Bentzion

Just awesome... All that filming.. Still think it would be great to re-enforce the heater box suspension.. Either way wow!

They are strong but you must buy them coated as they can gall. chromium nitride (CrN) is a good coating ....and make sure your guides are copper bronze. Titanium suffers from very hot flame temps over time as well as elongation of the stem. There is much more maintenance when you use Ti valves to make sure you don't drop one "unexpectedly".

Caution going with Ti valves... They don't do very well in day to day cars and do wear quite aggressively. We treat a lot of them in the states for LS7 motors with DCT and WPC as well.

All,' If you really want better life from both your semi metallic brake pads and rotors you need to have them cryogenically treated.. Nothing else will give you the life span, period. Proven, over and over and over again.. The one company that I found in the UK that does the rotors is: http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/motor-sport/. (no affiliation!) They seems to be OK.. NOT everyone does cryo the same. Ask how long the hold time at -195c they treat at . Should be min 12 hours. Also ask if they temper at 175c after treatment (a must). 3X to 7x the life from the rotors. Pads less BUT the cost to treat both should not be so bad. Our prices stateside are: $50ea for rotors and $20 ea for set of pads. Whats treated in motorsports: Complete engines Suspension components driveline components and of course brakes. etc etc.. Lots and lots of research and empirical data out there of this process..its been used in top secret US aerospace labs for many years. F1, Motogp, Drag racing WRC.. amongst many others.. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask...

Our business based in California USA is now Cryogenically treating CWP for a lotus V8 owner. Additionally we are also micro shot peening for increased surface tension but reduced drag. This should increase the strength of the pieces and reduce heat buildup.

Big track....Bloody high desert! Needs lots of money to make it look and feel attractive. I guess the Chinese may be able to pull it off...

There it is FOLKS.. The ultimate marketing weapon is one that a future owner employs on one's self!! Be Proud Lotus.. LOL

I want to interject here...HP is measured at the crank...Wheel HP is what is supposed to matter.... but NOTHING matters except for how the torque is delivered. Everyone talks about HP but it's all BS. And lotus has to be careful how much toque it delivers to the standard gearbox.

He's at the factory...with his pillow..

I think you guys should read this web site: www.fatcatmotorsports.com .. I personally dislike the owner! BUT... he makes some really good suspension with the Bilsteins NO adjustments... Thats because few in the road suspension business tailors things like nitrogen pressure or pays attention to the details such as spring rates and sway bar thickness when prescribing the valving... No adjustments needed when you can custom valve properly. If anything you will learn a lot about suspension tuning. Lotus does a really good job with their Bilstein shocks but they can do better..

I used him to make a deckled spoiler for my M6...DO NOT USE HIM...

most PFC pad compounds are considered in the industry to be cinder blocks. They are quite aggressive. You might consider a different pad manufacturer. Call a motorsport supply shop and ask them what the recommend for street and track.

Porsche doesn't manufacture ANY brake components. Brembo/AP usually make all their OEM pieces. PFC that are made for racing like the Brembo/AP are a whole different story. PFC's claim to fame of ZERO DRAG is a ripoff of another company..But they work. You don't need holes. They were used in the 70's to allow the brake pads to outgas while very hot. They don't do that anymore because most pads are "baked" to cook off all the excess resins. The cracks you see are stress cracks from heat. Grey Iron is Grey Iron...plus or minus a couple of points of carbon infusion. Two piece rotors are better because they don't warp and can control heat better..usually. Get rid of ANY silicon based fluid and RUN ONLY AP racing fluid...That will help a lot in consistency in brake feel. After every heavy track day session completely flush the system. That will keep your calipers working optimally. Also, if you plan on a lot of track days then you should buy a rebuild kit and plan on rebuilding you calipers once a year.

I haven't been active here for a bit so please excuse me if this was discussed at length before. It seems that Lotus aren't too keen to talk about any future models that may be in the pipeline, heck, they don't even allow too many journalists to drive their current cars....There isn't much in the way of publicity..Am I missing something? Again, please excuse my ignorance if Iv'e missed the obvious.