Removing the Oil Coolers

[DanR]

From my searches here it seems quite probable that I'll break the oil cooler fittings when undoing the nuts and pipes. Until I get them out I can't remove the lower shroud and radiators.

What methods have been used to undo the bolts and nuts without damaging anything? Would applying heat from say near redhot spanners make things easier?

[andydclements]

Probably will not make much difference. I resorted to cutting my rubber pipe on the s3, for the TE I think I was lucky and they cam undone.

[lotus4s]

If you can hold the hex closest to the cooler with a proper thin spanner instead of an adjustable the odds increase in your favor. Enlisting another pair of hands is helpful too.

If it's really seized I'd consider modifying the shroud by cutting a slot in it and fabricating a removeable piece to close it back up.

Good luck!

[dodge1979]

Hello! Just my two peneth worth. You dont need to remove the coolers at all. I took my rad assembly and shroud off without undoing the hoses or top unions. Undo the mounting bolt from inside the front bay, then you can pivot them out of the way. Im currently rebuilding totally my S4 which has stood for yrs in scotland...so you can imagine rust and corrosion is rife especially on these sorts of things. I had no trouble in removing the assembly this way. Since though I have removed the coolers as I noticed one was weeping so Ive bought new ones ready to fit. Yes, the bottom connection sheared, the top one was fine as it doesnt corrode inside the front bay. 28mm spanner or a very good adjustable is needed.

Where abouts are you? If you do decide to replace the pipes let me know as Ive got a new set for myself but Im sure I could get another set made up for you at a saving over the listed price.

Regards Darren

[mr.oogieboogie]

yep if you removing the rad undo the bolts and turn the oilcoolers, also watch out for catching the front fog lights

[lotus4s]

Yes that's correct, you don't need to remove the oil coolers to remove the rad tray. I was thinking about the a/c lines on the earlier models and didn't notice that Dan has an S4.

Edited January 22, 2011 by lotus4s

[DanR]

Thanks guys for your advice. I'll start with the mounting bolt removal and rotation method. I have seen a photo here of the bolt snapping so I'll saturate them first with my home brew penetrating oil. (It's a 50:50 mix of ATF and acetone which does seem to work better than wd40 etc.)

Would I still need to relax the thin nut to rotate the coolers?

Darren I'm in Sydney and I'll let you know if I need pipes. They do look ok though, especially since we don't salt our roads.

Wish me luck. One of the jobs I least like with these cars.

[lotus4s]

No, you shouldn't have to loosen the nut at all.

[DanR]

Done. Thanks everbody for your advice. Really helped making the job a lot easier. I was able to pivot the coolers out of the way. Now to get the radiator rebuilt.

Also thinking how I could change things to make it simpler in future. Maybe trimming the tray and some sheet metalwork brackets to support the radiators.

Edited January 23, 2011 by DanR

[mr.oogieboogie]

beware of the bottom hose when putting it back, i took a piece out of the side of the tray so i could tighten the hose clip up, oh and get someone else to help you as i did this by myself on a grass verge using jacks and axle stands and bits of wood, another pair of hands would make it so much easier

[mieczkow]

For what it's worth I have removed my oil cooler (I have a '89 Turbo Esprit) and re-installed it as aprt of a front end rebuild. I read a lot of scary talk about wrecking it etc. I got the proper wrenches (used) on eBay and that means one which grabs the faceted nipple on the cooler snugly as well as one which is the appropriate size for the compression nut. Once the wrenches were set on the nipple and nut I did a gentle "tap-tap-tap" with a wooden mallet and they came off cleanly. When I re-installed I did exactly the same, only tightening obviously, and when the car was re-started the oil cooler functioned perfectly, no leaks, no drips, etc.

I think the whole issue is technique. As Mr. Natural said "the right tool for the right job" and also common sense. Gentle tapping, patience, and persistence will get the job done. And if you do end up breaking it, it's not a disaster (on a Turbo Esprit) because it is a stock Setrab oil cooler that you can buy new for about $70, It's listed on Doc Hess's website equivalence parts.

Tom Mieczkowski

'89 Turbo Esprit

[DanR]

Thanks Peter and Tom. I've had problems in the past with that hose and the lack of space to work on it. Also good to know those coolers are cheap and common Setrab ones.

Hopefully I'll get it all back together tomorrow.

Here are some photos of a new bracket I frabricated for the fans. The OEM plastic one is fragile, ill-fitting and not as efficient as it could be. Not only are the fan shrouds gapped a fair way off the radiators, which reduces the amount of air pulled through the radiator, there a few areas where air flow at speed would be impeded. I did a rough calculation of about 10-15% restriction. Not desirable especially here in hot oz.

Something else I didn't expect was the amount of road crap that was blocking airflow. I'd recommend everybody checks theirs and plays a water or air hose in the opposite direction to dislodge the crap from time to time.

Edited January 28, 2011 by DanR

[rogerch]

Think that was bad

The surprising thing was it wasn't leaking.

[DanR]

Did you put it back like that or have it re-cored?

[sailorbob]

The S4 doesn't use a cheap Setrab cooler. IIRC, when I priced them up last year I couldn't find one for less than £150.

[dodge1979]

My S4 has Setrab oil coolers on it, they were the original ones from new. SJ sell them, or a repro of it for about 150 plus vat, merlin motorsport sell them at 170plus vat but not sure if they are genuine or repro.