sgrobler

Does anyone have any pictures of the magic tool being used? And a sketch with key dimensions would be most appreciated? I would like to make one up as I am sure it won't want to visit Australia, even if it is vaccinated. I gather the bore of the tube is tapered, and then you press the bush in using the big end of the rod? What is the taper on the rod for - assume it has no function? And the step-down at the other end of the rod?

Thanks for that - did you have any tips or photos of how its done?

I'm having similar problems - oil leak from the exhaust cam housing, progressively getting worse. A couple of months ago I took the cam cover off the housing and tested the tightness of the bolts holding the cam housing onto the cylinder head - used my torque wrench set to the right number. All but three of them were OK - did not move - but three of them just turned freely - evidently stripped. So that's probably the cause of my leak. I will need to install helicoils. Anyone else come across this problem before? Looks to me like the engine has got to come out for that job...

Hi Travis - the NAPA pumps that you mention don't come with the pulley - how does the pulley get fitted? Is is a press fit that I'll need a press or some heat to get teh old one off and re-fit? regards Steve

is this pdf still available? Link does not seem to work.

Well dash lights are working again. Got no idea why! Pulled the binnacle off and re-fitted multiple times. Light always worked fin as long as binnacle was not bolted down. It often happened that as soon as I started to screw in the last bolt, lights would go out. I did accidentally pull out one of the lamps in the speedo - whenever I plugged it in, the lights went out. I found that the positive wire was going to its metal casing - I think the positive should be to the centre-pin. Maybe the live was shorting through to ground via the speedo casing. Anyway the lamp glass was loose too, so I've left that lamp out waiting on a replacement lamp to arrive from UK.

Thanks for those tips, I've not been able to look at it again yet, maybe this weekend. I did look for signs of wires getting crushed, but they are all well clear of the binnacle and the bolts. Looks like it will have to be disconnected again (getting the speedo cable back is the painful bit).

Thanks for the feedback. I haven't sorted it out yet. It's really odd as the binnacle wiring is all self-contained, just two connectors, that carry all the earths etc, so its not as though it relies on the binnacle being earthed through the bolted connection. Before this happened I noticed (for many years) that my rev counter would sometimes not work when I first started the car, but if I bumped the binnacle it would start working. Its probably all related somehow! Steve

I've got a rather annoying problem with the dash lights. They stopped working completely a little while ago so I tool the binnacle off to check them. All lamps are OK and all work fine until I tighten the binnacle down! There are 4 bolts that go through the steel dash cross member to hold the binnacle down. The mating brackets on the binnacle are steel brackets screwed to a plywood frame so there does not seem to be a conducting path between the binnacle and the bolts. But when I put these bolts in, the dash lights flicker on and off. Sometime I can get 3 in with no problem and then as soon as the 4th one goes in the lights go out! As long as I don't tighten the bolts fully I can wiggle the binnacle into a position where the lights stay on. But as soon as I tighten them up the lights go out. Bumping or pulling/pushing the binnacle can make the lights come on momentarily. Buggered if I can work out whats going on! Bizarre!! Anyone got an suggestions for me to try? Thanks Steve

Hi Neil Did you have any photos of the replacement job? Did the set include the boot or just the cabin?

So the driver's side window has been playing up - I finally got round to looking at it this week. Similar symptoms to the passenger side, but not the same problem, ie not the thermal overload switch. Don't really know what it was - maybe just dirty contacts in the switch - maybe from a bit of arcing? I pulled the switch to bits and cleaned it with contact cleaner and it started working fine. But decided to to do the relay modification anyway - hopefully that should stop the contacts from getting damaged/dirty in future . Here's a photo

Well I finally got my turbo sorted. Bought a new one from SJSportscars. Cheaper, easier and faster than trying to get someone here in Perth (Oz) to repair the old one. Finally found the time to put it all together and drove it for the first time today... Certainly feels like a turbocharged car now! Wow. I've missed a lot of excitement over the last few years! Here's my before and after boost curves... BoostComparison.pdf