Rusty nuts how do you do yours!

[wayneb911]

We all suffer with bloody rusted manifold nuts at some point. My question is how do you all deal with yours. I have two manifold studs and the nuts are so corroded you cant get a spanner to work. Mole gribs are a no go as there is not enough space to turn them. So what does everyone recommend as really dont want to break them. Will get new ones anyway but rather remove the stud safely.

[rogerch]

Dremel

[red vtec]

Irwin Bolt Grip Remover My link

Pm me I have a set I can bring over to use. I only live in Rettendon

[slewthy]

Presumably no space for a nut splitter?

[cjtpb13]

Liquid Wrench, a bit of heat and then utilise socket similar to what red vtec has suggested. Oh a lot of swearing too...

[Günter]

use that , and a chisel..

works everytime !

[Iconic Ride]

Now see here, young man. I may be getting on in years, but my nuts show no sign of rust. And I cannot imagine for the life of me why anyone would want to take a chisel, grip, spanner, and especially not a splitter to them. I'm perfectly content to let them remain in place as is!

[wayneb911]

Chris

Thanks for the offer. Think i will buy a set as they will come in usefull anyway and there not to expensive from your link. Feel free to pop over though and see the car when you this way. I try to get out there most nights after half seven. Drop me an email at any point.

[ramjet]

I would have thought John, that a gentle knee bend over some mild phosphoric acid while holding the centre piece out of harms way may solve the rustiness. Then continue with more active use. Don't recommend never-sieze though as I haven't found a laundry detergent that really gets it out.

[Günter]

John:

..just , take it this way: if the nuts are rusty, think there are still some balls to play with somewhere... .

OK, it all depends on how lucky the wife is without the nuts

Edited January 26, 2010 by G

[wayneb911]

Mr Irwin bolt grippers on their way. Thanks Chris!

[molemot]

Always best to anticipate, before rounding off the objects...Plus Gas, let it soak, apply heat (careful use of oxyacetylene) and then ring spanner or socket. Even gets the nuts off Lycoming exhausts without breaking the studs..and you REALLY don't want to break them!!

Regarding serviceability of nuts...the docs told me yesterday that once my cancer hormone treatment stops in a year or so, there is a definite risk of them returning to serviceability in another 18 months. O joy. Puberty was bad enough the first time...but at 65?!! Hope I don't go all spotty...strewth, may be this time I'll actually "grow up"...heaven forfend!!

Old Civil Service joke...

A senior Civil Servant received a memo from his superior. He thought it was total b*lls, so - being polite and not wanting to use the crude form - he wrote upon it "Round Objects!!!" and sent it back.

Two days later it was back in his in tray, with the annotation:

"Who is "Round"..and to what does he object?"!!

[red vtec]

Wayne,

I just hope they do the job!

I bought mine when I couldnt get a rounded of bolt of a rear caliper, took about 5 secs with the Irwin.

Good luck

[wayneb911]

Chris my Irwin set turned up yesterday so i got out there today and gave it a go.

They gripped fantastic unfortunatelly the studs were obviously seized and both snapped. Still Manifold off now and i have two studs hanging out with about 10mm on show to grip hold of.

Next question. What is the best way to remove a broken stud? May need to buy a new tool.

Glad i got the irwins i cant believe how strong they must be. Im sure i will have many more times that they will be needed.

[Günter]

if the stud is still visibly more on the 'outside', and not heavily rusted/seized -use some of those special 'gripper tools', or put an old nut (something bigger) on it, weld it onto the stud and use a spanner to undo the stud (working it out as an normal screw in this case..). If the stud is plane, or broken some mm inside of the head-casting: be patient, use some weld-spots to add material and 'lift up the end' of the stud. Again, weld an old nut on top and undo the stud. If it is too deepin the casting: drill a small hole (with an higher rated HSS, or 'fast cut' drill) , use an 'left handed' [marked with left handed orientated vanes..] punch, add an spanner on the end of it and undo the punch toghether with the rest of the stud... .

[wayneb911]

The stud has about 10mm outside the head. Not sure i could get a nut on will have to have a look. Not to confident with my welder at the moment so want to avoid that route. unless someone fancies popping past and having a go for me? Any other ways im open to options.

[Günter]

the heat, transfered into the material via the welding is an additional bonus ! Sometimes an blowtorch works with the same effects... . Different temperature reactions of the steels stud and the alluminium alloy (dont heat the alloy area up that much !!) cause minimal gabs between the oxidisations. With the possibility for perfect bpenetration of rust cleaners and oil. This helps wile you use simple grippers (pliers) to undo the stud. or some of those 'stud removers' that fit onto a wrench

[Simon350S]

The welded nut is about the best option I'd say....

What if you soak them for ages with penetrating fluid, like a couple of days, could you then use a pair of mole grips? maybe a heavy tap on the end of the stud with a hammer to loosen the thread even more?

[rogerch]

10mm is not much to work with and I doubt grips will be successful, I used to have one of these and found it quite successful

Clicky

Liberal spray with WD40 overnight and cautious application of heat.

It's better to surrender and take it to a machine shop than damage the head.

Roger

[Günter]

roger, that's one type of stud 'remover' I know -the other (if space is limited) is:

[wayneb911]

I will soak it with WD. Did think about heating it but wasnt sure in case i made it worse. Because of where it is its awkward to get a pair of grips in at a good angle.

Machine shop is not a solution at present because of transporting the engine so hoping to be able to do it at home. If i have to though i will have to work out how to get it to the machine shop.

[Günter]

pictures, please ...i promise that I will hold my healing hands onto the display

[wayneb911]

Okay will get some in the morning. Forget to take them when i was out there braking them earlier!!

[rogerch]

I'm puzzled, if you're not going to take the head off why take the engine out. OK I know you are repacing it, so maybe you want to sell the old one as a going unit, in which case why take the manifold off?

[wayneb911]

Its the Duratec engine im working on so engine out already. Manifolds need cleaning up and new head studs and nuts so want it reoved. Also needed to get to that side of the engine for a good scrub up.