slewthy

Thanks everyone. Yes indeed, push rod tight so preloaded. Adjusted and can now be rotated. Will go out for a trial once I retax. And, quite right, easy to get without disconnecting anything. So does this mean there is no real need to split the floor?

Nice Atwell! Unfortunately, my S3 boot floor is different. It is shaped around the rear engine bay and is difficult to remove without damaging the paint around the inner hatch mouldings, hence my desire to obviate the need to remove the engine bay part in the first place. it wont lift up in the way you have illustrated. I wondered if a split floor would solve that. I might get a new pushrod and then I will know its correct. I think the confusion earlier in the thread comes from our different definitions of clutch engaged or not. JonWat is correct - its clutch slip I have experienced. In my understanding, this means lack of clutch engagement but that not be everyone's interpretation. this means that, for whatever reason, the clutch actuator system remains engaged when it should be completely slack. It could be that my push rod is worn but that I have over compensated at the adjustment on the fork. this is what I will look at.

Thanks chaps. I said disengaging. My bad I meant engaging!! I replaced the old red hose when I first got the car with a PNM braided one, perhaps 10+yrs ago. It was a very hot day though.... When I replaced the slave cylinder, I think I may have 'fiddled' with the push rod distance adjustment as the rod was quite floppy - my thought was that it may now be too tight, so not fully releasing the plate. I need to check the measurement, 22mm I think it should be. I'm sure its all doable without removing the boot floor.

Well, I replaced the clutch master and slave last year, all seemed well but towards the end of my final run last year, I got the impression the clutch was not fully disengaging. Figured I needed to take a relook at it all and , yes bleed. Just thought, 'whilst the boot floor is out'......

Its time to get the S3 up and out again. To do so, I need to do some clutch adjustment, so,. (having no lift) I need to remove the rear boot floor and separate the box of electrical mystery attached to it, engine side. No biggy but I recall someone here talking about this issue and the solution being to split the floor. But I'm not sure if this is the same reason to do it or not. Also not sure how I might safely go about it. Any advice/memory etc gratefully received - I did search but failed.😐. I might have done a 'man look' of course......

When you bury them, I recommend a generous sprinkling of coriander. Love it.

I once had reason to spend some time on BritModeller.com Now there are some people with serious time and attention to detail. Very skilled indeed. I say, if it gives you pleasure and soothes your head, go for it. The kit looks very good quality. Do they become collectable when built?

Does 'super detail' mean putting scuffs where your foot catches the front door panel when getting out of the car? Or maybe dead flies on the front.

In that documentary, he says that other ?younger? Steeplejacks were not so bold until they had had 4 or 5 pints at lunchtime and then they were happier going up the stacks! Or words to that effect.

I'm currently restoring a Citroen DS23 so I neither have garage space nor money!!

Did check. No MOT. No Insurance and SORN. Number plate itself could be good - starts M15 Its in a nice area but as the image shows, the house has not really been looked after either compared to all the others around it.

Parked in a quite nice area on a pavement too short for it.

Can you specify make of graphite spray or a link please?

Another vote for satin here. redid mine 12 yrs ago. Still satin.

Maybe it was once a kit car?

What are our views on WD40 PTFE spray? I understand its suspended in WD40 still but the PTFE might be a useful addition?

Does seem like alot. We paid that a few yrs ago but it included the stove and fireplace (both Chesneys) and flue liner. That said, we also bought a large table (Neptune) at the same time and that has now doubled in price!

Invaluable help everyone. Never thought to check the jets were the correct ones to start with! I'll hopefully get some time to do some of these checks this week.

Thanks guys, Float levels already checked and adjusted according to instructions because I too suspected this as a cause. No pressure regulator on this model, although when I bought the car, someone had fitted one. Interesting perhaps. Rejetting carbs was a thought but likely beyond my ken. Hands up, I have not checked the plugs. Duh. I also have a colour tune that might be worth a check. Steve, I am totally happy with how the car runs and sounds but a couple of people have commented and that has nagged at me! I'll run those checks again and report beck. Si

Evening all. I have an SJ StSt 4-1 exhaust system. Was a bugger to fit but got there in the end. For reasons, a couple of years ago, I changed out the centre box to a through pipe - great noise. Car now seems to run rich. Nothing else has been changed but to be honest, its always been on the richer side when my MOT garage used to check emissions or whatever. Could the centre exhaust section be the culprit? I also have a K&N filter but the air intake system is otherwise stock. Thanks in advance...

