Handbrake help !

[M D E]

Has anyone got any tips on getting the handbrake to hold ? ...

 

Cannot get the handbrake to hold even though :

 

Both rear caliper's just been refurbished

New pads

Disc's O.K.

Handbrake adjustment taken up so 3rd click is fully on

 

Still no luck.......

[jonwat]

Both rear caliper's just been refurbished

New pads

Disc's O.K.

 

There's only the cables left, with them disconnected from the calipers does the handbrake lever lift & drop easily & smoothly?

[M D E]

Thanks going to try this on Monday ...fingers crossed is something simple...

[Qavion]

Handbrake adjustment taken up so 3rd click is fully on

 

 

It was my understanding that this may not necessarily be a good thing. According to the manual:

 

"It is a feature of the Bendix handbrake mechanism that a large amount of handbrake lever travel is required in order for the handbrake to work efficiently and for the automatic adjustment to function".

 

With the brake fully off, you are supposed to ensure that the distances between the cable abutments and the caliper levers on the brakes are as specified in the manual (diagrams provided in the manual). 

 

It may not be related to your issue, but I wasn't sure if you were aware of this/

 

Cheers

Ian.

[eeyoreish]

 

With the brake fully off, you are supposed to ensure that the distances between the cable abutments and the caliper levers on the brakes are as specified in the manual (diagrams provided in the manual). 

 

 

Can anyone tell me what specific distances from cable abutment to caliper levers are specified in the manual (Bendix calipers)?

 

Changing my chafed handbrake cables at the weekend and I want to have the best chance of getting the adjustment right first time!

[Roy Lewington]

Distance for cable to caliper lever is RH 65mm, LH 50mm. This is measured from the inside of the L shaped bracket where the cable exits and the point where the cable goes into the caliper lever (ie not the nipple side). Having said all that I don't think that is the important point. Ian is right about having plenty of travel at the handbrake lever. The important thing at the caliper is that the caliper lever must be fully off. It must be still fully off when the handbrake cables have been connected and adjusted. Too tight and it will start to pull the lever away from its stop.

With the cables disconnected put an adjustable spanner or a metal tube onto the caliper lever. Pull it on, if it locks the disc problem must be handbrake or cables. If it doesn't lock the disc then you have a caliper problem. Workshop manual advises to ensure that the piston is fully screwed in along the handbrake adjuster mechanism and then positioned with the piston slot parallel with the 2 support wings and the groove toward the bleed nipple side. Regards Roy.

[eeyoreish]

Great, thanks Roy, that's really helpful.

At the moment my cable adjustment seems fine then but I need to replace both cables as both casings are broken so it won't be long before they start to seize. After carefully measuring everything at both ends I noticed that the threaded length at the handbrake end is different on the new cables from SJ than on my originals , hence I'll need to adjust them both up from scratch...

Just one point on the caliper pistons... I replaced the caliper seals but I've only wound the pistons down sufficiently to allow the disc to go between the pads. Do I need to wind it right down as far as it will go or have I basically just 'pre adjusted' out some of the handbrake adjustment (ie it's fine)?? I've already got the slot positioned correctly relative to the bleed nipple.

There's still time to make any adjustments required as I'm currently wrestling with the lower link stud before I can put the RH caliper back on

[Roy Lewington]

Sorry I don't know the answer to that-------but if you do wind them right down and allow them to adjust automatically you can't be any worse off.  Good luck Roy.