fjmuurling

Hello Glyn, I used the trust MC220G which is the same as the MC2200. I bought this one because its frequency range starts at 20 Hz and has a flexible gooseneck. BTW with TuneIt you can also calibrate the whole with a good pitchfork. Freek Below information I pulled of the Trust website. Technical specifications - Flexible Microphone MC-2200 Flexible Microphone MC-2200 (Silverline Microphone MC220G) Technical Specifications High sensitive condenser microphone; with noise cancellation High quality sound Suitable for every sound card Suitable for video conferencing Impedance 2,2k Ohm Frequency range 20 - 17000 Hz 3.5 mm stereo plug Includes on/off switch Retail box Product size (HxWxD): 1 x 142 x 345 mm Gross weight: 0,19 Kg

Hi Glyn, I can only help you with the home made clavis gauge, you need laptop/computer with mic input, a decent microphone and Tune!it 3.40 software (very cheap and 30 days trial). I you search the forum for Tuneit or Tune!it you get all the info. Freek

As for the belttension, if you have a laptop with a decent mike it is real easy with Tune!it. Do search on the forum and you will find more info. The procedure is on one of the LEW technical pages. Freek

Just a small update, I fixed the play this afternoon. The play did not originate from the upper U/J but it was a little bit of a lose connection between the upper and the lower U/J. Tightening the bolts including renewing of the self locking nuts on the pinching bolts (total 3) solved everything and no more play in the steering system.It took me the whole afternoon for just 3 bolts and nuts. (oops also 5 wheelbolts) Freek

Good Job, The whining is probably coming from the timingbelt which is normal, recheck the belt tension after about 1000 km, (IIRC the spec is to do it at 500 miles). I would replace the tensioner bearing with every belt changen just in case. The bearing is pressfitted to the shaft. Freek. Almost forget but i ordered once an ALDL connector for about $8 at WC Engineering and within a couple of days I received it neatly packed. Great service from John Welch.

Hello Alejandro, It looks like your oilpump is sucking air and not oil. Below are some idea's. 1 - Did you use a new olive ring (made of nylon) on the suction tube ? 2 - Turn the oilpump by hand in order to prime it (involves loosening the timingbelt) in order to avoid possible damage to the engine. 3 - Fill oilfilter with oil before fitting the filter. 4 - Correct oillevel in the sump ?? 5 - broken or damaged suction tube. 6 - Stuck or damaged oilpressure reliefvalve in the aux. housing. 7 - Fill pipes and hose and oilcoolers with oil. Take hoses of from adapter flange (between oilfilter and aux. housing) in order to fill them. Hope some of the idea's may help you. Freek

Hello, I have a little bit of play in the steering system of my car. The play is in the upper U/J. The bearings in the U/J are fine, the play (torsional) is were the short splined shaft is fixed to the lower fork of the U/J. As a new one is not so easy to obtain (you can obtain reconditioned ones and on exchange basis) I was thinking to have mine welded. I would like to have any idea

Hello, About 1 year ago I replaced my steeringrack and the lower U/J. In order to disconnect the lower U/J from the upper I ended up cutting the lower U/J with my dremel, because after 15 years being connected they were mated for life. Basicically I cut a segment out of the upper part of the lower U/J where the splined shaft of the upper U/J is attached to. Be careful that you do not damage the shaft of the upper U/J if the U/J is still OK. When putting everything back the workshop manual provides more than enough informating in order to align the U/J 's etc. I should have replaced the upper one also because I never got all the play out of the steering. Last week I discovered the cause of it. There is some torsional play in my upper U/J and it is not in the bearings. There is some play where the splined shaft is connected to the lower part of the U/J. I'm still thinking if I should replace the U/J or have it welded. Any idea's are welcome. Freek

Hello, It's good to hear that you teamed up. As you were asking any idea's I have one and that is a playback function (numbers and graphical) of recorded logs. Maybe this can also be incorperated into the normal version of Freescan so you can make use of the bigger screen of a laptop or PC. anyway keep up the good work, Freek

I just got an idea (although i haven't tried it) which is remove the crankshaft pulley, put the belt on the pulleys and then put the crankshaft pulley back on while the tensioner is off. Freek