No worries - an admin day today which I hate so its nice to break the monotony with something else. The strap is not what I would have tried first but the proof is in the pudding - very little to lose by trying it. They are meant to reduce force at the kneecap, so fair enough! Glucosamine and chondroitin are elements that exist within cartilage. They are the big boys of joint supplement. Evidence is less than convincing but I have patients who stopped them when approaching surgery and noticed things get worse after stopping. So, I think a pragmatic approach would be to give them a try - most bottles give a 1 month supply - and see what happens when you stop, taking care not to change anything else at the time. They are rather too pricey if they have no effect. Other well know items include Rose hip extract and green lipped mussel extract - your guess is as good as mine. More and more people are swearing by turmeric too. Unfortunately, much of the 'evidence' is spoilt by industry interference and poorly conducted studies which is a pity because its likely some of these will have mechanisms of action that have a real world effect. Regarding the fish oil, I met someone who took it to the extreme - he ate cod liver on toast! But so did his entire family including kids! They were Scandinavian though. IIRC, the proper studies for CLO were at very high doses, well beyond what is currently recommended. I suppose something is better than nothing. I hope some of these measures make a difference for you. Simon

Yes, I'm around occasionally. Rather than send a PM, I thought I would post some general info as it may be helpful for others. I am an arthroplasty surgeon, so spend my time replacing damaged or worn out knees and hips etc. Please understand that this is generic info/advice and cant replace a one to one history and examination really - havn't we found that out during the pandemic! As a general statement, if someone already has cartilage issues in the knee, several things can occur or exacerbate things. If kept still for too long, it will become stiff and sore. This is probably because fluid gets forced out of the cartilage in a concentrated/small area and it takes effort to ride up and out of the 'pothole' as it were. Fluid returns fairly quickly, for it all to happen again. Even with worn joints, we are better moving them than not. Furthermore, unhappy cartilage is less able to resist forces applied. This is why people with lower limb arthritis prefer not to run. The cartilage behind the patella is particularly vulnerable due to magnification factors when considering force vectors. The upshot of this is that the more flexed(bent) the knee, the greater the force generated behind the kneecap for a given foot action. The worst is often descending stairs/hills where forces can easily exceed 7 x body weight. And thats all concentrated on an area little bigger than a 50 pence piece. And just where the cartilage may already be unhappy! Cartilage wear is rarely even too, so some positions may be tolerated better than others. So, thats a tiny bit of the science, but so what? Well, there has already been some great advice here because experience counts! Position. Seat back is better than seat forwards due to the knee flexion issue. Within limits. Too far back and the effort pressing the clutch may negate any benefits. So, yes. Trial and error. Try not to go to set positions. Foot rest might be fine for a bit but not the only resting position. Try and vary the off-clutch resting site. Easier said than done in our cars. Knee support rather than brace. Think stretch bandage. They dont always work although golfers will tell us that they can be the difference between finishing the course and having to stop early. All depends where the issue in the knee is really. Joint supplement therapy. Yep. Over the age of 20 or so, we should probably be taking something - we weren't 'designed' to last so long. Evidence is poor but most lies with the oldest remedies for obvious reasons. So, thats old fashioned Cod Liver Oil. Not 'fish' oil and not Omegas - We dont properly know which element of the CLO works. Dont exceed the recommended dosage (Vit A overload) but the evidence lies with the 'high strength' rather than standard strength. NB if you have lipid issues/need a statin, check with GP. This is not a cure though, probably insurance. There are loads of other supplements but you could spend years and £££s trying them all. Plus people often attribute benefits to something when its actually something else thats working so try and limit the number of changes at once. People also say that its when they stop something that they realise it was having an effect! I'd best go now and do some work but happy to expand further if this helpful. Si

My friend spotted and snapped a lovely looking S2. Hope they were OK?

Just also check the main earth connection from front wiring to chassis. I had very odd headlight pod behaviour in my Esprit that was due to this!

Just changed my clutch components over - same issue. Still slightly crunchy in reverse. Remember the clutch pedal has more than 1 place you can attach the master also!