fjmuurling

Driving on those roads is more worth than a couple of brakepads!!!!!

If this didn't happen on the circuit than there are some very nice roads where you live !!!!!!!!!!!!

I had something similar with mine as it would cut out all of a sudden without any warning. It could be started after some time,however after acouple of those embarrassing moments starting was not possible anymore. Of course I tried to solve the problem everytime it had happened but without any result. In order to cut a long story short it turned out that the Fuel Cut Off Switch (Crash Switch) was the offending part, it looked okay on the outside (ie it had not been triggered etc) and on the inside (opened it up after replacement). My temporaly fix was unplugging the connector on the switch and using a paperclip as a bridge (some minor remodelling of the paperclip had to be done), and fixing the connector / paperclip assembly in place with an elastic band. Ordered a new swich and everything was fine again. So Darren's (dodge1979) long shot could be right on target. Freek

The ECU just counts the knocks it doesn't do the filtering. The memcal has the electronics for the knocksensor. The memcal "tells" the ECU if a knock has occured.

I would also replace the sparkplugs and fit the correct NGK BPR6EKN sparkplugs.

I would take out the Denso iridium spark plugs and put in the NGK BPR6EKN sparkplugs. If you google / compare pictures of the two sparkplugs you can see they are very different from eachother. The Esprit likes the big "fat" electrodes of the NGK plugs.

Many thx to all of you for info and offered help, I made a call to PNM this morning and ordered a kit from them (positive feedback form mr. oogieboogie and sparky (multiple)). They had a kit in stock and assured me ot was up to the job on a standard SE. @changes: I called helix beginning of this week and they checked their stock and said they were out and didn't know when new one's will (or if) be made. Freek. I hope we all can meet one day and have a beer !!!!!!

It seems the lotus (A082Q6032F) pressure plate is hard to get as nobody (sj / stratton / vdkooi / lotus) has them in stock. helix are also out of stock. Anybody have an idea where i can buy one or have other idea's ? @changes: is your old setup still for sale? Many thx Freek

Sounds like fun, there are a few (actually more than a few)variables for me which have to be right but if everything comes together nicely I would like to join too.

The above mentioned article mentions pressure however, the amount of friction is independant of the apparent contact. See the following article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friction

I found an interesting article about various clutch types: http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/clutch_road_car.html

I think i go for a "hybrid" clutch ie. a lotus pressure plate and release bearing with a helix friction plate. I'm getting the impression that the helix friction plate is better than the lotus oem one. I really like your clutch setup dave, but i'm not sure if it is suitable for my car / driving. The car is just standard (engine, gearbox etc) and my driving style is normal / fast road.

Kumhos: ECSTA SPT KU31 245/50 R16 97 W

Below the answer of BP Europe SE - BP Nederland on my question about the successor of the TAF-X last november: "De opvolger van de TAF-X is Syntrans Transaxle 75W-90" Translation: The successor of TAF-X is Syntrans Transaxle 75W-90.

Dave, many thx for the usefull info.

So its either an Original one or one from PNM or SJ. (JAE a little bit too far away from me).

Anybody like to share their experiences etc they had / have with aftermarket clutch kits (SJ / R&B etc) as I'm looking into a new one (complete kit, stock SE engine).

"Klaar is Kees" is a dutch expression, just curious what's your connection with the Netherlands?

Same partno. (A907E6020Z) as on my SE, so the size is 3/8 UNF, the length is 7/8 (22.2 mm).

Connectors on the fuelinjectors properly seated ?????

Ramspott & Brandt have a restrictor in their shop.

Something to be proud off.

It is just a standard M10 bolt which is screwed into the AC Compressor bracket. The tensioner can be moved when the bolt is tight, two stepped bushes take care of this. Your nylon adjusted strap looks knackered, replace it and use the U shaped clamping plate, this prevents the widening of the adjuster slot when tightening the bolt which passes through the slot / alternator.

The module (headlamp pod lift module) is located in the fwd luggage / spare wheel compartment close to the lefthand pot. Item 50 section 17.03A of the parts manual. Just trace back on the wires coming from the pods. It is not on the relay array. However i'm not convinced that it is an electrical problem since the motors were spinning (making noise) and you could not raise the pods manually which suggest a mechanial drive problem ie the 3 cylindrical blocks (in the gearwheel) in each drive have failed.

The pods are controlled by an electronic module taking care of switching the motors off when the pods reach the end position.