Roy Lewington

Try this, truly amazing super-glue that works. TREE FROG OILY GLUE.

I've had the bent rim repaired. They did a great job so I am mobile again. I would still like to replace it if possible so if anyone out there has one (or a pair) it would be much appreciated. Thanks Roy.

Need some help here. Following pot-hole damage I am trying to replace a bent rear rim. Tried all the usual suspects (7 at last count) plus a few breakers but no luck so far. The experts assure me that my rim can be repaired and even welded if it cracks but I would prefer to replace it if possible. If anyone out there has one (or even a pair) they are willing to sell perhaps you could let me know. Thanks Roy

OK, now I've seen your workshop it all makes sense (sorry if I was a bit rude). Car looks great it would be nice see it back on the road. Regards Roy.

I'm sorry, I'm having a bad day and feeling a bit grumpy. You've had a car for 4 years that you can't get to run--------but you reckon you have the technical expertise to slot in an SE engine, no problem. Good luck with that. Roy.

If you are not sorted this the belt on my 1988 x180 (910 engine): Gates extra service 6462 EXL AVX 13x800La 192BE

Iain Tyrrell, this guy is a legend. I think we are missing the point here. It is not about how to start your particular engine. Basically what he is saying is spin the engine over 5 or more revolutions to get oil pressure and circulation throughout the engine and don't allow excess neat fuel to flood the bores of a cold engine. How you do it is up to you. It is very easy to wire a separate push button switch direct to the starter solonoid meaning you can crank it without ignition. The same can be achieved by an on/off switch to the ignition coil which could also act as an anti-theft device. Roy.

I appreciate that the blue belt is superior. It was just a personal preference I didn't want one because, well,-----------it was blue. I don't think they do it in black.

There are plenty of additives on the market (e.g. Ethanolmate) whose claims are quite impressive. 250ml treats 250 litres. No idea if they work.

I heard the same. Esso 99 octane, although it has an E5 sticker on the pump doesn't contain any ethanol.

I've done a few cambelts on my X180 and this is how I do it. It's been mentioned before but stands repeating. Line the marks up to check all is well. Slowly turn the crank whilst cutting the belt in half longways with a sharp Stanley knife. Remove the cut half. Slacken the tensioner and half push on the new belt. Cut the rest of the old belt off and push the new one fully on. Tension and check the marks. Job done apart from the annoying requirement to drain off some of the coolant and disconnect hoses. Roy.

Cambelt is due for a change. It was a Lotus belt fitted Feb 2018 and has done 3000 miles. So what are the current change recommendations? There seem to be plenty of belts available going from £45 to well above £100. Lotus and non-Lotus. I do not want a blue belt on my car. 'Lotus Bits' advertise a German-made belt and I quote 'Made from the same HSN material as the OEM Lotus one, allowing generous change intervals potentially as much as 50000 miles'. So what is the current advice. My gut feeling is to go with a genuine Lotus belt and change it every 4 years. Any thoughts? Roy.

I blame the NHS---no longer fit for purpose, good job you haven't got cancer. This country is in a mess. Enjoy what you can while you can but please keep helping the forum with your excellent advice and help. Good luck Roy.

I think there is a slight biased edge on the sealing ring. maybe it's in the wrong way round. Just a thought.

My X180 Starting from cold, full choke, no pedal. Starts and idles (lumpy) until I can pick it up on the throttle. Choke returned as soon as possible. Warm or hot, a bit of throttle, starts first time. I would guess the service does not involve anything on the distributor so remove cap and clean, especially the pickups for each ht lead. make sure all ht leads are pushed firmly home. Check the ignition advance be twisting the rotor arm on the shaft against the springs. Check the vacuum advance by sucking on the tube. Roy.

I replaced mine with an alloy job from SJS. Light and very efficient. A lovely piece of kit, expensive but worth every penny--oh every pound actually. Roy

Oil Temp. I fitted a sump plug from Matt Lewis Racing (Dorking) which takes a temp. probe. Probe thread is 1/8th npt although I think an M10x1.0 is supposed to also fit. Plenty of gauges online, I fitted a KOSO unit under the dash which is easily removable if a future owner didn't like it. Works fine. Roy.

A complete waste of time and money. Trying to sell the idea to petrol heads is difficult. Maybe you should take up knitting. Roy.

OK Phil thanks for your advice, bin it I will. Not worth taking a chance on. Roy.

Looks like Phil has the answer here, needle crystals. I did put some in a metal dish in boiling water for 5 minutes but no change. I guess if Mobil put a warning on the container that this could happen you probably wouldn't buy it. Just to be on the safe side I have drained it off. On a slightly different note the oil I drained and filtered looks good again. Should I use this in my daily run-around or is it no longer a 'complete oil' with these crystals missing? Roy.

So there I am changing the oil in my Esprit, pouring it slowly into a smallish funnel to avoid any spillage. Having poured in about 2/3rds of the container I noticed some residue and saw crystals trapped in the funnel. I filtered some of the remaining oil and the pictures show about half of what I recovered. Compressed between thumb and finger the crystals feel like grit and do not seem to break down. This was a previously purchased new sealed container with a made date of 01/12/16. I am very disappointed to have poured this stuff into my engine, disappointed that it could have damaged my engine had I not spotted it and quite annoyed (apart from the cost) that I have to do the whole job again (not with Mobil). Did this pass quality control? If so a bit of a concern. Is this a feature of additives in full synthetic oil separating over time? If so a big warning should be on the container. Surely oil should not degrade in 5 years. Mobil, an American Company, has proved very difficult to contact in the UK. Phones not answered (one UK 0800 number had me talking to a person in Czechoslavakia), email addresses no longer in use and not monitored. When I did manage a conversation the mantra was basically 'take it back to where you bought it'. Not really the answer as it clearly left Mobil with this problem. I did fire off an email (with pictures) to their Techdeskeurope and what did they say? Absolutely nothing, no reply. I also emailed Customercare who acknowledged receipt (auto response), but no reply from them either. In a lot of years of oil changing I have never come across this before. I think in this case I was unlucky. The thought of having to filter fresh oil seems faintly ridiculous.

I have used Evans Waterless Coolant to great effect. Ok it is expensive but how much is no corrosion worth? Also it doesn't boil, it doesn't freeze, no pressure on the hoses, no corrosion, no problems in todays heavy traffic, it never needs changing. What's not to like? Roy.

Count me in if it's Newhaven... Roy OK didn't get to page 4. Next time maybe.

Workshop manual for my 1988 Stevens X180 turbo gives a charge for refrigerant 12 of 1.4kg (3lbs). The quick check procedure using the sight glass advised: Continuous bubbles ------- system low on charge Sight glass clear for more than 45 seconds after switching off before foaming and settling away from glass--------system overcharged Foams and settles away from sight glass in less than 45 seconds after switching off-------system correctly charged

I would use epoxy resin---much stronger. I have used West Epoxy Resin on boats with great results. Roy