Hello, I had the same problem with the belt for the A/C. For removing the old belt I had to cut it as well. Fitting the new was a tight fit however if you remove the tensioner for the belt the new one can be fitted (it was an original one). 1 - For removal cut the old belt. 2 - Remove the tensioner. 3 - Fit the new belt, put it on pulleys while turning. Same idea for putting a chain on a bicycle. 4 - Fit tensioner and adjust belt tension. Hope this helps, Freek

No, it can be done with the engine in place. Search the forum with the search function for more about the cambelt change. Do switch of the capitals in your posts as it is poor reading and it is associated as not being friendly. Freek

Hello, there are 4 manuals for the 1990 SE. 1 - Electrical sections, all about the electrics in the car. F082T0327J 2 - Service Notes Esprit 1988 - 1992, general manual including torques etc. B082T0327J 3 - Delco Fuel Injection (EMH), engine management. D082T0327J 4 - Parts List 1988 - 1992, has very good exploded views. L082T0325J I bought them from SJSportscars. The number behind each manual is the lotuspartnumber of each of them. Hope this helps as working without them on the car is like being blindfolded running around in a maze looking for the exit. Freek

Hello, try Ramspott & Brandt in Germany (http://www.ramspott-brandt.de/), in their gearbox section they have a lot of bearings. Freek

Last weekend took out the boot of the car in order for fitting of an original lotus translator overhaul kit as well as a Larini exhaust system. When I removed the panel covering the ECU on the righthand side there was an unused 2 pin connector with a black and orange wire and the other wire was if I'm right black. The car is running very fine without any problems. By the way the car is an 1990 Turbo SE. Freek

Hello, Last weekend I just fitted a complete Larini sytem (Cat and silencer) which I bought from Marcus. The installation went without any big problems. After completion started the car and it sounds faboulous. Not too loud but much deeper than the original system. After some test km. I let the whole sytem cool down and retigthened all the bolts. I am very happy with this system and most important the engine runs even better now. Freek

Vauxhall Freek

I just did it myself 2 days ago, the connectors are below the airintake hose so you have to remove it to gain much easier acces. One connector (2pin) was close to the ECU. Don't worry about marking them as they are all different. I found also 2 more unused connectors. Hope this helps. Freek

Hello, Maybe it is possible to go completely digital, mounting the display on the top forward part of the binnacle so it can be read instead of the view being blocked by the steering wheel. I would be very interested if someone has a solution. Freek

Recently I bought the Lotus translator overhaul kit. It looks very good, I still have to put it in the car but i'm waiting for a new exhaust sytem and will do it all in one go, I will let you know the results after fitting the kit. Freek

Hello, I use the same setup except I use Tune!it 3.40 which runs under windows and works very well (I use it to tension the belt on a 4 banger). By the way I got the tip from another V8 owner here on the forum. Freek

Hello Art are you using a serial ALDL cable with an USB serial cable? If so use the LEW converter or use an PCMCIA Serial card (SSP-100 made by quatech) which is wat I use and all is working fine. The problem is that most USB Serial converters don't handle the 8192 baudrate of the ECU very well. Freek

Hello, I had the same problem a while back, the engine died while driving. After changing the fuelpump relay all went well except a week later the same happened again and could not be started anymore. Phoned home to bring me some tools for instant repair. The inertia switch was the problem, so i took off the electrical connector and bypassed the switch with a paperclip which was bent in shape and put in the connector. Drove the car home and ordered a new inertia swith (around 25 euro). After mounting the new switch the car is running fine again. Opened up the old switch and found nothing really wrong with the switch except for dirty contacts. The old switch was never set (reset pin coming out, push to reset) so it was not suspicious the first few times. A few things to check, * is there a signal coming from the ECU to the fuel pumprelay when you turn the ignition key (remove cover from relay and use a multimeter or look at the opened up relay) * Is fuel pump running when you manually activate the fuelpump relay ? * Check Fuse if OK clean contacts. Hope this helps Freek

Front is also easy with a jack, I made some wooden wedges to dive the frontwheels on in order to gain some extra height. Freek

I have the amp in the rear between the two light clusters, with some thick signal cables runining from the front. Freek