S1 Project car - part 2 - the continuation

[Lotusfab]

If anyone would like to see the car I'm planning on taking it to Brooklands on 24th July retro jumble and car show.  Would be good to see some other S1/S2/S2.2/S3 cars there also to hold up the Lotus side, anyone coming? ( subject of course to any Lotus issues such as fires etc!) You don't need to book just turn up.

[Paul Coleman]

11 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Have been reading previous articles. Positives tubular - more power, looks nicer (although you can't see it), doesn't corrode.  Negatives - gets hotter, modified brace, more expensive, not original, problems fitting. I think on balance I may go for the stainless system fitted to the cast iron manifold. Thes no right or wrong but I feel on balance it will be a lot of haste for little benefit . Judging by everything else it won't fit and will need welding.

Will post some pictures when it's in and devise an installation method as a guide. iIf anyone else has a fitting method that works please can they let me know before I spend weeks at it! Thanks.

I have the full ss exhaust from SJ and it didn't need modifying at all. The original exhaust manifold was renowned for cracking and mine had cracks where it bolts to the head. Is your manifold perfect?

[peteyg]

14 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Have been reading previous articles. Positives tubular - more power, looks nicer (although you can't see it), doesn't corrode.  Negatives - gets hotter, modified brace, more expensive, not original, problems fitting. I think on balance I may go for the stainless system fitted to the cast iron manifold. Thes no right or wrong but I feel on balance it will be a lot of haste for little benefit . Judging by everything else it won't fit and will need welding.

Will post some pictures when it's in and devise an installation method as a guide. iIf anyone else has a fitting method that works please can they let me know before I spend weeks at it! Thanks.

Do they do an SS system to fit the cast manifold? The only fiddly thing about fitting is doing the manifold nuts. Some need tightening from on top of the car and some from underneath. A stubby 1/4" socket set works well and you may need to chop an spanner in half to make like easier on some of the nuts. Next fit the centre pipe/silencer to the manifold and then attach the rear silencer. 

[GTK]

Mine has a SS system south of the original manifold. It's made by GES.Thing is they seemed to be out of business last year when I asked about them on here, but now that I check things seem to have changed - although I can't get a phone number for them. Have a read here if you're interested: 

 

[Lotusfab]

Yep there a full stainless S1 system sold by S and J. No cracks as far as I know but will run the borescope over it just in case. Thanks Pete for the fitting advice, sounds like another fun job! 

Paul, did you have the cross brace and did the tubular bit bolt on without needing adjusting by bending?

[Paul Coleman]

22 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Yep there a full stainless S1 system sold by S and J. No cracks as far as I know but will run the borescope over it just in case. Thanks Pete for the fitting advice, sounds like another fun job! 

Paul, did you have the cross brace and did the tubular bit bolt on without needing adjusting by bending?

Not sure what cross brace you're referring to?

I didn't have to touch the exhaust it just bolted straight on.

[Lotusfab]

The crossbrace is the bolt on bar sitting just over the exhaust, believe the early S1 may not have had it? Lucky if you want a tubular exhaust system, else you have to buy a modified one. Are you coming to Brooklands on 24 th july?

[Paul Coleman]

No I don't have that brace. What's it for exactly?

No, I'm not coming to brooklands on the 24th I'm going to a Mini meeting with my Daughter.

[Lotusfab]

Some form of chasis stiffening? There seem to be a lot of extra strengthening bits after the early cars, like the bulkhead side tubes. May beca chasis expert might have a technical reason?

[Paul Coleman]

Don't think I'd need that as I replaced the top two tubes on my chassis with 4mm thick steel. I don't get the resonance at around 60mph that a lot of owners complain about

[GTK]

31 minutes ago, Paul Coleman said:

 I replaced the top two tubes on my chassis with 4mm thick steel. 

Oh lets see! 

[fellow Mini lover here too]

[Lotusfab]

Have ordered the stainless S1 system for £350 from S and J, excluding the tubular exhaust manifold. Have also ordered the correct gearbox exhaust plate mounting stud. Will fit it over the next few days.

Got the rear valance gear damage repaired by an outstanding chap Called Rob Lunniss at smart refine Horsham. If anyone needs any rectification work he's the man. He was highly recommended and deservingly so. There's not many people I would allow to work on my car!

Will attempt to fibreglass the new millboard today so it can take all the weight of the five relays. Pictures to follow.

[Lotusfab]

We'll have done the Mill board. Fibreglass bonds really well to it. Just as I did the glove box the Millboard back has three layers! Will drill and fit the five relays tomorrow. Spire clips on the top, the Millboard tucks under the body lip and secures through the two holes. The bottom bolts through the lower body. The relays will be much easier to access. I thought originally the motor wire went through the hole, but having thought about it, I think the hole is simply a finger hold? I'll get to the end of this one day, I hope!

This keeps me going!

[Lotusfab]

Finally one of the Millboards done! Lot of work, but it does look better.

[Lotusfab]

Fitting new stainless exhaust today. The exhaust brackets are 57mm, you need two and jointing paste. The silencer has a smaller diameter than the S2. Which is good because there will be more spoiler clearance and the paint will not scorch! Hopefully it will clear the rear wheel correctly. Will refit the correct stud into the gearbox with loctiIte sealant. It all came from S and J. Here's the manual instructions for anyone who needs to fit the exhaust. My way of fitting it is to mark the rear bumper tailpipe centreline with masking tape, so they are in the centre of the rear spoiler cutout. Then ensure the base of each tailpipe is no more than 4 inches below the base of the bumper. A clearance if 1 cm minimum from the top of the silencer to the bumper then fit the silencer prior to the other bits. The tailpipes must be in this position to be central in the cutout.

[Lotusfab]

[Lotusfab]

10 cm is the maximum measurement for the tailpipe below the bumper, 7.5 would be better!

[Lotusfab]

Silencer on left is S1 right is S2. The S1 has a smaller diameter. 138 MM diameter S1, 150 MM diameter S2.

[Lotusfab]

This is why my exhaust was all wrong, a poor repair. Why do people try and repair things when they havn't got a clue?

And for my next problem, rear suspension joint?

Thanks Pete, set the rear shocks to 51 MM , so much better! The rear wheels are much closer to the correct camber they may be spot on just need to measure!

[Lotusfab]

Has anyone got any picture of the lower link set up. Looks like I will have to redo the bushes. The manual is totally different to the se up here, where are the spacers? Help please.

[Lotusfab]

Washer appears to be on therear side only according to lotus. Where are the spacers? 

[Rolls]

Check my thread. The washers in the middle are hardened.

[Lotusfab]

Hi Rolls, had a look at that. There's no way I'm cutting the metal off. There must be an easy solution? Am now thinking I should have rebuilt the chassis again while the body was off. Still I have fixed the exhaust and will replace the lower link bushes when I get some more energy!

There's only about 5 MM clearance at the tailpipe end of the silencer from the rear spoiler. Should be enough! The other end has much more. What an improvement when you have the correct parts! Though I was finished but none have to start again on the rear suspension! 

[Paul Coleman]

4 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Washer appears to be on therear side only according to lotus. Where are the spacers? 

The spacers are not actually 2 separate spacers it's a tube which fits inside the hub. It MUST be free to move and unless Dave freed it up it will almost certainly be stuck in the hub and unable to slide in and out as it should. The purpose of it is to take up any slack when you tighten the long threaded bar. If it's stuck you will crack the hub!! As somebody has already mentioned the single washer is hardened steel if you look in the parts manual. If you need to free up that spacer be very careful how you do it and put plenty of copper grease on it when you refit it.

[Lotusfab]

Hi Paul,

this is what I have.