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER KIT SJ036Q0001 EACH 7.00 SLAVE CYLINDER 1988 to 1996 SJ082Q0008 EACH 39.00 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER REPAIR KIT SJ082Q0003 EACH 5.48 So you saved seventy quid with the prospect of doing it again next year if you didn't do it quite right, overstreched the seals etc. Good luck John W

It's the piston seals leak & as they're not expensive it's better & easier to replace the cylinder. Cheers, John W

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/lotus/default.asp?storyId=18663

As no one has answered I'll give it my best 1. What makes it stick? It's working in a very hostile environment & the build up of exhaust deposits. 2. Does a sticking gate valve damage the diaphragm? Probably as the diagpragm is trying to force the valve open & it can't. 3. What can be done to stop it from sticking again? Take it apart & clean it. I also understand that it's common practice to keep a hammer in the boot in order to give it a belt when it does stick. Hope this helps. Cheers, John W

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/carreviews/fi...us_2eleven.html Cheers, John W

How can the carburettors be cleaned, is dismounting required? cellulose thinners & no Cheers, John W

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/article4648449.ece Enjoy, John W

I had one break on an '85 S3 back in '92 so replaced it & had the other side break around 6 months later. Easy enough to replace but you'll need a spring compressor & don't forget to loewer to the ground before tightening the wishbone bolts. Cheers, John W

What about removing the glass from your existing tailgate, filling the recess where it used to sit & respraying it??? You could even buy some vents from a kit car shop & fit them. Wouldn't look quite like a replacement tailgate but only purists would know & it would be a hell of a lot cheaper. Cheers, John W

The assistor spring is simply a spring that helps you push the pedal to the floor, i.e. as the pedal comes back up it stretches the spring, but because the pedal moves in an arc, as it reaches the top of it's travel the spring pulls it back down again which means the release bearing isn't preloaded all of the time. I agree with Steve that greasing the splines to stop the clutch plate sticking wouldn't reduce the pressure. As for the hydraulics it's all relative, you'd have to reduce the bore diameter of the master cylinder to reduce the pedal effort but that would mean the pedal would have to travel further to produce the same amount of slave cylinder piston travel. Cheers, John W

I had the assistor spring fitted to my S4s because, as Marcus said, it's way too heavey. If I were you I'd find out why your's is so much heavier than it's supposed to be & get it fixed. Cheers, John W

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/lotus/default.asp?storyId=18549 Cheers, John W

I used to have all of the workshop manuals & they all listed the jet sizes for the carbs, at the front under technical data. If the car was running ok before the floats sank then it should run ok with new floats fitted & adjusted to the correct height (also stated in the workshop manual), are you sure your mechanic knows what he's dealing with?? Cheers, John W

Updated first issue of iMOTOR with an exclusive video of the Lotus Evora, plus a completely new set of pictures : http://dennis.cerosmedia.com/1B487f128968ece012.cde Cheers, John W

Not sure if the link will work but it features the new Eagle & past Lotus http://dennis.cerosmedia.com/1B487f128968ece653.cde Cheers, John W

If she runs too cold you won't get full boost so I doubt the thermostat has been removed. Cheers, John W

I believe synthetic oil has a substance in it which causes the seals to swell & so reduces leaks. I've certainly experienced this whenever I've put synthetic in transmissions. Cheers, John W

Have you compressed the spring with compressors?? Cheers, John W

It's nothing to do with the synchro which is only used when changing gear. It's probably the detent spring/mechanism which holds it in the selected gear. I do agree the rebuild time is fast approaching. Cheers, John W

Thanks for the tip Simon, Cheers, John W

I have a pack of Lotus & Esprit & other pictures from a factory visit by the Lotus Driver's club in June '94. They're free to anyone who would like them, just email me your name & address. Cheers, John W

After a Europa Special followed by four esprits (two S3s, a Stevens Turbo & an S4s) I bought a Boxster S & while it doesn't have the raw power of the S4s it is nicer, easier to drive. Cheers, John W

There's no way you can remove & replace the engine & expect it to run smoothly without rebalancing the carbs. Also, you stated "Little to no difference to idle when plug leads are pulled from either cylinder fed by carb near flywheel." I wouldn't expect both idle jets in number one carb to get blocked at the same time, but if they were, when driving you'd notice a definate performance increase when she moved from the idle to the main jet circuit. Balance the carbs before you start dismanteling them, it only takes a few minutes & will eliminate or prove my theory. Cheers, John W

That's an aftermarket pump, probably fitted at the same time as the air filters. It sounds as if there's a problem with it & it's shorting which is causing the wires to get hot as there's no fuse in the supply. I'd rip it out, find the original SU pump & get it replaced. Cheers, John W