fjmuurling

One picture ...........

The above information is indeed for the SE, thx for the additional information Jim

Engine cylinder numbering is done from front to rear: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4. The coil numbering from front to rear: 2 - 3 - 1 - 4. Just connect the corresponding number with the HT leads.

I think you are referring to Olav Glasius, the chairman of the dutch Lotusclub.

Hi Derek, just curious, but do you have some oilleakage at the camshaft pulley bolt(s) ?? To be on the safe side when it refitted my campulleys I used some hydraulic sealant on the bolts.

On my SE there are 2 horns with a different length, one is a "D" and the other one is an "E".

Bad door switch??

There are separate manuals for the electrical systems, the ABS and electronic fuel injection systems.

I have all the manuals for my SE, they are their worth their weight in gold. The Workshopmanual is not cheap, SJ list it in their webshop, I'm fairly sure it can be bought from other Lotus parts suppliers. Like you said in another post taking it apart is the easy thing putting it right back together without a manual is an other thing.

Just the gaskets. I did have a problem with one cover a couple of years ago ie not sealing so always leaking. After renewing the gasket 2 times I found out dat the cover was causing the problem. One part of the "sealingface" was recessed compared to te rest of the flange (staight edge and light). In order to rectify the problem (probably caused when removing the old old gasket / cleaning the flange by means of scraping by PO) I stuck some sanding linen on a glass plate with double sided adhesive tape creating a large flat sandingplate which I attached onto my workbench. After this it was only a task of "elbow grease" ie moving the cover over the homemade sanding plate until it was completely flat again.

As far as i know there is no tempsensor in the headertank only a low level sensor. The SE has two temp sensors, one at the waterpump which is for the dashgauge, the ECU uses a sensor in the engineblock. The S4 has the same sensor layout as the SE AFAIK. Your problem is probably a loose / shorted connection at the waterpumpsensor.

Been working on the car today (engine in) and got some unexpected help from my grandson. Returning from the toolbox found him working under the car.

Those tanks do look more than good!

Some more info, from the electrical section MY 1990 and onwards, but i think it will also be applicable to the older cars. Principle Colour Usage Brown - Main Battery feed Blue - Feed from lighting Switch when Headlamps selected Blue/Red - Dipswitch to Dip Beam Blue/White - Dipswitch to Main Beam Red/Black - LH side & tail Lamps feed Red/Orange - RH side & tail Lamps feed Purple - Accesories fused direct from Battery Green - Accesories fused via Ignition Switch Green/Red - LH flasher Lamps Green/White - RH flasher Lamps White - Ignition Control Circuit (unfused) White/Red - Engine cranking Circuits Yellow - Auxiliary Circuits Black - Earth Connections Slate - Window Lift

Yep that is true. Hoses, drier, compressor, oil and expansion valve which are made for r12 are not (well) suited for the use of r134a and need to be replaced / renewed. The r12 molecules are bigger than the r134a ones. Also the operating pressures for r134a are different (higher). There is a document by sanden for changing over from r12 to r134a.

The seals can be damaged (start leaking) when not mounted correctly ie they need to be centered. Some types have a small lip in the the middle of the sealing rubber which takes care of the centering. Some info http://sealshop.eriks.co.uk/t/productbondedseals

The SD 508 Sanden Compressor (original made for R12) has the testconnectors on the back hence no need for testconnectors on the HP /LP Hoses. Later Compressors (SD5H14 made for R134a) had no backplate test connectors, so they were put on the hoses. Are you going to put in R12?? or something else??

There is an old thread about heater panels complete with a pdf for printing on backlight film. I can't find it at the moment. So if you have a correct graphic of the panel it can be printed on backlight film.

The washer A075W4062F is a Washer 5/32 x 3/8 x 21G, (googled the partnumber) which converts into 4 x 9.5 x 0.8 mm which is a standard size M4 washer. The Pop Rivet A075W6069F (=A075W6069Z) is a (googled etc.) 5/32x .37 sized Pop Rivet. conversion into metric gives 4 x 9.4 mm. So the rivet is 4 x 10 mm. Maybe a better solution is to use (if enough space) M4 buttonhead screws in combination with a washer and a nyloc nut all made from stainless steel. Below a link for converting the G(auge dimensions) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_wire_gauge

Looking very good, don't stop posting (at least not till it is finished).

The 95 x 6 (mm) is the right size for the o-ring. Fitted one today, sits fine in the recessed groove in the tank and didn't need excessive force for closing of the locking ring. I did put a little bit of grease on the locking ring in order to reduce the friction between the locking ring and the flange of the fuel pump. As a material i chose viton instead of the standard nbr.

Below is a link with lots of information about helicoils, I used these. There are even helicoils (twinsert) in which you can put another helicoil. The lengths of the helicoils are 1.0d / 1.5d or 2.0d where d = nominal thread diameter of the coil. http://www.boellhoff.de/en/de/fasteners/special_fasteners/thread_technology/helicoil.php

The 90 x 6 (mm) is not the right size, the I.D. Is too small, the cross section size looks ok. Measured the flange in the tank (should have done that before, but didn't expect the old one to shrink in diameter after removal) and the I.D. is 95 mm. The cross section of the old one was oval shaped measuring around 7 by 5 mm so hence the 6 mm for the new one. New Viton o-ring of 95 x 6 is on order, hope this one is the right size.

Does someone know the size of the o-ring (A082L6164F, Parts Manual 44.03D item 6) which is used between the RHS tank and the mounting flange of the in tank fuel pump. Does 90 x 6 mm sound familiar?, my old one is deformed so not sure about the size.

Many thx for the info.