Head off:

Quick look at the bores:

Looks not bad.

 

And made a tool to pull the crank sprocket off:

Ugly but effective.

And now under the 911-907 adaptor plate...

And a little something left in the sump

Although as it looks like a 1/2" nut, i can't think where it could have come from. 🙄

Did you lock down the cylinder liners before turning the crank Tom ?

Luckily I'm taking the liners out to fit to the 907 block, so it's ALL coming apart. 😂

They seem well stuck though so I may have to fashion a puller.

Here's the restored original 907 block for my internals.

Stripped back and prepared for assembly. 😁

The issue with the 911 block was that the adapter plate for the sump meant that half the bellhousing bolts didn't line up 😕

 And there was oil everywhere - and I had no idea how the internals were arranged.

But it doesn't look too bad, condition seems ok and I'm getting an idea of what goes where thanks to forum members.

Special tool to get the oil pickup retaining screw - 19mm Allen key anyone?

 

I don’t think that’s part of the genuine Lotus workshop kit.....

i assume your reusing the head, liners and crank in the replacement block?

Edited July 14, 20196 yr by Straker

I'm trying to reuse anything that isn't broken, worn out or inappropriate.

Time will tell of course, but when I swap the block im hoping to need almost nothing - the engine ran well and it all looks ok so far - I'm sure there are some detail differences between the 911 anf 907 fittings - the oil return pipe looks like one.

Pistons, pins, rings,  liners, crank, con rods, main and big end bearings even.

Maybe all I need is oil seals and gaskets?

Maybe.

😄

The bit that keeps you off the ground is coming back together

Still a lot of work to do on the bit that pushes you around:

I'm looking forward to it 😂

I can see a run in the paint - you're going to have to do it again!! 😂.  Looks like you're making good progress.  Is the body actually back on now?

Pete

That engine block looks really clean Tom, did you have it blasted to get that finish?

4 hours ago, EXCEL V8 said:

Is the body actually back on now?

Body still hovering like in that top pic.

I'm tempted to fit the engine onto the chassis first - just think of all that space.

But as it's not the way it's normally done , there's probably a good reason🤔

I've forgotten what had to come off once the body was removed,  but i think I'm there - prop, diff, hubs, sus, fuel line, handbrake cable and brake lines nearly all done,  so maybe it's almost time? I'll just look at the top items on the various piles and see where they go. if they go in through the top, then it's body on time😀

4 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

That engine block looks really clean Tom, did you have it blasted to get that finish?

!I'd like to claim it was elbow grease and my old toothbrush, but LB did the prep.
They probably used someone else's toothbrush though. Mine's still ok.
I cleaned the old block by washing it in stale petrol so I can dismantle it without ending up like the creature from the black lagoon,  but it's not that clean...😐

I'm planning on fitting the engine before fitting the body - it's how they did it in the factory so it can't be that hard. 

Pete

In which case ill leave the wheels off, and I believe the body will go on with the ex. manifold on but rocker cover off, and the body needs a tilt and maybe a sideways movement as it drops.

How are you planning on doing that Pete? I was thinking it might almost be easier to drop the body straight and raise the engine/chassis on trolley jacks. Alternately I'm thinking of lowering the body on 4 straps allowing angle adjustment and a bit of side to side.

Anyone know a good thread on this assembly method?

Just reading Simon's thread:

 

Do we need a whip round to see newer pictures?

That's some fantastic restoration. 😀😀

 

 

I've built a lifting "frame" using an Acrow prop and the RSJ that holds up our bedroom!  It's in a domestic garage so not much height.  If you have a look at my restoration thread on Excel.net (glacial progress) over the next couple of weeks I'm planning to take some photos and upload them - it's much easier to see than to describe!  Thread is entitled "Restoration Begins" in the "General" section.  The body is lifted via a frame that bolts to the door beam hinge bobbins in the A-post and the door latch/roll-over bobbin in the B-post.  Like I say - hard to describe, but it will be obvious once you see the pictures.

Pete

Can I view that on a mobile Pete? All I can see is tiny tiny text. Maybe there is a technical solution?

12 hours ago, tom kilner said:

Can I view that on a mobile Pete? All I can see is tiny tiny text. Maybe there is a technical solution?

Do you mean you cannot see the forum pages?  I know a bit about cars but nothing about mobiles (phones?).  Sorry!

Pete

The closer I look the more complex everything becomes

But big thanks to excel v8 for the liner puller - i thought it would save me a job but it looks like it facilitated my needing to do a dozen other jobs🤔

Next I've got to get those studs out-i mean how hard can that be?

Do they have to come out Tom? Be good to use new ones in your replacement block.

- Jeremy

The studs usually come out OK - double up some nuts (throw them away afterwards).  Unusually, the studs are torqued into the block - they are more often left "finger tight" in other engine designs.

Pete

I'm trying to reuse as much as possible, so the studs live on - the main and big end bearings shells however...I imagine I will need the crank measured/ maybe reground  and shells orderered to match?

I used non Lotus bearings in my rebuild, so far its running fine with good oil pressure but I cant recommend them for anyone elses engine until I have a few thousand miles under the belt.

To say they were cheap in comparison would be an understatement!

Quote

Do they have to come out Tom? Be good to use new ones in your replacement block.

- Jeremy

 

One should always use new studs and head bolts as these bolts are stretched when first torqued and can not clamp, once again, when re-torqued any where close to what they did when new. NEVER reuse these parts including rod bolts. Ask any pro engine builder and he will tell you the same.

cheers,

Richard

I got the same advice from Gary Kemp. Fortunately, I didn’t need to rip the head off my Esprit, but iirc, total cost was about £150 for new studs at the time.

good luck!