DanR

Found you one. At this boost level they become insane. But if properly mapped can be docile enough to give your grandmother. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2004-mazda-mx-5-se-nb-series-4-manual/SSE-AD-13688793/?Cr=0

Yes, I'm interested in the alternative control module link also. Thanks.

Do you want standard or something to modify?

There are four generations of MX5's now. For oil, the handbook or google is the best guide. Here in Sydney the typical lowest temperature is around 5 deg in winter so 10w/40. I use Penrite full synthetic, which has a higher zinc content but maybe illegal in other countries. As for the timing belt, they have a life of around 150,000 kilometres. The motor also is of the non-interference type. So if it breaks there won't be a fight between the pistons and valves for the same space. Water pumps failure can happen and is a relatively quick fix.

Love my Lotus but was so impressed by the MX5 on car runs I had to get one. (Upgraded turbo Mazdaspeed, SE in oz.)

Here's a good video of how obsessive they can be.

There's an excellent book "Mazda MX5 Miata" by Liz Turner. It relates the gestation of the MX5. Basically it was a "skunk works" team in the US design studio, who were inspired by an American journalist Bob Hall, to build a sports car. The team were led by an engineer Toshihiko Hirai and did a lot of work in their own time and without the knowledge of their masters in Japan. Hirai had a Lotus Elan and used that as their inspiration and target for driving prowess. The emphasis was on balance, driving enjoyment and enthusiasm over power. Thus the upper and lower control arm front and rear, the "power frame" (often mistaken as being an Elan style chassis) which connects the engine/gearbox and diff and lots of other niceties. They found with the power frame, the drivetrain was a locked unit reducing wind-up and release which makes for sweet gear shifts and a positive throttle to drive wheel reaction. The team also adopted Colin Chapman's principles of light weight and chassis rigidity. The soft top is probably the most perfect example of being simple, quick to raise and lower and work properly keeping the rain out. Here in oz, we got two versions of turbos, a local factory effort, the SP, and the limited edition Japanese Mazdaspeed model. With turbo upgrades both can punch way above their weight on the track and can be a weapon on back roads.

Won't work for cold start if the car has SU carbs.

If they're glued with silicone soaking for a few days in kerosene softens and relaxes the bond. That's how I separated my S4 tail lights.

Long ago, in a sea far away this was part of the British fleet. And one of her carriers under attack. Didn't sink.

An aussie test of proper drivers' cars with rwd. https://www.whichcar.com.au/reviews/comparisons/lotus-emira-vs-bmw-m2-vs-chevrolet-corvette-vs-toyota-supra-comparison-review-the-new-old-school?fbclid=IwAR2oSPK-8rdLYmPI4t2ar6al-pap2pjPfdxBuC4FDtCA4_gCPYRLu_DGwGE

Gas struts with too high a pressure can cause problems.

And 5 minutes later...

Right now I'll say this 288GTO, but in 5 minutes it'll be... There's just too many beautiful cars out there.

Check the rear chassis bobbins. If they're busting out of the fiberglass chuck them and repair with new fiberglass and plates or big washers on both sides of the fiberglass. Also check the bolts attaching the chassis to the bulkhead behind the seats. They tend to become loose.