Rusty nuts how do you do yours!

[slewthy]

The suspense is killing me....

[silverfrost]

Its been almost an hour now, hope its good news..........

[wayneb911]

Been unable to get on the computer due to a face book hog!! I hate the bloody thing.........

But i do like this?

One down!!!! The other is solid and coulnt get it to go. Kept breaking the nut. Wasnt able to get enough weld in the sides of the nut. Will have another go at the weekend no and may need to go for the drilling option.

Pleased i got one though.

[Simon350S]

Nicely done!

Keep at it, you'll be there soon...

[wayneb911]

Will i do any damage to the head by keep applying heat in this way. looking at the other one someone has either drilled it befor or im starting to melt some of the head!! Need to get some more 17mm nuts now as i used 3 on the one that is still in there with no joy.

[slewthy]

Yeay!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice one Wayne. knew you'd get there yourself.

Now a world renowned stud (remover)

[molemot]

Nice work...very good effort. Fingers crossed for the last one!!

[rogerch]

We salute your efforts and tenacity. I wondered if there was any info from prior V6 conversions as to how eassy/diificult, it is to get the heads off in situ?

[ramjet]

Something I learnt when I did my trade was sometimes with siezed nuts or bolts was to try and break the sieze by tightening slightly first then trying to undo it. You'd be surprised how many times that works.

Michael.

[silverfrost]

Well done Wayne, I was pleased that your reply was that you had acomplished your task!

Now onto the last one! Regards danny and good luck

[wayneb911]

Thanks everyone. Could someone just confirm that by heating the last stud as much as i am with the welder i will not damage the head?

[ramjet]

Small proviso to what I said as well. Only try to tighten if the studs are not bottomed out in the hole. The only way to tell is to see how the others are set, if they are all bottomed out, then just try undoing.

[Günter]

apply 'brutal' force only as the head around the stud has cooled out enough. With forces/stresses in the same time as the heat has made the casting weak you will probably shear off the threat in the alloy. The heat (as it expands the stud) is just there to expand it, and weak the rust in the threath after the stud has returned to equal temperatures.. .

heat, cooling down, hammering slightly on the small side (directly into the direction of the head) of the stud, clean the surrounding area, tilt the engine up -to apply the Oil.

[wayneb911]

We shall not surender!!!

Out in the garage today. One last try with the welder option and.......... still no go so i guess i will have to brave the drill.

Ground the stud off to a flat head but didnt grind it flat with the block. Centre punched it and began to drill at slow speed with some decent pirana drill biits gradually increasing the size. So after a little bit of drilling and have to say im impressed with how straight it was it was ready to be re tapped.

Now where is that bloddy tap set!!! Twnety mins and a machine mart latter

[molemot]

Have you managed to unwind the remains of the stud? If you have drilled perfectly straight and perfectly centrally, then the thread part of the stud ought finally to unwind out of the hole like a spring. It's asking a lot, but I have managed it a few times. If not, then trying to tap it is a bit fraught, as you are likely to be trying to tap into the remains of the stud; this could cause all sorts of hassles, like breaking the tap or being forced off line by the steel stud being much harder than the alloy. Might be better to get a helicoil set and drill our to helicoil tap size - this will definitely be bigger than the stud - then use a helicoil tap and fit a helicoil in the head. Probably better to helicoil any dodgy thread at this point, saves a lot of heartache later. Well done with what you've managed so far, in any case..bit of a steep learning curve!! Oh, by the way, book says 6.9mm drill for an 8 X 1.25 mm thread...you'll probably find 7n a bit big, considering drill wobble, but 6.5mm ought to give you a 6.9mm hole with a handheld drill.

[Günter]

every good 'hardware-store' holds metric drills in stock, with #.1 increments !

Have used those as 'cam-calibrating tools' (4.2/4.7 for example) ...so it should not be an problem to drill it out with the right diameter. What could be an problem is (as said above..) if you 'run out' with the drill. Especially as even if you manage to place some inserts it will probably be slightly out of line with the stud-hole in the manifold some time. This can give some trouble (stresses) on the heating up/cooling down processes if the engine is running in future... .

So do it as precise as possible, mentioning that there is always a possibility to have an hole next to a thin casting wall , or water-/oil-channel in the head. So if you fit an insert watch out for the length of the thread !

PS. I prefer *time-sert* inserts over the helicoil wire-inserts... .

Edited February 6, 2010 by G

[molemot]

Gunter...Timeserts are a better engineering solution...but they are phenomenally expensive compared with the helicoil...I nearly fell through the floor when I found out how much they cost!

[wayneb911]

Time sert are expensive when you buy them from wurth if you dont know the sales rep. I used to work for wurth and they are actually very cheap especially if you work for them. I have a few garages i know so will pop in and ask to pinch an insert. May even have some in the garage. They can be done without the insertion tools. A normal tap does the same. Even a bolt. Its only the last few threads that are not formed and then splay out when you insert the tool. Hopefully i wont need to though. Will let you know once i have done it latter.

[Günter]

as always in life, don't pay the first price

Wayne is right, the way to go is via licensed garages (as Würth does not sell to privates on the first attempt..), or if you just need some ask the garage/friend with a machine-shop to borrow the tools an by only a single insert.

Have used them in the truck workshop, so I know that they work. And I was able to by some with the 'internal crew' discount.. .

Now I have a private full-set for the most used 6/8/10mm inserts, and if the included inserts are gone I will by spare packages via the same ways.

*other point: The licence rights/copy rights on this product are now free on the market. As far as I know there will be similar insert types available in the aftermarket !

Edited February 7, 2010 by G

[wayneb911]

Be carefull of the aftermarket copies. When i worked for wurth there was a law suit going on because someone had copied them and they were no where near as good. If the licence is free to copyright now and they are as good then by all means i say "Fill ya boots"