nodemgr

This procedure worked, thanks!

Can someone please re-up this manual? The link gives an error "This file has been downloaded maximum number of times."

Yes this happened to me last night, my car died right in the middle of an intersection as I was waiting to make a left turn. At that point I had been driving for about 3 miles after noticing my headlights basically went out and my ABS and SIR lights lit up...then the car started bucking. I was so close to home I decided to try to make it, but I got about 1 mile from home and I let the RPM drop too much and it died. Before leaving to go home the car was wet from a short hard rain...this is probably the second time the car has seen rain, since it's black and difficult to keep clean. It went about 12 miles before showing symptoms. I have just installed a refurbished alternator, but the belt was still tight. The battery seemed to be completely drained so it seems either the alternator died or something was shorting. I let it sit for about 1/2 hour and limped it home...it died just as I was pulling into my driveway. I also noticed a vacuum leak, a vacuum cap for my BOV tee fell off. I do have dielectric grease in the wire connections and the wires are almost brand new. I'm assuming water got in the connectors somehow, on either end. I am running with both the engine cover and the bottom plate and I don't remember hitting any large puddles.

My 4 cyl does something very similar, except it's only when I press the throttle while in a high gear going slowly. And it's only the initial knock, I don't get the subsequent knocks. I was under my car and the left driveshaft makes a clear clicking sound when I rotate it by hand. Sounds like the inner CV joint has no lubrication. I plan to take a look at it this winter. I didn't think the two could be related, but possibly.

wow looks nice! any chance we can get some audio?

For your international enjoyment here are some pics of the various cars. 2010 BCU Festival Pics

very nice !

can you post some audio or video clips?

Hey Lucas what's the story on the front splitter? I want one!

Here's my experience. Shortly after I bought my car one of the first things I did was replace the accumulator due to the low accumulator code. After a thorough bleed my ABS light stayed off for about a week or so but then the pedal would get a little mushy and the blinking ABS light would return. Then I tried bleeding again and the same thing, light off for a week then mushy pedal and light back on. I can't tell you how many times I bled my brakes. I put up with this for a few years and then I got PNM's front brake kit so I decided to fix the system. I cleaned the pressure switch myself(and it was sticking, so that was part of the problem), but l decided to have the ABS unit refurbished because I always wondered about internal seals. I sent the whole system off including the accumulator, pump, switch, and master cylinder. I got it back a week later refurbed and fully tested. The internal seals were "swelled" and had to be replaced. The only other thing was some filter had detached itself and probably got in the way of the stroke of the cylinder occasionally, according to the tech. I don't recall feeling anything like this when using the brakes but he said it probably happened. The refurb comes with a year warranty and cost $575USD. It is a lot but I believe this includes a refurb switch and accumulator if yours are bad, since the price is fixed. Unfortunately mine weren't bad so the profit margin was high on my refurb. Best part is the ABS light is gone and my pedal is rock hard. I haven't had it to the track yet, but I've got time with the year warranty. Actually I haven't even tried to invoke ABS yet., but I am confident in the system with no warning lights. It's crazy to think of how much brake fluid I went through over the years.

That's esprit porn! Nicely done!

I got the monster 6 front kit installed. I got the HPS pads with the kit...I put the pads in the caliper and they are VERY tight. Has anyone else gotten this kit and noticed the pads went into the caliper very tight? It could be because of the paint on the new pads, not sure...but I needed to position them perfectly centered and I have the top pad spring completely compressed/flattened. I am having problems bleeding my system, squishy pedal going to the floor...but I think it's the internal seals in the Delco Powermaster IIIA system that finally bit the dust. I've spent many hours over the last 2 weeks trying to get a firm pedal and have had no luck. I've bled this system MANY times in the 5 years I've owned this car(even replaced the TMC calipers 2 years ago - so the calipers were bone dry) and never had this much trouble. Yes, Jonathan, I've read your latest bleeding procedure many times ...but I don't believe bubbles in the fluid is the problem. I did pull the pressure switch for cleaning and therefore the accumulator(to get at the switch) before bleeding. But this was two weeks and many pints of fluid ago. I'm wondering if the tight pads or the newest bleeding trials were the last straw causing the internal seals to go. I am guessing that under extreme braking and pedal pressure you will have a huge amount of pressure on the pads/rotors and therefore master cylinder seals, but I don't know the specifics of that vs. how tight these pads are fitting.

make sure your steering rack mounting bolts are tight...mine had worked loose after some time driving on a blown shock

1.5" socket was too big? the 1.375" I bought was too small...

thanks! HKS SSQV

hah then I will be stressing the crappy ABS system

I'll let you know

no just 6 pot front

ah ok, my mistake. I have this brake kit on the way with Hawk HPS.

what's the joke? is there something wrong with these calipers?

maybe the vacuum pump intake tube fell off? or how about a loose tensioner for the vacuum pump causing the pump to wobble?

Well I've been reading the archives on the turboesprits list and some posts reference certain aftermarket coilovers that don't allow you to adjust ride height independent of preload. This is the case with the final run v8 suspension. I could have some spacers made, but I'm going to set it to proper ride height per specs and see how the handling is affected. Perhaps I can get it corner weighted at that point.

How disappointing, it's pretty obvious that it leans and it makes it look like something's wrong with the car. I'm not sure if I should dial out the lean in my final edition v8 setup...I think the spring rate will change if I tighten up the left side vs the right side. Anyone know for sure? Perhaps if the car is leaning then the spring rate should be tighter in the left side to compensate for the lean and the driver? I have the spacers left from my old suspension, but at this point I think only the rear spacer would work as I can put it at the top of the spring...in the front the spacer was at the bottom of the spring, if I remember correctly, and the new perches are different.

My 1993 Esprit does the same thing. Originally I thought it was worn springs. However I just installed a used final v8 suspension setup(shocks, springs, new adjustable rear upper links) that had only 5k miles on it, and my car still leans to the driver side(left side in my case). This is in both the front and the back...it's probably near 1" like yours. I was careful to tighten all suspension at normal ride height with vehicle weight on the suspension...so that's not the problem. I wonder if our chassis fatigue over time or possibly mine was tweaked in an accident before I bought it. There are no stress cracks around the shifter opening on my car so it doesn't seem to have been abused...and it has less than 15k miles.

I did the exact same thing when I had my engine out and replaced the A/C compressor. I never hooked it back up when I put my car together so I don't know if the lines will reach. Just wanted to let you know you weren't the only one to follow the manual. Really pissed me off when I realized it..